Food Shortage Recipes: Culinary Adaptations in WWI Britain
World War I (1914–1918) brought unprecedented challenges to the British home front, with food shortages being one of the most pervasive hardships faced by the population. Many of these issues make an appearance in my historical fiction work, Roseleigh. In this time of British history, the war disrupted supply lines, conscription reduced the agricultural workforce, and the German U-boat campaign lessened imports. Therefore, the British government and civilians alike responded with ingenuity and resourcefulness to cope with the scarcity, leading to the development of many substitution recipes and creative culinary adaptations.
The Impact of Food Shortages
The British Isles, heavily reliant on imported foodstuffs, found themselves in a precarious position as the war dragged on. The pre-war period in UK history saw the importation of more than 50% of its food. For example, over the five years 1907–1911, the country only produced 19% of its breadstuffs, a staple in most British households. It was said the country had become “a nation of self-suppliers for the week-end only.” However, the U-boat blockade severely curtailed these imports, leading to drastic reductions in the availability of staples such as wheat, sugar, meat, and fats.
Bread, a central component of the British diet, became a focal point of rationing efforts. The government introduced measures such as the “ninepenny loaf,” a standard loaf of bread sold at a controlled price to ensure affordability. The government encouraged bakers to use alternative flours to conserve wheat, leading to the production of darker, coarser bread than the populace was accustomed to.
Certain types of foods, like pork and vegetables, for example, were less impacted. My historical novel, Roseleigh, discusses some of these. For example, the German Müller family run a restaurant in the fictional hamlet of Rosedin, called the Wheatsheaf.
The place was always close to full. Pork and vegetables, the main staples here, were unaffected by shortages, and the Müllers made much of their own food: sausages and cuts of pork, obviously, but also pickles, sauerkraut, and cider. Anti-German sentiment, it seemed, went out the window in the face of an excellent schnitzel, not to mention the homemade complimentary Kräuterlikör — high-proof alcohol infused with herbs and termed a digestif — at the end of each meal.
Government Initiatives and Public Response
Over the course of WWI, the British government launched several initiatives to manage the food shortage crisis. For example, the Ministry of Food, established in 1916, spearheaded efforts to promote food conservation and efficient use of resources. Public campaigns also encouraged citizens to participate in “Meatless Mondays” and “Wheatless Wednesdays,” fostering a sense of collective effort in the war cause.
In my historical novel, Roseleigh, the Müllers attempt to stay ahead of these issues:
“Papa’s frustrated. He’s been trying to create a meatless sausage with spices, pork fat, potatoes, and oats. Papa thinks there needs to be more meat rationing, so he’s doing his duty as a patriot. But he’s … not yet satisfied with the results.”
“I’m sure whatever he creates will be delicious.”
“Sure. But in the meantime, I eat greasy porridge for lunch.”
When the government introduced rationing in 1918 formalized the distribution of scarce resources. So essential items like sugar, butter, and meat were rationed, with each individual allocated a fixed amount. This system aimed to ensure equitable distribution and prevent hoarding.
Substitution Recipes: Creativity in the Kitchen
When this time in UK history presented cooks with limited supplies, they displayed remarkable creativity in devising substitution recipes. These recipes aimed to replicate familiar dishes using available ingredients, often resulting in inventive and surprisingly palatable alternatives.
1. Mock Goose
A popular dish that emerged during this period was “mock goose.” Traditional roast goose was out of reach for most households, so an ingenious substitute was created using lentils or breadcrumbs, suet, onions, and sage. The cook would then form this mixture into a loaf and bake it, providing a savory, satisfying dish reminiscent of the original.
Recipe: Mock Goose
- 1 cup cooked lentils
- 2 slices stale bread into breadcrumbs
- 2 tbsp suet or margarine
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 1 tsp dried sage
- Salt and pepper to taste
Combine all ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Then form the mixture into a loaf shape and place in a baking dish. Bake at 180°C (350°F) for 30–40 minutes, until golden brown.
2. Potato Pastry & Sweet Potato Bread
Wheat rationing led to the incorporation of potatoes into many recipes, including pastry. Potato pastry then became a versatile base for pies and tarts, providing a substantial and economical alternative to traditional wheat-based pastry.
Recipe: Potato Pastry
- 2 cups mashed potatoes
- 1 cup flour
- 2 tbsp margarine or fat
- Pinch of salt
In a bowl, combine mashed potatoes, flour, margarine, and salt. Mix until a dough forms. Then roll it out on a floured surface and use as a base for savory or sweet pies.
Like regular potatoes, sweet potatoes were used a great deal as well. Here is another popular recipe.
3. War Cake
Desserts were not exempt from the effects of rationing. The “war cake,” also known as “eggless, butterless, milkless cake,” became a staple sweet treat. Using ingredients like dried fruits, spices, and treacle, this cake provided a comforting dessert without depleting precious resources.
Recipe: 1918 War Cake
- 150 g (5½ oz) brown sugar
- 150 g (5½ oz) raisins
- 150 g (5½ oz) currants
- 1 tsp cinnamon
- 1 tsp ground ginger
- 1 tsp ground cloves
- ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
- 85 g (3 oz) margarine
- Pinch salt
- 300 g (10½ oz) plain flour
- 1 tsp baking soda
- ½ tsp baking powder
In a saucepan, combine dried fruit, 300 ml water, brown sugar, margarine, and mixed spice. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 5 minutes. Let cool completely. Then, in a separate bowl, mix flour, baking power and baking soda. Add the cooled fruit mixture and stir until combined. Pour into a greased loaf pan and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F) for 45–55 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean.
In Roseleigh, Lily Lawrence visits Birmingham, where tea is available at the opulent Grand Hotel, but their offerings have had to adapt to food shortages:
They all ordered the high tea special, which came on towered silver trays stuffed with the chef’s wartime replacements, including a cinnamon and treacle war cake, scones sweetened with dates, gingerbread cups, sausage tarts, and smoked salmon on oatcakes.
The enterprising Müllers version of the cake is also discussed in Roseleigh:
Just then, Miss Müller arrived with a pot of tea, a small jug of milk, and two slices of her mother’s Trench Cake, a dark, spicy fruit concoction made with vinegar and baking soda for leavening instead of eggs. Early in the war, the National Eggs for the Wounded scheme was announced, suggesting every British hen should be on active service, supplying excess eggs to military hospitals for wounded soldiers. Britons, and not least Mrs. Müller, had learned to bake without eggs.
The Legacy of Wartime Cooking
The food shortages of World War I left a lasting impact on British culinary practices. The ingenuity and resourcefulness demonstrated during the war years showcased the resilience of the British people. Many of the substitution recipes and techniques developed out of necessity became cherished traditions, reflecting a time when the nation pulled together to overcome adversity.
The lessons learned from this period about waste reduction, resourcefulness, and communal effort continue to resonate. As modern challenges such as sustainability and food security emerge, the wartime experience offers valuable insights into how societies can adapt and thrive under pressure.
In conclusion, World War I was not only a test of military might but also a testament to the human spirit’s ability to innovate and endure. I’ve used the historical fiction of Roseleigh to reflect some of this. Through creative substitution recipes and community cooperation, the people of Britain navigated the hardships of food shortages, leaving a legacy of resilience and culinary ingenuity.
What are some of your favorite ways historical fiction has included WWI food shortages? Have you tried, or do you want to try any of these recipes? I look forward to hearing from you in the comments.
If you want more information about the Müller family, Lily, and the wartime privations they face in Roseleigh, please join my mailing list.
Notes & References
R. J. Hammond, “British Food Supplies, 1914–1939,” The Economic History Review, vol. 16, no. 1, 1946.
British Jews in the First World War: We Were There Too
Baked Goods for the Troops, 1916.
Karen Burns-Booth, Lavender & Lovage
Chris Day, “The Great War British Bake Off,” The National Archives, 21 September 2015.
“Rationing and Food Shortages During the First World War,” Imperial War Museums.
Karlie Simmonds, “From Our Archives: 1918 War Cake,” The People’s Friend, November 18, 2019.
Sarah Wassberg, “World War Wednesdays: Sweet Potato Bread (1918),” Food History Blog, November 10, 2021.
mrs_kearsey, “Mock Goose,” about_cookery, May 24, 2014.
