OnaSadya Across Kerala
Kaanam vittum Onam unnanam
“One must have the Onam lunch even if they have to sell their property”
Nothing describes the importance of OnaSadya like this proverb does; it’s such an integral part of Malayali culture that one cannot imagine Keralite food without picturing the iconic plantain leaf feast.
Onam is a harvest festival celebrated by people hailing from the south Indian state of Kerala. The festival itself spans over 10 days, with elaborate festivities such as boat races, dances, music, costumes, rangolis, offerings and of course, the feast.
The word “sadya” literally translates to banquet, originating from the Sanskrit phrase ‘sagdhi shcha me’ in Chamaka prashnah of the Yajur Veda, which roughly means that food should ideally be shared and partaken together with many people.
The ancient calendars always regarded harvest festivals to signify the beginning of the year, Onam is said to mark the New Year for Malayali Hindus. It is also the day the spirit of King Mahabali is said to descend from the heavens, to keep watch over his people and to ensure that they are happy and prosperous.
Sadya is an afternoon banquet, rooted in ancient tradition, usually comprising of 25 dishes or more, served on a banana leaf. A gathering of people are hosted by the sponsor to partake the sadya. The gathering is seated in a line and is served one dish at a time, in a clockwise order across the banana leaf. While consuming the feast, no cutlery is used. After the meal, during which the guest can always ask for more of a particular dish, the banana leaf is folded and disposed of. If the leaf is folded outside i.e., away from the individual, it is interpreted as a rude gesture indicating that they were not satisfied and will not be visiting again and is often only done during solemn occasions such as a funeral. If folded inside, towards the individual, it signifies they were happy with the meal.
There’s an art to serving a sadya; you must always start at the top left corner of the banana leaf and in a clockwise motion end at the bottom right corner. Chips and Pickles go on the leaf first and then inji curry, various kichadis, pachadis, curries, thorans, avial and kootans. A Sadya always serves red rice, along with sambar. The meal is ended with sweet payasams, followed by olan, rasam and buttermilk, to aid digestion of such a heavy lunch.
The huge variety of dishes served is to counteract the possibility that a particular dish may not cater to every individual’s palate, so no matter who eats from the feast, there will be dishes that gratify them.
Not all the recipes belong to Kerala; some have travelled across from Andhra, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu and settled themselves in God’s own country. Sambar was originally named in honour of Shambaji, second emperor of the Maratha Empire. The cook in the kitchens of the Thanjavur’s Maratha ruler Shahuji, attempted to prepare a dish by substituting moong dal with toor dal and tamarind extract for kokum. The Avial, a delicious medley of vegetables cooked in coconut milk, is believed to have been first prepared by Pandava Bheema, when he took up the chef’s apron in order to hide from his Kaurava brothers.
The Sadya has originally been a vegetarian affair, with the Travancore version being the most traditional and disciplined. Due to its nature as a cultural as well as a religious festival, the feast has been adopted by other communities who have adapted it to suit the local produce.
In Kochi, the inji curry is sweeter to add another layer of flavour, while the pickle is most commonly prepared with tender chandrakkaran mangoes. Curries sans coconut-like kichadis and pachadis are very popular. In fact, even Sambar is prepared without grated coconut, much to the horror of the northern regions. Parippu is not considered a side dish but is often the first kootan that is served on top of red rice, with a dash of ghee and salt. The chosen payasam is the dark, thick ada pradhaman or kadala pradhaman, as opposed to the overly-sweet palada.
Kalan, Erissery Curry and Kurukku Kalan, are not served in the southern parts of Kerala. Koottukari is a dish exclusive to the southern regions, and Trivandrum’s Tamil influence adds a twist to the original dish by adding uzhunnu vada along with the potatoes, onions flavoured with coconut milk; all other regions prepare the dish with ash gourds, pumpkins, yam and plantain.
Sadya expert Kannan, who is from the Kottayam district in South Kerala, said the number of sadya dishes prepared in the South is usually more than the number of dishes served for the feast in North Kerala.
In Thalassery and Vadakara, the gastronomical rollercoaster always starts off with a traditional appetiser, pappadam-pazham kuzhakkal made of a whole, ripened, boiled Mysore banana squished with pappadam and a drizzle of ghee.
Up North, in Malabar, sambar features first and is prepared with grated coconut while parippu is a side dish. Parippu is also prepared differently; in the Travancore region it’s akin to gravy made with roasted moong dal while in the north, it’s got the consistency of a thick paste and is made of toor dal. When it comes to desserts, people from North Kerala normally prefer Palada. The meal is often ended with buttermilk, which aids digestion.
The coastal region of Malabar may have fewer dishes but it offers something that defies tradition — non- vegetarian Sadyas. Malabar cuisine has Mughlai-Arab, Portuguese, British, Dutch, Jewish and French influences. In Kollam, fish curry, prepared from the fresh morning’s catch is essential to the OnaSadya in the region while in Kozhikode, the famous varutharacha chicken or chicken thoran, cooked in dry roasted coconut is a must on the Onam menu. Chicken curry and chicken fry are very common dishes in several Hindu households in the region. In Kannur and Kasargod, fish fry prepared of meaty varieties of fish such as pomfrets (avoli) and King fish (aykoora) are a hot favourite.
BC Bawa, who runs a hotel in Kasargod says that though most families chose to make non-vegetarian dishes part of their Onam sadhya, hotels still stick to tradition.
Credits: Kerala tourism
Another famous variation of the Onasadya is the VallaSadya feast at Aranmula Temple, part of an age-old tradition that originated in the feudal era. In the Medieval era, this temple was the meeting point of 51 feudal lords, who along with their oarsmen are believed to be servants of Lord of Aranmula and whichever devotee pleases and entertains one among 51 Feudal Lords, will be blessed. Thus, every year, two days mark the days of the Vallasadya feast, where a devotee sponsors a great feast, inviting one feudal lord (who represents one village) whose oarsmen come down to the temple in a snake boat to partake the feast. By entertaining the oarsmen, the devotee indirectly gains the favour of the Feudal lord.
After the boat races, the oarsmen sing Vanchipattu (boat songs) that praise Krishna and are welcomed by the devotees at the main platform of the Temple. As per ritual, the organizing devotee must serve anything that the oarsmen demand; each item is demanded through singing the Vanchipattu meter.
A strictly vegetarian affair, the famous feast of Aranmula offers nearly 60 to 70 items! The strict serving protocol applies to the VallaSadya too — the first item to be served is Theertham (water used to wash the deity), followed by Kalabham(holy sandal paste and flowers) and then by Thrikai Vena(butter offered to the deity)
The Sadya starts from the left corner, with 5 different types of upperi (fried chips):- Nendran (unripened banana), Sakara Varratti Yathu (Jaggery coated banana), Chena (yam), Pazham (ripen banana), Chembu (taro). Then Karimbu (stalk of sugar cane), jaggery strips, sugar, Aval (flattened rice), Malar (puffed rice), Kalkandam (rock candy), raisins and salt. Appetisers, pickles, brined items and other kootans, thorans and curries are served based on request.
The key highlight dish would be Aranmula Errissery, made of raw banana, black-eye peas and yam. It is believed to be a favourite of Emperor Mahabali and thus is an essential for every Onam sadya.
The main course is concluded with a final serving of rice made with rasam, followed by pradhamans (kheer). As an end note, buttermilk, Cumin water and Betel leaves are served, to act as both - a digestive aid and as a mouth freshener.
Currently, the feudal lords (Karakkar) have formed a Seva Sangham or trust. One can book this feast through this Seva Sangham. The minimum amount for organizing the feast will be Rs.50,000 for 200 people which can go up depending upon the number of people one wishes to feast.
The Grand feast on Onam and Ashtami Rohini will be organized by this Sangham directly as nearly a Lakh people attend. To partake the feast, one must obtain a ticket through the Sangham in advance depending upon the availability of open slots.
Kerala cuisine is heavily influenced by its conquerors and its neighbouring states, yet occupies a special place in South Indian cuisine. The OnaSadya is a perfect epitome of what Kerala can be — a harmonious melange of culture, religion and celebration, making it the meal of a lifetime.
