CRITICAL MAKING FINAL PROJECT
3D Printing on Fabric
Iterating Day 2
After the first day of testing, I found that mesh was the best material to print on. I also found that the tube I chose from initial iterations worked well in print-on-fabric format. Today, after a zoom meeting with Instructor RJ, we formulated next steps.
We chuck the idea of side bars, the clamps and the need for a digital calipers to measure the fabric, but we keep the idea of splitting the GCODE into two layers- top and bottom. RJ estimates that having a file that isolates the code to print below the fabric separate from the code that prints above, it will make it easier to pause the print-job, lay down the fabric. For one, diving into the GCODE will also allow us to remove the commands in which the Ultimaker 3 wants to level off at the start of a print (for the 2nd layer).
We also talk about taking a patchwork approach to printing long tubes. While there are printers that allow for long, long prints, the UM3 doesn’t have this ability, so we need to find a work-around. Patch-working will allow us to make smaller prints and control for the quality of each.
With every new design-solve, new problems pop up. In this case, we will need to find a way to neatly match together the ends of the tubes. We talk about sewing them together not in a neat grid-based method but giving it a wavy seam, to mirror the effect of the tubes overall.
We set the following goals:
- Define the geometry: make tubes of the right shape (start and end on x-axis). Establish the ideal thickness. Find ways to join them neatly.
- How to print these on fabric: the black fabric I have on hand (Halloween costume) is stretchy in one direction and but more stable in the other. Which direction to print?
- Find methods that will make it easier to print consistently.
Tube Test 1:
Goal one: define the geometry
I make a new tube definition that starts and ends on the x-axis. We hope that this will allow easier stitching together of several tubes to make one long one. We also hope the print won’t lift off, like it did on Day 1. ( I make the diameter of this print thicker, and this may work in my favor too).
I make one definition and copy it to the other side to test how the edges will match together. I tilt the edges to align them to the z-axis and it works- in theory!
I make a copy of the settings to the rectangular tube definition to keep these in mind.
Goal two: how to best print on fabric
I lay the non-stretch-side in line with the tube. This means the tube intersect the stretchy direction. I make a note of the parameters of the definition to be able to reproduce them another time.
Questions from Test tube 1:
# 1 : I still don’t know exactly when to pause the print to overlay the fabric. If it’s too soon, the fabric may end up intersecting the supports in an awkward way. And this could lead to equally awkward removals. I also may intersect the start and end bits, making it hard to join the two ends cleanly.
If we split the GCODE it will stop the print exactly where we want it. In addition, we can stop each print at exactly the same layer, creating intentional , controlled uniformity throughout the installation.
#2 removing the supports causes the fabric to rip. Is it because it’s altogether thicker? Or is it because I paused the printer at an inopportune time?
Test tube # 2:
I print the same tube again, hoping the ends will join cleanly. A few observations:
Comparing the two prints, the print intersects the fabric unevenly. The end points are both intersected by the fabric, such that joining them is ineffective.
Also, next time, I need to use the red or pink filament to improve visibility.
I glue both ends together- only one end works evenly — not the other. Why?
Results of the day:
- Define the geometry: This worked somewhat. I need to ask RJ why one end joined flush but not the other. What’s the trick? Also, making a thicker tubes preventing the print from lifting (at least I think that’s why).
- How to print these on fabric: the fabric worked well, even without clamps. I left ample space around each print for seam allowances. I’ll have to further define this as it comes to assembling the patchwork. Each piece should be equal. Another problem though, how do I remove the supports in the small space between the fabric and the tube without damaging the fabric? Do I need to lower the curve? Raise the curve?
- Find methods that will make it easier to print consistently. Sewing it together will present some challenges. I will need to practice on a bit without a print on it.
Sewing the fabric together:
This is the real challenge : how to sew mesh that is a large weave, without interfacing or other reinforcements? Also how to work with a slinky fabric that will slip out of my hands and the sewing machine easily? Lastly, how to make the wavy pattern RJ and I had talked about?
Theoretical method:
I’ll make a wavy stencil out of cardboard. I’ll match the ends of the print to this edge and cut. This will ensure a regular, even shape for each cut, and therefore each seam. I’ll do this to one end only.
Then I’ll pin the wavy end to the straight end. The other end will be straight. I’ll sew/ baste loosely into place to prevent the fabric from slipping or moving around. Then I’ll sew with a smaller stitch.
Before this I’ll glue the ends together. This joint will act as a base-mark from which I’ll know how closely to sew the seam to the joint.
Next steps
- Learn how to remove supports without damaging fabric
- Learn how to make the ends flush
- Confirm the best glue to adhere the two ends (Gorilla glue may be insufficient)
- Make a cardboard stencil with way pattern. Cut an un-printed piece of fabric. Sew it to a straight edge. Cut off overlap. Learn from it.
- Sew the test prints together with this new knowledge.
Quick post-script: Testing assembly:
Sewing looks surprisingly rough. It’s far better to cut the fabric clean and glue it. No need to make a cardboard stencil, unless I want a uniform tessellation. I used fabric glue but not sure it will hold (Also the gorilla glue for the filament did not hold. Plus, it dries white and not transparent).
