Thinking outside the box is ok, going outside it isn’t
Suggested checklist when kitty is not using the box
There can be nothing more frustrating than discovering that your cat has chosen an alternative location in your house for a toilet to the litterbox. You might make a very simple adjustment and solve the problem, or you may need to take some time and implement a few changes. Definitely consider the entire list of potential obstacles — the fact that cats use these feline toilets we’ve created for them at all is such a blessing, but our role in making that happen is significant and we need to make it as desirable a concept to them as we possibly can.
Jackson Galaxy has successfully sleuthed litterbox issues for many a cat (and many a happy cat owner). Be sure to check out his tips and videos, they are invaluable. He has also developed a holistic formula (that I haven’t ever tried) for helping reduce stress that may be worth a try if you’ve done everything right on your checklist of good litterbox practices.
All tips here a highly recommended, but note that making too many changes at once (in any realm of a cat’s life) can cause stress and potentially curb your progress. So, stay calm and carry out changes gradually.
Health concerns: There are indeed physiological reasons cats won’t use a litterbox. So, if going to the vet is not the first action you take, please don’t experiment on litterbox adjustments so long that you let a health issue persist. A vet visit is highly recommended and can lay your mind at ease enough to face the dealing with each of the rest of these suggestions one-by-one.
Scent: Cats are adverse to strong scents, like lemon. Whereas we think this improves the odor from the box, cats may find scented litter prohibitive. Your best bet to eliminate odors is to scoop regularly and pass on anything scented.
Litter type: Cats can like or dislike litter for their own individual reasons. Since they ingest some level of it each day, I do highly recommend you research healthy litters (there are some made from corn, walnut shells, and pine), so that you start with what you know is safe for their systems. But you might buy one that simply doesn’t cut it with your cat. For example, while pine is a nice idea (renewable and smells nice), the pellets they make from them are totally unappealing to my cats and they won’t go near it! I think they are very large and hard pieces and not pleasant on the paws. Be prepared to try another til you get it right, but please start with the many many available healthy options.
Litter switching: Now, you may have a problem on your hands in that your cat is not liking the litter you’ve chosen. But switching often and abruptly is disconcerting to cats. When you make a switch, do it gradually by adding the new litter into the old a bit at a time. In my attempt with the pine litter, I had to abandon that pretty quickly, however, so do what you need to do.
Location: If your cat feels threatened by the noise of children, dishwashers, dogs, you name it, this can truly dictate where to avoid placing the box. Make sure the environment is calm and inviting. If you have moved your box recently and your cat was using it in a former location, put it back in the original spot and move the box gradually in the direction of your new chosen location. Every few days, keep it in sight of where it used to be, so they keep heading to the spot they know, but they are slowly adjusting to the switch.
Box vantage point: Oftentimes people wish to avoid the view of the box and point it into a corner or back wall. But this is not how a cat wants (and needs) to feel safe. Cats need to have full view of the room they are in so be sure the entryway is unobstructed and they can view the entire space.
Box type: Some cats really don’t like covered boxes. This is hard for us humans who really want to see as little of the box as we possibly can! But you may need to switch to an open box. But don’t give up entirely, just plan for a long adjustment period. Start by removing the lid and letting the cat get used to the open box for several weeks. Meanwhile, you can try getting your cat used to the lid itself in a very different way. One idea is to leave it on the floor with a cat bed inside and let your cat discover (and sleep in) this safe cave you’ve made. Another idea is to put the lid in a fun place you can play. While playing with your cat, toss toys through the empty lid and make being inside a fun place to be. In both cases, you’ve helped create a healthy association with entering the “tunnel.” If you’ve successfully done either, stop the sleeping/playing idea after the cat has enjoyed it for several weeks. And just let the lid remain untouched. Move the lid closer to the box and eventually try the lid back on the box again. This is slow (as changes must be for cats), but if you really want that lid, your cat may really make you work for it.
Number of boxes: Truly the box can be a contentious thing between cats. It is always recommended you have at least one box per cat, no less, so they can choose their own, if needed. Also, you’ll be scooping the same amount, but it accumulates less quickly when spread between multiple boxes and the whole experience is more pleasant for them.
Volume of litter: I, personally, hate having so little litter that any urine puddles on the box bottom rather than in the litter. I imagine any cat would also very much hate stepping in that! However, it has often been recommended that you leave only a few inches of litter in the box. Fewer granules means more stability for older cats. To hold their bottoms up as they use a box with a lot of litter can be challenging for an older cat (if they can push it aside and stabilize themselves on the box bottom, they may feel more confident). So you may need to reduce the amount of litter you place in the box. My rule of thumb on my boxes is about 5 inches. Many would recommend only 2–3.
Regular scoops: They’re so independent. They’re so clean. I can picture that they’d be most happy if they could run out and find a far-away spot to leave their waste each time. So, definitely do them the favor of scooping regularly; if they have to adjust to this construct of a cat bathroom, make sure you do your part and don’t get lazy and make it a big waste heap.
Declawing: There are a multitude of reasons this should not be done, but litterbox use is just another one. Of course, if you’ve declawed and are having issues, this point is moot. However, it is my hope to deter anyone thinking of declawing (again, I’d like to speak up on so many reasons, but just litterbox concerns here), because the pain from the surgery can prevent a cat from wanting to paw through litter and the fear of the box can remain forever after the first bad experience. I hope and pray you don’t consider declawing if you haven’t done so already. It truly has irreversible, awful consequences.
Best wishes with a smooth transition back to good box usage!
