We Left Chicago and Moved to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica
Two months ago I moved to Puerto Viejo, Costa Rica from Chicago. My husband lost his job, and I was failing pretty spectacularly at mine. When our youngest entered college, our rather far-off plan of finding a simpler way to exist seemed an imperative. We sold everything and transplanted our lives (including two 70-pound mutts) to the Caribbean- in Central America. When I thought of Central America, I never conceived of pale sand beaches, reggae, and creole sauces. Puerto Viejo is a town with a laid-back Jamaican vibe, and where you’re equally likely to hear Patois, French, or Spanish.
In the early 20th Century migrant workers from Jamaica and St. Kitts (as well as other West Indians) arrived on the southern Caribbean coast of Costa Rica to work the banana plantations. History played out in complex ways here; many Jamaican and West Indian families stayed. The island vibe is a dominant feature here and felt strongly today in the food, music, and language. While the rest of Costa Rica prides itself on homogeneity and Iberian ancestry, Puerto Viejo thrives because of its diversity. I know many Costa Ricans steer travelers away from the Caribbean coast because of this diversity, and that’s a shame. While many Americans are newer to Puerto Viejo, Europeans and Canadians have been visiting and expatriating to Puerto Viejo for decades.
Perhaps folks equate diversity with lack of safety? People interested in the question of Puerto Viejo’s safety (and that of its surrounding communities: Playa Negra, Cocles, Playa Chiquita, Punta Uva, and Manzanillo) should take note of national crime stats:
Puerto Viejo is in Limon Province, about an hour south of Limon City. Crime appears just as high or higher in other parts of the country. Limon City is a very economically depressed port town, and like all port towns, it carries with it a standard amount of sketch. Puerto Viejo is a full hour away via car.
Puerto Viejo sprouted between the lush jungle and the Caribbean Sea. Peppered along the main road (256) you’ll find cool boutique shops, exciting dining, and businesses aimed at the adventure traveler (canopy walks, fishing, night jungle walks). There are many Spanish language schools here, as well as opportunities to volunteer during a visit. Surfing is also a huge draw to Puerto Viejo; PV’s development into an international tourist destination has to be attributed (at least in part) to the surfers who knew about PV way back when.
My first visit here was about a year ago. As I was seated for my first meal at Koki Beach (think fun, colorful and open-air), I thought maybe I’d found a home in this town. Here’s the view from Koki:
There’s also the fact that while padding down the path from the beach to the beach bar you might find this, like I did:
…which is pretty cool.
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