Lost Expectations in Mt. Pulag
Benguet, Philippines | My humbling experience climbing the third highest peak in the Philippines showed me how life can be like at times.
Mt. Pulag National Park is the highest peak in Luzon and the third highest in the Philippines with an elevation of 2926.047 meters above mean sea level (9599.8917 feet). The provinces of Benguet, Ifugao, and Nueva Vizcaya can be viewed from the summit of this towering mountain. Mt. Pulag is believed to be sacred by different ethnic groups that inhabit the area.
The Plan
Climbing Mt. Pulag has always been on my bucket list. From the moment I saw photographs from climbers of the picturesque sea of clouds, I knew that I needed to see it for myself. So I made sure that this was going to be a plan that turns to reality — December 20, 2019, conquer Mt. Pulag.
I have trekked other trails before, although less difficult, so I was fairly confident in climbing the third tallest mountain in the Philippines. I also watched videos and read blog posts about people climbing Mt. Pulag. So, my mind was thinking, “How hard can it be?”
As the date of the hike comes closer, I checked the weather forecast, and it did not look well. We were hesitant in continuing but still decided to push through with the 2-day hike.
The Gear
Days before the hike, we did some shopping for what we thought was the proper gear for the job. We went to several ukay-ukay (thrift stores) and found good quality jackets and boots. The boots were actually from Decathlon which I strongly recommend for its amazing quality and affordability. Some of the things we bought online: headlamps, a multitool, raincoats, paracords, and whistles. We also did some grocery shopping for a few canned goods and trail food.
We brought two sleeping bags, a yoga mat, a tent that I borrowed, a hydration vest, a camera, phones, power banks, extra clothes (chosen specifically for layering), the stuff that we bought, food, and water. We placed them inside plastic bags before putting them inside our bags.
The clothes we had on were thermal pants underneath jogging pants, 2-layers of long socks, a long-sleeved shirt underneath a jacket, and another puffy jacket on top. We had gloves, bonnets, and neck warmers ready when we needed them.
The Trip
We took the deluxe bus going to Baguio City from Pasay City. The fare was P795 per person for a nonstop ride. It had reclining seats with a monitor for every passenger and a USB port for charging. The most amazing thing about this bus for me was the clean toilet.
We arrived in Baguio City early morning where we were supposed to meet the group we were going to climb with since we purchased joiner slots.
On our way to Mt. Pulag, we stopped and took photos around the Ambuklao reservoir. Ambuklao Dam supports a hydroelectric plant in the mountains of Bokod, Benguet.
When climbing this high of a mountain the authorities require a fit-to-climb medical certificate. It’s advisable to get one from your doctor before arriving, but we did not have the time to do so. No worries because tour agencies can help you get checked up on the day of the climb, and that’s what we did.
The next stop is the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR) Protected Area Office where every climber is oriented about the history and trails of Mt. Pulag. The four major trails are Ambangeg, Akiki, Tawangan, and Ambaguio — Akiki being the most challenging. We’ve chosen the Ambangeg trail, suitable for beginners.
Mt. Pulag is the only place in the Philippines where the Swiss flower, Edelweiss, blooms. The Edelweiss flower, which grows high in the Alps, is Switzerland’s national symbol.
The last stop before the hike is Ranger Station. Here, you can rent and buy food, clothes, and gear needed for the climb. There are two options when joining tours: stay at a homestay for the first day then climb up nonstop early morning the next day; or climb up to a camping ground on the mountain on the first day, stay the night there, then continue a shorter climb the next day. We chose the latter.
Ranger station is home to very accommodating tour guides and homestays. It was where we got to decide whether we need a porter or carry all of our stuff. We decide to get someone else to carry our tent and mat but we still carried most of our stuff — big regret.
The Ascent
The cold air, the view, the smell of nature — these are really going to get you pumped and feeling good and excited for what’s to come.
The trail started off with very clear skies and inviting weather. Terraces of vegetation captured my eyes. It was like looking at the photos in postcards but better. I couldn’t feel any exhaustion from walking or carrying an extremely heavy bag.
I felt amazing until the next part of the trail, entering the forest. There were trees all around. I could only see up to a few meters ahead. The trail was winding up and down, and side to side. Not seeing more than a few meters ahead really gets more tiresome quickly. In my mind, I kept on asking, “How far to go?”
After around three hours, we got to Camp 1 which is just an open kubo (hut) where we could rest for a few minutes. When you think about it, three hours isn’t that long but not seeing your goal ahead really gets in your head.
On our way to Camp 2, it started to drizzle. The trail got harder because of the slippery mud. It was definitely a wise decision to invest in good quality boots. Having company really helps when trekking. I tried not to get unmotivated by the exhaustion by talking to people. Also, it’s nice to get to know more about the people I meet.
Touchdown Camp 2. There wasn’t a view to be sighted. The fog covered the landscape in gray color. This was a sign that we hoped would not arrive.
Camp 2 was where we pitched our tents and get ready for the night. There was a place for number ones and number twos, a shed with holes on the ground. There was also a place for tour guides to sleep, a small, well-built kubo with supplies for them.
After getting settled in our tent, we had a bite to eat and took a nap.
The Night
As the dark slowly covers the camping grounds, the rain also blows stronger onto our tent. I suddenly woke up at the feeling of something freezing cold and wet on my back. Water was rushing into our tent and soaking our bags.
I went outside to try to find a fix for it but realized that the tent I borrowed was not waterproof. The clothes I had on were soaked. It was dark and foggy when I went out to the tour guides and asked for help.
They hurriedly helped us get our bags from the puddles inside the tent and gave us a spot in the corner of the kubo. It was an elevated room that kept us dry from the thunderous rain. We were still shivering despite changing clothes. Hot 3-in-1 instant coffee never tasted that good for me until that night.
After some time, more campers also joined us in the room. Turned out that water was also getting in their tent. We were packed inside that space like a can of sardines but the tour guides still accommodated everyone who went to them.
I can’t forget how cold that night was. I was not even sure if I got a second of real sleep.
The Decision
On the morning of December 20, 2019, it was still dark but hikers were already coming to Camp 2 for a rest on their way to the summit. The rain calmed down a little but was still very present. We needed to decide whether to risk the climb or go home. There’s a real risk to safety when climbing in bad weather, and there’s also no guarantee of a clearing, that the view will be one for the books.
We decided to push through to the peak — mainly because of the stubborn attitude “Andito na tayo (We’re already here)”. We got our small bags and had on more layers of clothes than the day before.
The fog was so thick that we couldn’t see where we might fall. The wind got stronger and colder as we went higher. The tip of my nose and chin started to feel numb. But our tour guide was just slippers, pants, and a thin raincoat over his hoodie.
He was a local and believed that the mountain was sacred. For there to be a clearing, you must not be loud. Respect the peace and quiet on the mountain, and the mountain will respect what you’re asking for.
We did not talk much on the way up hoping that all of the steps we took were going to be rewarded.
The Peak
Nine thousand six hundred feet — that’s how high we were.
Upon reaching the summit, there was no sea of clouds, no majestic view of mountain tops, no sunrise over the horizon — just fog.
The wind was still blowing numbing cold air. People would crouch down to hide behind the bushes from the intense wind.
We tried to take photos under those conditions but we knew that we couldn’t stay long.
Going up is just half of the trip, and we can’t predict how good the weather is going to be on the way down.
The Lesson
We managed to get back to Camp 2 safely to get our belongings. One of the tour guides there told me that tent we put up, the tent that I borrowed, was actually a beach tent which was why it did not give any protection from the rain.
On the way back to Ranger Station, my mind kept on thinking if it was worth it. I decided to go to Mt. Pulag because I wanted to experience that majestic view on the summit, but we were there and it did not happen. My mind was dazed as we walked back down the trail we took that could have led to one of the most memorable panoramas my eyes… never saw.
Going back on the steps I’ve gone through on the way up, I thought about the conversations I had with the people I met, the scenery I rarely see every day and the feeling of hope I felt in reaching the peak. I’ve lost my expectations in Mt. Pulag but gained humility and motivation to persevere.
I had taken the opportunity to climb, but the timing was off. But that doesn’t mean I won’t try again. It means that next time, I’ll be smarter with planning and decisions, and hope that timing will be on my side.
This humbling experience showed me how life can be uplifting then suddenly underwhelming sometimes. But the important thing is that I’ve learned from this adventure, and I will still be keeping this one for the books.
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