Cycling Death Road

One of the highlights of any stay in La Paz, Bolivia, is the infamous Camino de las Yungas. Known to most simply as ‘Death Road’. Or if you need another cheery name, how about ‘Road of Fate’?

What is the Bolivian Death Road?

The road leads from La Paz to Coroico and is 64km long. In 1995 it was named the world’s most dangerous road. It gained this status due to:

• Steep slopes with no guardrails
• A narrow single track
• Poor weather conditions making visibility almost impossible at times

To cope with this drivers would stick to the left-hand of the road to keep a watchful eye over their outer wheel and it’s distance from the edge. If that wheel slips, it’s off down a steep steep slope! Anyone remember the Top Gear Bolivia Special from back in 2009. Think Jeremy Clarkson teetering on the edge as the gravel road fell away beneath his tyre. It’s a heart racing experience and the tension is palpable.

Annually the road sees 25,000 tourists hop on a downhill mountain bike and tackle the challenge firsthand. Since 1998 at least 18 cyclists have died on this stretch of road.

So really, why wouldn’t this be the perfect tourist hotspot?

Modernising the World’s Most Dangerous Road

Over the course of 20 years an alternative road was built. Completed in 2006 it allowed two lane traffic to bypass the most dangerous sections of Death Road. With better road surface, drainage and guardrails it’s been much improved.

As a result the original Death Road is now closed to vehicles and tourism is the main game. The only vehicles now driving on Death Road are those supporting mountain bikers.

But even with these new safety measures it’s not a cycle for the faint hearted. Firstly, it’s a narrow single track path. It’s made up of gravel and loose stones — not the easiest to navigate on two wheels. But mostly, the ever present sheer cliffs to your left, that seem to crumble away stone by stone. That’s unnerving.

Kitting Up: Protection on Death Road

The road starts at a height of 4650m, about an hours drive away from La Paz. It’s here teams get kitted up with protective suits and hard elbow and knee protectors. Even our gloves were seriously sturdy with knuckle and thumb plastic protection. The final piece was of course, a helmet. Standing in that gear you feel pretty invincible from scrapes and scratches. Wrapped up in my cocoon of protective clothing nothing could get me. Nothing but accidentally plummeting off the edge and back down to sea level.

Taking a guided mountain biking trip meant a large group to kit up. So time to trial out the chunky mountain bikes. Cycling round in small circles we adjusted and practiced, biding our time and building our confidence. Not being a mountain biker I was surprised at their bounce. The suspension is clearly designed to absorb rough travel.

Setting off on Death Road

Leaving the safety of our minibuses behind we cycled towards the main road. We’d stopped in a large lay-by to one side. At this altitude the effort of a short uphill cycle was intense. It’s easy to forget the effect of the altitude when staying in La Paz. It’s the highest capital city in the world standing at 3,650 m above sea level. Tip: if you’re flying straight in, spend some time getting accustomed to your new altitude. And prepare for some slow walking around the city in those first few days.

On the edge of the main road we waited with anticipation. Looking for a gap in the traffic we would soon launch our team onto the road and the trip could begin.

Technically this main road isn’t Death Road. It’s a highway that gets us where we need to go. So to reach the official start we’d have 24km of downhill cycling along smooth asphalt roads. We wound our way down through the Yungas Valley — admiring the views as they breached the clouds. The cycling required no physical effort at this stage. It was a case of letting gravity take over. Fingers firmly on the brakes it was chilly in the wind.

The Official Start: We’re Cycling Death Road

Before placing our wheels on the official route we were treated to a safety briefing. The advice struck me as unusual. “Stay on the left side of the road” (cliff side!). The logic was that our support vehicles would be able to pass the group on the right. It felt safer for them but not for me, a vulnerable cyclist! I was anxious that a large minibus could force me off the road. But not being a strong cyclist I was likely over-worrying.

A few photos later and we were off down muddy slopes, the bike slipping and sliding all over the place. Covering terrain of loose rocks and stones was much harder work than the smooth highway. Unexpectedly you’d find a wheel clip something and slip out from underneath you. With no mountain biking experience I took to concentrating on the placement of my bike. I’d try to pick the path of least resistance. I took a rather unspectacular slow speed fall, more like a topple really. My protective gear saved me from a single physical scratch but my confidence took a severe knocking.

On the Road

With most of my focus on my wheels and the road in front of me it was easy to forget the stunning mountain scenery. Yes Death Road is scary. And yes there’s good reason to keep one eye on those cliffs. But the scenery is breathtaking. Although I guess the effort of cycling at altitude might really be the cause of that!

If you try your hand at cycling Death Road I would urge you to look up and around you. Take some time to:

• Drink in the mountains around you
• Follow the valley beneath you as it stretches into the distance
• Watch the jungle like foliage rustle in the breeze and dip in and out of the clouds.

Oh and of course, get your camera out once or twice. But remember to savour what you see through your eyes and not always the camera lens!

[If you don’t fancy risking taking breakables down Death Road on a bike many of the tour companies will provide a photography service as part of the cost. Safer and easier for everyone].

Reaching the end of Death Road

Clearly mountain biking is not my thing and I soon found myself at the back of the pack. This is where the support vehicles come into their own. If, like me, it becomes quite a struggle you can always hop in the support vehicle and they can take you to safety. If you wanna keep cycling, at whatever pace you need they’re always there. It’s a little confidence boost when you’re feeling vulnerable.

But eventually gravity will take over and you’ll find yourself at the end. Exhausted you’ll deserve a cool beer in the minibus (the tour guys come prepared) and a big buffet lunch to refuel.

Things to Remember on the Road

• Downhill mountain biking is pretty hard on the hands. You’re resting almost all of your body weight through the handle bars and braking often.
• Even with hefty suspension on the bikes it’s a pretty bumpy ride. Prepare to lug the bike around as you cruise over the terrain. Think speed boat bouncing over rough waters.
• It can be a long and hard day. Make sure to eat well at breakfast and take the opportunity to snack when you can. Food is fuel.

Originally posted on Sage Adventures travel & wellness lifestyle blog: www.sageadventres.co.uk.