Addoraca: The Perfurmed Grape of Calabria
My journey into Italy’s lesser-known cultivars has led me to discover wines I have never heard of, nor tasted. During my career in wine sales, I have always strived to continue educating myself on everything wine-related, even if it does not pertain to the regions or wines that I sell.
My hunger for wine-related knowledge has guided me down a path of exploring cultivars that are rare or have been forgotten.
Next up on our journey is Cosenza, nestled in the South of Italy in the region of Calabria. The region is not the highest priority for prospectors seeking Italy’s finest beverages. But it is home to rare grape cultivars such as Addoraca. This is a grape that until recently had been forgotten.
Addoraca
Addoraca translated from the local Calabrian dialect into English means perfume. It is no surprise that locals christened the grape with this name, as it is aromatic and sweet in scent. The grape, like Acitana, is not listed in the National Registry. Locals may refer to the grape as Odoraca, but this is not recognised as an official name.
Addoraca is a white grape and is used as a blending partner in a wine known as Moscato di Saracena. The vines grow in red clay soil and are harvested in late September to early October. Post-harvest, the berries are laid out on racks to dry. Once the sugar is concentrated, and the grapes are raisin-like in appearance, they are pressed to extract the must. This is an antique method known as “Passito.”
Moscato di Saracena History
Moscato di Saracena is a style of wine exclusive to the area surrounding Cosenza. The cultivar’s name represents a time when the Saracens reigned supreme over the towns land. Saracens referred to people from the desert, in Jordan, Turkey and Syria. In effect, Saracens were Muslim Arabs. It’s ironic to think a group belonging to the Muslim faith would feature in an article about booze.
In any case, the invaders allegedly depredated the town and traded all of the residents at Sicilian and North African slave markets. But, this story ends well for those who love sweet wines. The Saracens left behind grapes fit for the perfect dessert wine. Moscato di Saracena is crafted from Guarnaccia, Malvasia Bianca di Candia, Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains, and finished with a hint of Addoraca.
Moscato di Saracena Producers
The new sweet wine on the lips of consumers in Southern Italy is not easy to come by and was unknown until a decade ago. I could only find two producers of the historic blend. FEUDO DEI SANSEVERINO and Cantine Viola.
Moscato di Saracena Taste
Moscato di Saracena is amber in colour with beasty sweet aromas, combined with hints of almonds, honey and exotic fruits on the palate. The finish is bitter, which cuts through the sugar content to complete a well-balanced dessert wine. It poses a danger to those, who can’t handle their booze. The wine is sweet and refreshing, meaning it disappears quickly. And before you know it, the 14% plus alcoholic liquid is out the bottle and flowing through your veins.
This is a wine that must be consumed young, and I would not recommend anything more than three years from the date of bottling. The ideal storage temperature for the blend is 13 to 15 degrees Celcius, but the characteristics of the wine are enhanced when it served at 18 degrees Celcius.
We have learned that you do not find 100% Addoraca wines. The only chance you will have to taste this grape is to enjoy a bottle of Moscato di Saracen. Since your local wine store probably does not stock this rare creation, you will need to travel to Calabria to experience the unique dessert beverage.
