Climbing the Central Pillar of Frenzy in Yosemite Valley

A sustained Yosemite classic crack climb (5 pitches of 5.9 Trad) in front of El Cap.

This is a popular route on the imposing Middle Cathedral peak. We showed-up on Friday morning and despite taking a longer and steeper approach by mistake did not encounter any other parties.

Sal led all the pitches as they were above my current pay-grade. Contrary to Fairview Dome which had a single 5.9 pitch with a few awkward moves before easing-up, this route made up “fight for it” the whole way and has a particular awkward/slippery first pitch.

Similarly to the Cathedral climb, there will be a before and after Pillar of Frenzy!

Middle Cathedral is facing El Capitan and let you admire the Noze route all the day
Approaching the base of the climb from higher-up and some class 3 down-climbing on lose rocks
At the base, with the left awkward crack and a zoom on “the Boot” and “Texas” flakes on El Cap
There is a transition out of the crack to the first bolts with interesting stemming. Then some sustained finger/hand cracks and a big roof
A small Chimney #1 with El Cap in background
The climbing stays intense with more finger cracks or a cool double crack that can be stemmed. Then Chimney #2 relatively straightforward except some trickly lay backing/mantelly moves to escape it.
Amazing view on Yosemite Valley on top of pitch 5
The rappelling route starting bolts were just hangars and as there was no other parties we went via the route bolts in three rappels. We got extra careful to avoid stucking any rope as the terrain is particular prone to it.




Trips & treks, kayak, packraft, climbing, mountaineering adventures around World

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Romain Rigaux

Romain Rigaux

Adventuring & Smart Data Querying |

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