VERB TRAVELS: Best Vacation Ever!
The Nashville Edition, with Adam Barrett
In early 2019, my partner (Sarah) and I took a plane to Indianapolis, Indiana. She had a work conference, I had some vacation days and wanted to sit in a hot tub — so it really worked out for both of us. Indianapolis was an interesting city, simultaneously not what I expected and exactly what I expected. I bought a great pair of sunglasses, got frisked by the Vice President of the United States’ security detail, saw a giant mural dedicated to Reggie Miller, and took my first ride one of those electric scooters that are popping up all over the world.
But this isn’t a story about Indianapolis, this is a story about when we looked at the map and realized it wasn’t that far of a drive to a place I’ve wanted to visit for as long as I can remember.
Y’all, this is a story about Dollywood and Nashville, Tennessee.
Well, I mean, eventually you’ll see it’s about a specific encounter I had with a man outside the Country Music Hall of Fame that has had a profound impact on my life. But I also want to talk about sleeping in a log cabin in the Smoky Mountains, recording a song for our cat (Margaret) in a box outside Jack White’s office, the best cinnamon bread you’ll ever taste, and what I learned travelling through The Volunteer State.
Shake it
When I said it wasn’t that far of a drive to Dollywood from Indianapolis, what I meant was it’s about a six-hour drive. Which I understand is not for everybody, but I had a great time watching the sunrise, pointing out a sign that announced we had entered the town where Kentucky Fried Chicken was founded, and singing along with a playlist I had made titled “Southern Comfort.”
We hit the road at about 5 am and pulled into Gatlinburg, Tennessee, around 11. You might think the first stop would be Dollywood, but in a surprise twist, you’d be incorrect. We actually began our day at the Salt & Pepper Shaker Museum.
You see, Sarah has amassed quite a collection of salt & pepper shakers over the years, so it almost felt like a weird bit of fate when we heard this place existed. It was exactly what you might expect — hallway after hallway of colourful shakers, categorized by theme. Animal shakers? Check. Regional shakers? Check? Shakers shaped like professional wrestlers? Oh buddy. There was even an entire wing dedicated to shakers shaped like cactus. It was truly weird, and I loved it. Sarah bought a shaker set shaped like milk and cookies.
Hello, Dolly!
From here, it was off to Dollywood and all things Dolly Parton. Dollywood is full of the campy kitsch I crave. There’s a Dolly Parton museum, you can walk through her old tour bus, and ride some serious roller coasters. My partner is not much for roller coasters, however, so we spent most of our time on the ground, checking out the musical acts from all over the world, and sampling the food.
In particular, we ended up in line at The Grist Mill to try what we were told is the world’s best cinnamon bread. We spent an hour in that line, talking about the state of the world with a New Englander who had relocated down south. The entire time, the smell of cinnamon bread was getting stronger, and I was getting hungrier (which should surprise nobody who knows me). Luckily, the bread lived up to the hype.
As we sat by a stream, tearing off pieces and watching the world go by, I thought, “Yeah, I could get used to this southern thing.”
Wildflowers Don’t Care Where They Grow
As the day began to wind down, we decided it was time to check into our hotel for the night — a spot we booked on a whim. From the moment we arrived, we realized we’d hit the jackpot. This was more than a hotel, it was a resort that made its way up and around the Smokies, and we found ourselves sleeping on the top of the mountain. Literally, on top of old’ Smokey. As you might expect, the views were absolutely stunning. All those country songs that wax poetic about the beauty of southern mountain ranges, I was beginning to understand them.
At night, the town below lit up the valley. And by morning, the clouds rolled in and the decision to call this range “The Smokies” made a lot more sense. It was a beautiful spot, one that we would never have experienced if we didn’t just roll the dice and take a chance on a place to stay. Dolly Parton once sang, “Wildflowers don’t care where they grow,” and in tribute, I definitely sang, “Nova Scotians don’t care where they stay” as we left the Smokies. I wished we had more time in East Tennessee, but Nashville was calling our names.
Take Me Out to the (Minor League) Ball Game
If you’ve read any of my writing on the VERB blog before, you probably know I am a baseball fan. Specifically, I am a longtime Chicago Cubs fan (which might explain my optimism). So when I saw the Iowa Cubs would be in town to play the Nashville Sounds on the day we arrived, it felt like fate. We bought tickets and set a course for First Tennessee Park, vowing never to let a schedule get in the way of a good whim.
Minor League baseball stadiums are always a treat, and I instantly fell in love with First Tennessee Park. Maybe it was the guitar-shaped video scoreboard; or the “There’s No Crying in Baseball” sign in right field; or perhaps it was the Dolly Parton mascot I met while wearing my Dollywood shirt. Who can say, really? All I know for sure is that line, “I don’t care if I never get back” from Take Me Out to the Ballgame, never rang truer. That said, I did not root, root, root for the home team (though I did buy a t-shirt).
Ghost Town
I’m not much for doling out advice, but if there’s one suggestion I always try to give people when they travel, it’s to look for a ghost tour. It’s a perfect vacation activity. You’ll get a little exercise after a lot of sitting, you’ll get the lay of the land, and you’ll get a chance to visit some popular spots with a lot less people. Plus, if you’re a fan of spooky things, it’s a fun way to hear some stories of ghouls, ghosts, and ghastly goings-on you might otherwise miss out on.
On our ghost tour, we learned about penthouse poltergeists, haunted honky tonks, and chaos at the capital. Along the way, I also found out that Tennessee was the 36th state to vote to ratify the 19th Amendment. In doing so, they played a pivotal role in giving women the right to vote in the United States.
The things you can learn walking around at night!
The Lights of Lower Broadway
When some people travel, they try to avoid the touristy things. I prefer to strike a balance. After all, I am a tourist, and I want to see those touristy things! So it should come as no surprise that we found ourselves on Nashville’s famed Lower Broadway on our first night in town. For those unfamiliar, Lower Broadway is a never-ending strip of honky tonks, juke joints, and cowboy bars, each showcasing a constant cycle of up-and-coming talent. Imagine the best side-of-the-road bar band in the world, now imagine 100 of those bands, all playing every song you’d ever want to hear. From the street, it’s a little loud and chaotic, but the deeper you make your way into the bars, the more enamored you become with the entire setup.
Just off Lower Broadway, you’ll find the Mother Church of Country Music and the original home of the Grand Ol’ Oprey — The Ryman Auditorium. The history you’ll find in the Ryman is remarkable. Over the years, it’s played host to a who’s who of musical icons. Elvis to Emmylou Harris, Harry Styles to Lizzo, they’ve all played the Ryman. It’s such a special venue. It’s also very difficult to get a ticket for a show here, which we found out, unfortunately. I guess that means we’ll just have to go back!
Country Songs Are the Dreams of the Working Man
This Merle Haggard quote is etched in stone on the side of the Country Music Hall of Fame, and I have to say, it really changed my perception of country music. Now, I’m not here to try and win you over and help you see the error of your ways. You like what you like, and that’s fine. What I will say, however, is that if you’re fascinated by music history and artifacts, you owe it to yourself to visit the Country Music Hall of Fame.
I saw gold-plated Cadillacs, endless walls of platinum records, some of the coolest Nudie suits ever to be stitched together, and priceless instruments used to record country music’s most iconic songs. I also saw the toughest looking man I’ve ever seen openly weeping while watching Johnny Cash perform “Hurt.” It was a really moving experience. And may I just say, it’s good to be comfortable with your emotions like that!
Within the same building as the Country Music Hall of Fame is Hatch Show Prints. For nearly 140 years, Hatch has been letter-pressing posters, playbills, and everything in between for venues and performers from all over the world. In fact, Hatch Show Prints designs between 500–700 prints in house every year. It’s really fascinating to watch them work. Of course, as someone who absolutely loves prints (and is quickly running out of wall space) I loved seeing everything they were working on in the shop. I also picked up a few prints to take home.
Marg Sleeps In
As much as I dreamed of touring the world as a rock and roll icon when I was younger, it’s probably time to admit that I’m not much of a musician (still not quite ready to cut my hair, however). That said, I certainly wasn’t going to pass up the opportunity to record an original song in Music City, USA. You can do just that when you visit Third Man Records and their refurbished 1947 Voice-o-Graph Recording Booth.
The Voice-o-Graph is no bigger than a phone booth and allows you to record about 2 minutes of audio on a one-of-a-kind 6" vinyl record. You can record anything you want, a short play, a stand-up routine, or even a simple greeting. In our case, Sarah and I decided to write and record a song about our cat, Margaret, titled “Marg Sleeps In.”
Or, at least, that was the plan before we arrived and discovered the machine was out of order! You see, the night before, there was a surprise performance by Jack White and his band, The Raconteurs, at Third Man, and the place was full. To pass the time, people started using the Voice-o-Graph and, well, let’s just say it had a long, hard day.
We were certainly crestfallen, but Sarah decided to explain our situation while I sulked and looked through the records. Turns out, the machine wasn’t entirely out of service, it just needed a little TLC, which the staff was happy to provide. Not only that, they also found a guitar for me to use while recording. Stepping in that booth was like a dream come true. A tiny, cramped dream come true I got to share with someone I love very much.
Oh, and the song? It’s pretty good! Be sure to request it on your local radio station.
Taking Care of Each Other
On this trip, I got to live a dream, see places I’ve always wanted to visit, explore a lot of fascinating history, eat some of the best food I’ve ever tasted, and see my face on a jumbotron. It was an incredible experience. But the moment that stood out, and that I continue to play out in my mind to this day, was a brief encounter with a stranger.
We were looking for a spot to park our rental car. Parking in unfamiliar cities can be hard. Signage isn’t always clear, if you don’t have an app downloaded it can be impossible to pay, and it’s becoming increasingly more rare to carry around change. All of these things came into play when I was trying to figure out the best way to feed a meter in The Gulch (a popular Nashville Neighbourhood). As I weighed my options, I was approached by a man asking me if I needed some change. I smiled and thanked him, but said I figured I could manage. Undeterred, he pulled out 75 cents. “It’s all I’ve got, but if you need it, it’s yours.” by this time, we had figured out the parking situation, so I again declined, and we all went on our separate ways. But it was such a kind gesture — one I kept coming back to throughout the day.
Nashville’s a pretty small city, but I have to say I was still surprised when we ran into this man again later in the day in another part of town. He recognized us right away and told us about a truck that damaged a car that ended up taking our spot after we moved. We struck up a conversation, and he asked where we were from. When we said Nova Scotia, he scowled a little bit. “That’s not Patriot Country, is it?” I admitted my sister likes The Patriots, but I’m not much of a football fan. That was good enough for him.
“Do you speak French?” he asked next. Unfortunately, I’ve lost so much of my French over the years, but Sarah’s a pro (Sarah’s always a pro), and said “Oui.” Then, just like that, he started speaking French to her. I’m still not sure what they were talking about, but it was a memorable moment. At this point, I realized this fella wasn’t just standing on the sidewalk, he was working. Specifically, he was selling newspapers to raise money for inmates around the State. Then, he shared with us that he had been incarcerated himself for eight years.
I didn’t ask him what he did to end up in prison because it’s not important. What really struck me in that moment was that this man was clearly, at his core, a kind person. Raising money for people who may be going through the darkest moments of their lives; offering strangers what very well was all the change he had so they could park their car. How many other kind people are trapped in jail for a mistake or a frivolous reading of a law that doesn’t factor in the spirit of the law?
My mind raced as a truly upsetting feeling washed over me. We made a donation and shook hands. Before we left, I told him how kind it was to offer us his change earlier, and how I’d been thinking about it all afternoon. Without skipping a beat, he told me to think nothing of it. “It’s important to spread love and help one another.”
I’m not being dramatic when I say that I think about this interaction every day. It has had a profound impact on the way I see the world and how I make my way through it. I’m a better person for having experienced it.
Consider people, and — more importantly — be good to them.
Vacation, All I Ever Wanted!
So, that was my best vacation ever. It solidified my belief that Dolly Parton is a gift to the world and that I’m probably not cut out for eating a meal called “Hot Chicken.” It made me fall in love with the South and started an obsession with really big hats. It was perfect, and I can’t wait to go back.
Also, a fun fact about me is that I love to make little rinky-dink vacation music videos. So please, enjoy these highlights from our trip to Indiana and Tennessee set to some music you can dance to.
Looking for more travel inspo? Check out our latest VERB TRAVELS article, here.
Adam is a Digital Content Strategist at VERB Interactive—a leader in digital marketing, specializing in solutions for the travel and hospitality industry. Find out more at www.verbinteractive.com.
