48 hours in Paris: Your Perfect Weekend in the City of Light
From the Porter & Sail editorial team.
Paris moves at a different pace. A coffee break can morph into a long, sun-soaked reverie at a sidewalk cafe, and weekly shopping is a chance for Parisians to chat with their local boulanger, butcher and green grocer — with whom they’re on a first-name basis. Channel that spirit and take your time. Do as the locals and linger in village-like neighborhoods, each with its own character.
Friday: Rendez-vous in the République
4PM: Martin
Suitcases settled, it’s time to join the bobos — short for “bourgeois-bohème” — who frequent the area near République and the Canal St. Martin. It’s a trendy, youthful district, full of lively restaurants and bars.
Start your weekend with an aperitif, which is de rigueur in France. Martin is a local favorite for a celebratory, tipple. Join the hip local crowd and whet your whistle with a craft beer or something stronger. It’s a relaxed and friendly joint — comme à la maison — so don’t be surprised if you end of chatting with your neighbor.
5.30PM: Galerie Perrotin
Next, don’t miss the chance to explore a true Parisian gallery. Everyone knows where to find the old-world masters, so treat yourself to a more intimate, modern experience at Galerie Perrotin.
It’s credited with promoting the works of Takashi Murakami and Maurizio Cattelan early ion, as well as French artists like Sophie Calle and Pierre Soulages. This is the place to say you saw the next big thing before it hits, and will provide plenty of fodder for a forthcoming discussion over dinner.
7.30PM: Le Clown Bar
Make a reservation for an evening meal at Le Clown, with beautiful interiors and some of the best Gallic grub in town. Japanese chef Sota Atsumi made a name for himself with creative cooking at the forefront of the neo-bistro movement. The menu is all French classics — sweetbreads, pithiviers de canard, turbot with white asparagus — paired with natural wines.
10.00PM: Lavomatic
After dinner, enjoy a 10-minute walk via Place de la République to reach this hidden speakeasy. Step into (what appears to be) a compact laundromat, and push open the door concealed behind a washing machine — trust us — to climb the steps up to this intimate, atmospheric watering hole.
Snag a seat on one of the swings and sip craft cocktails with an equally in-the-know crowd ’til late.
Saturday: Majestic Monuments and Authentic Villages
9AM: La Régalade Conservatoire
Start with a beautiful breakfast bounty onsite at La Régalade Conservatoire.
This is no standard buffet, but rather, three different menus highlighting flaky croissants, smoked salmon, fresh eggs, hot chocolate crafted from melted cacao beans, and fromage blanc sourced straight from the farm. It’s a sumptuous start to the day.
11.00AM: Le Fumoir
Rain or shine, there’s no better spot for people-watching near the Louvre than Le Fumoir. Stake a claim on the sunny terrace to ogle the palatial monument, or, if it’s raining, interiors are no less grand.
Grab a newspaper like the incognito French celebrities who hang here, and enjoy a second coffee or tea in front of a bay window framing the Louvre.
12.00PM: Didier Ludot
When in Paris, go shopping. Hidden in plain sight just a stone’s throw away, the Palais Royal is a must-see monument with serene gardens dotted with fountains and cascades of cherry blossoms. The tranquil setting is surrounded by mosaic-floored arcades lined with fashionable boutiques.
Step into the treasure trove that is Didier Ludot, where in-the-know designers snatch up hard-to-find vintage fashion, or let your senses lead the way to Serge Lutens, a magnificent perfumerie for artisanal scents. A très French experience.
1.30PM: Dersou
Shopping bags in hand, hop a quick taxi to the 12th Arrondissement, where Marché d’Aligre, one of the city’s oldest markets, serves an authentic slice of village life. Packed with vendors, the lively street market is complemented by the Beauvau covered market, brimming with culinary treats.
Nearby, find Dersou. Japanese Chef Taku Sekine is a rising star in the Parisian restaurant scene, having worked under Alain Ducasse for years. While it’s best known for its multi-course dinner, lunch is a more accessible option to sample his Asian-inspired dishes.
3.00PM: Promenade Plantée
Belly satisfied, make the short walk from the Marché d’Aligre to this former elevated railroad converted into a landscaped walkway. It stretches the length of the 12th Arrondissement all the way to the Bois des Vincennes, a vast park considered one of the “lungs of Paris.”
Reach the Promenade via several access points (staircases). From here, enjoy lush gardens and a unique vantage point over the city architecture while strolling with local Parisians.
4.30PM: Butte-aux-Cailles Street Art
Paris is a city to be walked, but you’ll need to hop on the metro line 6 at the Bel-Air station to cross the Seine River for the next stop. Everyone rides the metro in Paris, and the line 6 sometimes emerges from underground to glide along aerial tracks for a scenic trip.
Between the Quai de la Gare and Place d’Italie stations, the 13th Arrondissement has created an open-air museum of huge street art murals by artists like Shepard Fairey. You’ll view them on each side of the train. Get off at the Corvisart station and continue with a stroll through the Butte-aux-Cailles, an atmospheric neighborhood that feels like it’s frozen in time, with buildings that double as canvases for works of art.
8.00PM: Guy Savoy
After a well-earned rest at the hotel, it’s time for a fabulous French feast.
Inside La Monnaie de Paris, the Paris Mint, splash out with a multi-course affair at Guy Savoy that’s worth the splurge. The Michelin-starred chef moved his fine dining restaurant into this Seine-side location in 2015. After a years-long metamorphosis, the Paris Mint has been transformed into a cool contemporary art museum, that’s worth exploring separately, too.
11.00PM: Tiger
It’s Saturday night and you’re in Paris — don’t go home just yet.
Instead, take a 10-minute stroll to this cocktail den outfitted in jungle decor, specializing in gin and house-made tonics. When it’s time to head back, take a taxi across the river to see the city monuments, like Notre-Dame Cathedral, beautifully lit up at night.
Sunday: Marais Magic, Delights of Saint-Germain
11.00AM: Musée de la Chasse at de la Nature
Sleep in: much of the city shuts down on Sunday when Parisians spend time and a long lunch with friends and family. Of course, it’s not all quiet — the Marais is bustling. Enjoy a morning walk through historic lanes lined with boutiques, flowering squares and aristocratic mansions.
Inside one of these 17th century facades, this quirky museum is dedicated to hunting and nature. Duck inside to take a peek at the exhibitions staged in regal surroundings.
1.00PM: Le Richer
Mingle with locals who flock here for elevated bistro fare in a light-filled, minimalist and mod space.
It’s named for the corner it sits on, where crowds inevitable spill out in amiable revelry.
3.00PM: Luxembourg Gardens
Post lunch, continue the theme of taking it slow on a Parisian Sunday. Lunch is often followed by walks in the park, and the Luxembourg Gardens is a firm favorite.
Stroll around the pond where kids play with toy boats, before sinking into one of the signature green garden chairs to watch the world go by.
5.30PM: Saint-Sulpice Church
A cobblestone’s throw from the Gardens, Saint-Sulpice Church is a landmark, graced with gorgeous Delacroix frescoes. From the fountain in front, you can admire the recently renovated facade and surrounding neighborhood full of chic shops.
Be sure to take a peek at the sculptures in the window across the street where Patrick Roger carves whimsical animals out of chocolate.
7.00PM: L’Avant Comptoir
For the final stop, join the patrons who pack this St Germain hang-out by serial restaurateur Yves Camdeborde (also behind the popular La Régalade bistros). Snag a space at the bar and tuck into charcuterie platters and shared plates as enticing as the vibrant crowd. Lively even on a Sunday night, L’Avant Comptoir is the perfect, satisfying cap to a true Parisian weekend.
From the Porter & Sail editorial team.
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