UP-32: Dastan-e-Lucknow
Mehka Hua Hai Hum Se Gulistaan-e-Lucknow, Hai Jaan Hamari Lucknow Hum Jaan-e Lucknow.
— Ashfaq Hussain Shauq Lucknawi
In the heart of Uttar Pradesh lies Lucknow, the city of Nawabs that sits on the shore of the Gomti river. The city is imbibed with the culture of tehzeeb (culture) and tameez (decorum), passed down over generations of Mughalai and Nawabi rulers. This essence remains an integral part of the Lucknawi identity. Having lived most of my life in this city, my memories are filled with luscious Dasheri mangoes, cycle-rickshaw rides, and trips to the famous Lucknow Mahotsav.
Lucknow is synonymous with a lot of things, be it finesse, flirtatiousness, or rebellion. What it stands for is refracted into its culture, architecture, and literature. Hazratganj, which is also popularly known as the heart of Lucknow, pulsates with its bustling crowds. It is named after Nawab Nasir-Ud-Din-Haider ‘Hazrat’. Having been the hub of economic activities in the Awadh of 1800s, its streets are still brimming with bookstores, coffee-houses, and luxurious brands. The pink and cream buildings of Hazratganj with its victorian style lanterns, form a contrast so striking against the evening sky, that you’d be tempted to go out for a walk in this old side of the city.
When it comes to landmarks, Lucknow is known for its Imambaras. The Bara Imambara, with its courtyards and corridors, never fails to bewitch the eye of the beholder. This mixture of Rajput and Mughal architectural styles, with a hint of Gothic influence, is a reminder of the Ganga-jamuni tehzeeb that the city encompasses. The Bhool Bhulaiya stands over its arched doorways and windows. This labyrinth alone has over a thousand narrow and dark passages with identical doors. With hundreds of entries and only one exit, it is close to impossible to not get lost in this maze without a guide. You must have heard people repeatedly say that walls have ears that listen to every sound that you create. In Bhool Bhulaiya, you get to witness the walls listening. Here, whispers uttered at one end of a passage, can be clearly heard on the other end; such are the acoustics of this complex structure. The tourist guide that accompanies you in this structure will tell you all about how the Imambara was a result of an employment scheme introduced by the then ruler, Nawab Asad-Ud-Daula. It is believed that when in the late 1700s, a famine had hit Lucknow, the Nawab had come up with a plan to provide employment opportunities to the common people as well as the elites, by recruiting them for the building of these structures. However, work completed during the day was demolished at night to ensure the availability of employment for the next day. As bizarre as it sounds, it did result in this strikingly beautiful structure. Legends also dictate that below the Imambara were underground passages that connected Lucknow with Delhi, Faizabad and, Allahabad. Apart from the maze, the Imambara also has the Asafi Mosque and the Shahi-Hammam-Baoli. The Baoli is a royal stepwell connected with the river Gomti. It is said that when the Britishers’ greed led them to invade the royal treasury, the treasurer Mool Chand Rastogi hid all the riches in the structure, and died in this Baoli along with the key and the map for it.
At a distance of about two kilometers from the Bara Imambara, you will find yourself on the grounds of the Chota Imambara. Also known as the “The Palace of Lights”, its Azakhana is lit with dazzling chandeliers from Belgium. This structure is a clear representation of the intricacies of the Nawabi style of architecture. The outer walls of its halls and doorways are engraved with Islamic verses. People believe that Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah wanted to build a watchtower as grandiose as the Qutb Minar; however, due to his unfortunate death, today, the incomplete Satkhana stands as a reminiscence of his unfulfilled desire.
As breathtaking the Imambaras are, they would be incomplete without the extravagant commemoration rituals that are witnessed here during Muharram. The liberty and passion through which Muharram brings together thousands of Muslims in mourning is like nothing that you will ever see elsewhere.
Probably the most exceptional feature of the architecture of the Nawabs is that they are built of Lakhauri Bricks that were made up of elements, such as pulses, lime, and husk, etc. I’m sure that it somehow adds to the emotional experience that these places instill in the visitors.
A two-minute walk from the Imambara will guide you to the Rumi Darwaza. This gateway to the Imambaras once used to be the entrance to the city of Lucknow. Adorned with Roman architectural features, the Darwaza stands a witness to our past glory and present pride. The carved flowers and its perching chhatri safeguard the city’s nawabi legacy. Just adjacent to the Rumi Darwaza stands the tallest clock tower of India, the Hussainabad Clock tower, or as the natives love to call it, the Ghantaghar. Lucknow reverberates with the chimes of this 220 feet tall tower. Its atmosphere is surrounded with chuckles of people heard from horse carts and camel rides.
One cannot talk about liberty and Indian independence, without mentioning the British Residency. This is one of the places where during the First War of Independence in 1857, while under siege, the British first tasted Indian rebellion along with lucknawi terror. During this siege, the Constantia, today recognized as the renowned La Martiniere College, played a vital role in helping the British residents break the siege. This college was built by General Claude Martin and is a breathtaking amalgamation of Indian, Persian, and Turkish styles of architecture. A short walk from La Martiniere will lead you to the Dilkusha Kothi. Situated away from the urban hustle, this Kothi exhibits an impressive English Baroque style of architecture. However, what once used to be a recreational space for the Nawabs and their visitors is now just a remainder from the ruins of war.
Apart from all this, the Charbagh Railway Station is a sight for sore eyes. This building has successfully captured history in its fusion of Awadhi, Rajput, and British styles of architecture. This red and white structure resembles a chessboard when seen from above. Its turns, domes, and underground tunnels are an attestation to its refined workmanship. Here, faith sits between the railway tracks of history. More than 900 years old, the Khamman Peer Dargah rests on platform number 1 of the railway station. Every Thursday, devotees crowd around this minaar to pray and wish for blessings.
The marvelous heritage of Lucknow is incomplete without any reference to its scrumptious Mughlai cuisine. When in Lucknow, head towards the 160 years old narrow interconnected lanes of Aminabad and Chowk. A visit to this city will always remain unfinished if you haven’t savored the Shammi and Seekh kebabs, and the Sheermal from the famous Tundey Kababi. This shop in Aminabad alone is around 113 years old. This city wakes and sleeps with Chai; the famous Sharma Ji Ki Chai is the perfect place to get some delicious Bun-makkhan and Samosas with a flavorsome cup of Kadak chai. At Chowk, the Awadhi architecture meets Mughlai cuisine. It is impossible to resist the famous Makkhan Malai, Kulche, and Thandai. Apart from this, you will find stalls of Chaat, Malai Paan, and Kulfi all over the city.
The markets of Lucknow are thronged with shops selling works of Chikankari and Zardozi. These arts of embroidery started here almost 400 years ago. Not only this, but the lanes of Aminabad are also packed with shops selling handicraft items and Nagras.
Lucknawi architecture borrows its soul from its centuries of diverse culture. Lucknow’s domes and minarets sway to the rhythm of its tablas and sitars. Standing on the stage of the Sangeet Natak Academy, I first fully understood the meaning of Rehaish while my body swayed from one Kathak mudra to another; it means home. The mushairas in this city are love affairs between Urdu, Hindi, and Awadhi. Sometimes, when the sunset blushes behind these golden minarets, you can still see Umrao Jaan Ada’s Lucknow.
The city is a ghazal of its own, which its people sing every day. From spending evenings at the Gomti Musical Fountain where people’s silhouettes come to life, to watching youth mingling with history at the Marine Drive, and sunsets sinking into the white marbles of the Ambedkar Memorial Park, there is indeed an undeniable andaaz to everything in this city. There is a certain charm in how the withered and rusted walls of the Imambaras stand tall beside the city’s high rise malls.
Muskuraiye aap Lucknow mein hain.
This city never fails to make you feel welcomed. When we say “aapka aur hamara Lucknow”, we mean it with our entire hearts. Legends say that Mool Chand Rastogi’s treasure was never found and remains hidden in some corner of this city. Come to think of it, maybe the treasure lies in its people, after all. The treasure is the Lucknawi heritage that we proudly carry generation after generation.
