Sushi on your mind? Take a trip to Tokyo!
International Sushi Day is here (Tuesday, June 18th)! Yes, it is a thing.
Sushi has been around for a long time, and it is an important part of Japanese culture. Tokyo has some of the best sushi restaurants (and all around amazing food).
In a city like Tokyo, so vast and bursting at the seams with energy, it’s hard to know how to pack it into just a few days.
Which is why Porter & Sail turned to Annemarie Luck, the intrepid editor behind Tokyo Weekender, Japan’s longest-running, English lifestyle magazine, to do what she does best — curate the perfect weekend (sushi and more).
Friday: Dining and Drinking
1PM: Higashi-Yama
The ideal introduction to Tokyo’s superb cuisine and attention to aesthetic detail, this atmospheric designer restaurant serves dishes that are as tantalizing to look at as they are to eat. It’s also worthy fuel to begin your adventure.
3PM: 1LDK Apartments
You’ll need time to work up another appetite, so take a gander at 1LDK Apartment’s minimalist-style clothing and lifestyle goods for beautiful wares to bring home. Although, there is a cafe here too in case you could do with an after-lunch latte.
4:30PM: Kyu Asakura House
One of Nakameguro’s top draws is its long tree-lined river, dotted on both sides with boutique stores and restaurants. Meander down a bit before turning off towards Daikanyama. The historic Kyu Asakura House is an Important Cultural Property, and offers a rare look inside a home and garden from the Taisho period.
7PM: Seirinkan
Pizza for dinner in Tokyo may seem unexpected, but it’s a total must. Although there are only two types on the menu here (margherita and marinara), they never disappoint when it comes to flavor and crispy crusts. Passionate owner Susumu Kakinuma loves music (expect classical or Beatles tunes), and his wrought-iron decor is wonderfully balanced by glitzy chandeliers and bold red drapes.
9PM: Cabin
Cap the night by being able to boast that you’ve tasted some of the rarest Japanese whiskies. It’s a six minute walk along the river to the rustic Cabin, where you’ll cozy up next to the fireplace and pet the resident Shiba Inu pup while sipping on 21-year-old Taketsuru.
Saturday: Sushi, Shopping & Singing
7AM: Iwasa Sushi
The more sprightly traveler will arrive at Tsukiji Fish Market from around 3am to catch a tour of the tuna auction (not exaggerating!), but you’re better off sleeping in — a little — and skipping the haggling show. Instead, start at little-known Iwasa within the market, where you’re still guaranteed some of the freshest sushi in the city. Save space, there’s more sushi to come.
9AM: Tokyo Sushi Academy
Book this sushi-making course in advance to ensure the early morning slot. The 90-minute session at Japan’s premier sushi school lets you try your hand at creating Edomae sushi, the kind that became popular as a “fast food” in the Edo period (1603–1868).
11AM: Ozu Washi
Time to learn about a different kind of Edo tradition: handmade washi paper, used for everything from calligraphy to Nihonga (Japanese painting). Hop on the Hibiya line for 12 minutes from Tsukiji Station to Kodemmacho Station, and explore Ozu Washi’s three floors of exquisite paper and related goods. The store itself has a long legacy stretching back to 1653, which you can learn more about at the in-house museum.
1PM: Kazami
Back on the Hibiya line for 10 minutes, and you’re headed for Tokyo’s well-heeled shopping streets of Ginza. Reboot your energy with a bowl of sake lees-infused ramen at the quirky Kazami.
2PM: Ito-ya
If ever you thought stationery was uninteresting, this 12-story store might make you reconsider. Established 100 years ago, Itoya was renovated and reopened in 2015, and is filled with unique Japanese paper-ware, pens, art tools, and even a space for letter writing and sending. Bonus tip: a five-minute walk from here is Ginza’s renowned Kabukiza theater.
3:30PM: Cafe de L’Ambre
Time for a coffee break. This nearby kissaten (old-school coffeehouse), was founded in 1948 and is still run today by Ginza’s godfather of coffee, the centenarian Ichiro Sekiguchi.
4:30PM: Aman Spa
It’s already been a long day and the evening is but a puppy, so take a couple of hours out for uber luxurious pampering. Book a massage, then soak in a Japanese hot bath while taking in views of skyscrapers as day turns to dusk and the city lights flicker to life. It’s just three minutes on the Marunouchi line from Ginza Station to Otemachi Station. Afterwards, revitalized, head back out for a night on the town.
6:30PM: Mixology Salon
Ease into the evening with a Teatail, an original part-tea, part-alcohol cocktail created by master mixologist Shuzo Nagumo. Afterwards, head up to the rooftop garden for impressive nighttime vistas.
8PM: Anthem Bar
A few blocks down the road you’ll find Bar Anthem on the second floor of an unassuming apartment building. Slide onto a bar stool for another round and order the best G&T in Japan. The ambiance is so lovely, you might as well stick around to make a meal of it with a selection from the dinner menu.
10PM: Pasela Akiba Showadorikan (Karaoke)
Your vocal cords must be warmed up by now. This stylish karaoke spot stays open till 6am, so pick your singing partners wisely, and spend the rest of the night here.
Sunday: Art & Attractions
10AM: Lauderdale
Enjoy a slow Sunday start with pancakes or Eggs Benedict for brunch at this cutesy restaurant. Nab a terrace seat for sun and fresh air.
11:30AM: 21_21 Design Sight
Conceptualized by fashion designer Issey Miyake, and designed by renowned architect Tadao Ando, this museum’s visual delights begin even before you enter. Exhibitions are usually directed by designers and themed around “everyday life.” Take a quick lap around the adjacent lush and tranquil Hinokicho Park.
1PM: Nezu Museum
Continue your cultural education and walk 20 minutes to reach this art museum, housing a diverse private collection of pre-modern Japanese and East Asian art from industrialist and tea practitioner Nezu Kaichiro. The exhibitions are highly educational, and the large Japanese garden feels like a magical inner-city hideaway.
3PM: Sakurai Japanese Tea Experience
Prepare to be served top quality green tea by someone who spent 14 years mastering this art. Shinya Sakurai brings past and present together as he leads you through a traditional tea ceremony in a beautiful contemporary cafe space.
4PM: Urasando Garden
A 10-minute walk brings you to this cultural experience center housed in an old Japanese home built in 1952. Make your own matcha (powdered green tea), create incense cones, or simply marvel at the prettiness of it all.
5PM: Koffee Mameya
Right next door, Mameya is the reincarnation of Tokyo’s beloved Omotesando Koffee. For a quick caffeine fix, order an espresso or filter coffee. This is mainly for bean browsers.
6PM: Hedgehog Cafe Harry
Window shop down Omotesando’s main shopping drag on your short walk to this cute animal cafe, one of Tokyo’s wackier attractions. Although a little prickly, holding a hedgehog is surprisingly therapeutic.
8PM: Out
Delicious truffle pasta is the main and only dish on offer here. Served with a well-paired glass of red wine, and a Led Zeppelin soundtrack to boot, this dish is at once exciting and comforting — as every perfect Sunday evening should be.
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