Abrusco: Tuscany’s Endangered Grape
Sangiovese is the first grape which springs to mind when we think of Tuscany. Wines such as Chianti, Brunello and Tignanello are a few classics which we know and adore from the region. But one Tuscan grape has been left behind and is on the verge of extinction, Abrusco.
Origins
Abrusco is a red cultivar that derives its name from the Latin word “Lambrusco”, meaning “wild vine.” During the 1500s, Italian agronomist, Giovan Vettorio Siderini remarked that the Abrusco is often blended to enhance the red colour of wines in Tuscany.
The grape cultivar is close to extinction, and in her book “Wine Grapes,” Jancis Robinson states that there were 6 hectares of vine planted in Tuscany. Those statistics were from a census in 2000, so who knows what it is at two decades later. I asked a dear friend and winemaker in Tuscany for more information on Abrusco, and even they were unable to assist, making me realise how forgotten it has become.
Cultivation
Abrusco is a minor blending cultivar, authorised in several Denominazione di Origine Controllata(DOC) and Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) regions in Tuscany. The most renowned denomination in the region is the Chianti DOCG.
Abrusco is an excellent partner for Sangiovese, as it gives the wine an intense black-purple colour, and a well-structured dose of spice to balance the acidity from the berries. As Siderini taught us in the 1500s, Abrusco enhances a wine’s deep dark colours. It is for this reason that producers use it for blending purposes.
Harvest takes place around September, and the grapes then relocate to the cellar for crushing, fermentation, and ageing. The wines are crushed and kept with the skins for a period of seven to ten days. Next, they undergo fermentation for two weeks, in a temperature-controlled environment of 28 degrees Celcius. Upon concluding fermentation, the wine journeys into French oak barrels, where it will live for eighteen months to mature. After a year and a half, Abrusco is bottled and stored away to age for a further eight months. At the ripe age of 26 months, the wine has matured sufficiently to venture out into the world on its own.
The Taste
We have learnt that Abrusco wines have an intense dark purple colour in appearance. The only single cultivar I have had the pleasure of trying was from Tuscan Soul. On the nose, this wine presented a scent of sweet black cherries, while my palate enjoyed a hint of spice and soft tannins. Contrary to the typical Abrusco style of harsh, beastly tannins, a flavour I thoroughly enjoy. The optimal serving temperature is between 16 to 18 degrees Celcius.
Another Abrusco which may be worth a try is the Le Tre Stelle Abrusco Agino. I only mention it because authorities such as Ian D’Agata and Jancis Robinson, have previously reported that this is the only 100% Abrusco worth mentioning. I have not yet sampled Le Tre Stelle’s creation, but I would argue that the Tuscan Soul Abrusco is well worth adding to that discussion.
Food Pairing
Drinking a 100% Abrusco wine on its own is not for the faint of heart. It may be low in alcohol at 12%, but it is powerful. To maximise the enjoyment of an Abrusco wine, pair it with pasta, grilled red meat or aged cheese.
Ageability
My prospecting skills were lacklustre, to say the least, on my quest to discover information on the wines ageing potential. Information on Abrusco is few and far between, and an exact timeline for ageing was not attainable. According to D’Agata, monovarietal Abrusco does not age well, and cannot be relied on to outlive the Sangiovese’s or Nebbiolo’s in your cellar.
Abrusco is a cultivar which has fought off extinction and proved its value as a phenomenal blending partner. While I would not ordinarily recommend it from a taste perspective, it is worth picking up a few bottles if you are near Florence or Sienna, you won’t be finding this at your local Bodega.
