The Hidden Story Behind Bourbon
I was apprehensive when I booked my trip to Kentucky for a Weller 107 barrel pick with The Bourbon Review magazine. While I love bourbon, I wasn’t sure if the feeling would be reciprocated.
I’ve always felt at home living in the east coast and the west coast. I’ve had mixed results with the heartland of America.
I felt completely at ease living in Colorado Springs, Colorado. When I walked into a local restaurant in Georgetown, Indiana, people stared like they’d never seen an Asian-American before. I was absolutely charmed by Philips Avenue Diner in Sioux Falls, South Dakota. During breakfast in Billings, Montana, an old man glued to Fox News would look over every now and then to stare suspiciously at me, my Vietnamese friend and Indian friend.
My apprehension turned out to be unnecessary because I had an amazing time on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. I felt welcomed and part of the bourbon family from the moment I landed. A good part of it was likely due to southern hospitality. But there was also something else. I couldn’t quite put my finger on it at the time, but it felt weird not feeling weird while I was in Kentucky.
It felt weird not feeling weird while I was there.
I continued to ponder on this odd feeling after I flew back to Seattle. Why was bourbon country so welcoming to Asians? I was reading articles online about bourbon late one night when I saw the company Beam-Suntory mentioned. This proved to be the key to my puzzle.
The modern history of bourbon starts in 1853 when Commodore Perry of the U.S. Navy sailed into Edo Bay, Japan under the guise of diplomacy. Arriving with war ships, he demanded that the Japanese open their closed borders for trade with the U.S.
At this point in history, Japan was still living in the feudal age with samurai and shogun named Tokugawa. The U.S. had long since industrialized and was interested in opening up a direct trade route between California and China. Japan was the perfect refueling spot for American sailors in the Pacific Ocean.
Faced with the superior firepower of the U.S. Navy, Tokugawa had no choice but to agree, or face a war the Japanese could not win.
One of these gifts happened to be a 110 gallon barrel of American Whiskey, known today as bourbon.
Beyond the implied military threat, Commodore Perry also brought gifts for the Japanese to show why it would be advantageous to trade with the U.S. One of these gifts happened to be a 110 gallon barrel of American whiskey, known today as bourbon.
This visit from the U.S. Navy was an “oh shit” moment in Japan. The moment when this tiny nation realized how far behind they had fallen technologically compared to Western countries.
Japan traded in samurais for steamships and adopted all things Western except for cultural values. A nation desperate to be accepted as a fellow colonial power instead of becoming a colony. They had to reinvent or die.
As part of the Japanese industrial revolution, thousands of Japanese citizens were sent around the world to learn from the best. Thousands of Westerners were also brought into Japan to teach as well.
As part of the industrial revolution, thousands of Japanese citizens were sent around the world to learn from the best.
Against this backdrop of a rapidly modernizing Japan, a chemist named Masataka Taketsuru went to Scotland in 1918 to learn how to make Scotch.
After Taketsuru returned to Japan in 1920 he was hired by businessman Shinjiro Torii. Together they build the Yamazaki distillery in 1924 and by 1929 they released the first Japanese whisky called Suntory. Torii continued to grow his business empire over the years, and in 1963 his company changed name to Suntory.
Back in the U.S, the 1900’s was a period of starts and stops for the bourbon industry. During WWI (1914–1918), distilleries were nationalized to produce things like industrial grade alcohol and synthetic rubber for the military. Then came Prohibition (1920–1933). Which led into the Great Depression (1929–1939). Followed by WWII (1939–1945) when the remaining distilleries were nationalized again to produce industrial alcohol and synthetic rubber for war efforts.
Bourbon was cheap, high proof and rough around the edges. It was uniquely American and as patriotic as eating apple pie and watching baseball.
It was the end of WWII when distilleries were finally able to convert back into commercial distilleries and start aging bourbon again. GIs drank bourbon during the war and they continued to drink it once they came back to America. Bourbon was cheap and high proof. It was uniquely American and as patriotic as eating apple pie and watching baseball.
The golden age of bourbon was short-lived however. The Vietnam War (1955–1975) was just around the corner and spelled the beginning of the end for bourbon in the 20th century.
They did not drink bourbon, which is what their fathers drank. They drank vodka and tequila instead.
College students protested against the Vietnam War and rebelled against everything their fathers did. These college students smoked pot. They practiced free love. They did not drink bourbon, which their fathers drank. These college students drank vodka and tequila instead.
As the Vietnam War winded down in the 70’s and these Baby Boomers grew older, they stuck with their vodka and tequila and stayed away from bourbon. 1969 was the last year that bourbon was the dominant alcohol in the U.S., and then declined in sales for the rest of the 20th century.
Looking back at it now, the 60’s and 70’s were the greatest decades for bourbons ever. Yet, this was precisely when the domestic market decided to shun bourbon.
Looking back at it now, the 60’s and 70’s were the greatest decades for bourbons ever. Yet, this was precisely when the domestic market decided to shun bourbon.
Faced with aging inventory and shrinking domestic customers, bourbon companies decided to look internationally to drive sales. One country in particular that caught the eye of bourbon companies was Japan.
Unlike the U.S., during the 80’s bourbon companies saw that a steady growth of demand in Japan. Japanese customers had already embraced all things Western as part of modernizing. They were use to drinking whiskey from local distilleries like Yamazaki. The stock market was also booming and had grown three times faster since the 1950’s than any other major nation. So bourbon companies were eager to cash in on the Japanese market.
One prominent American liquor company called Schenley Industries even enlisted the help of a Japanese company called Suntory to distribute bourbon.
These Japanese consumers were a lifeline for the battered bourbon industry during the 1980’s, and steady drinkers right up until the Japanese financial crisis in 1989.
Following the crash of the Japanese market, the bourbon industry stayed on life support during the 1990’s. Then the dotcom bubble burst in 2001. Followed by the Great Recession (2007–2009) which made things worse.
This is when you saw foreign companies purchasing bourbon distilleries. Like Japanese company Kirin purchasing Four Roses distillery in 2001. Like Suntory purchasing Jim Beam in 2014. Completing a full circle from when bourbon was part of the maiden voyage that disrupted the Japan way of life, to the Japanese now owning many bourbon distilleries that Americans drink.
This lost facet of bourbon history is why I felt at ease when I visited the Kentucky Bourbon Trail in 2018. Because I’m not the first Asian to discover bourbon. The Japanese paved the way for Asians and bourbon to come together after that fateful visit back in 1853.
So next time you order a pour of bourbon, share it with an Asian friend and regale them with the tale of how bourbon is actually both American and Asian.
Curious about why I love bourbon so much? read my article here
