John O’Groats to Duncansby Head

The Northernmost part of Scotland is wild and untamed. Think dramatic cliffs, uninterrupted coastland and windswept land. I’d never been this far north in the UK before, nor had I appreciated how far North it really is (about 6 and a half hours away from the English border). I was amazed at the beautiful scenery, delighted by the wildlife and enthralled by the photo opportunities around every corner. From John O’Groats we took this leisurely walk to Duncansby Head. It was a great chance to stretch the legs from a road trip but not so much walking it left us aching the next day.

The small coastal village of John O’Groats and the ‘End of the Road’

The village of John O’Groats is most famous for its location at one end of the Landsend to John O’Groats challenge. This 874 mile (1,407km) gruelling trip sees adventurers travel the length of the UK on foot or, more commonly, by bike. But in reality, John O’Groats is a humble place.

It’s a rural farming community situated in the remote North Easterly part of the Scottish highlands. The locals say there are two pivotal buildings in the village: the Post Office and the Grocery store. And of course, there’s the ‘End of the Road’. This is the furthest north easterly inhabited part of the UK. At the end of the road, you’ll find the infamous sign, a tourist centre, a harbour, an Inn, some accommodation and a large (cheap!) car park. But mostly you’ll find unspoilt landscape and local wildlife ready to explore.

From John O’Groats you can walk to the Ness of Duncansby by weaving along the coastal path. Watch out for Groatie Buckies — small shells which bring the finder good luck. Or keep your gaze up for the spectacular views and local wildlife. If you fancy a longer walk, follow the coast to the Stacks of Duncansby or hop in the car and drive there instead.

It’s also the perfect starting point for trips to the Orkney Islands some six miles further out to sea.

Dunnet Head — the real North of Great Britain

While John O’Groats is often thought of as the most northern point of Great Britain, that claim really belongs at Dunnet Head. Here a lighthouse marks the northernmost tip of Scotland and Great Britain.

The lighthouse dates back to the 19th century when it was built by Robert Stevenson (related to Robert Louis Stevenson of Treasure Island fame). Since 1989 the light has been automated and is now monitored remotely from Edinburgh.

But what Dunnet Head is really known for is its wild landscape full of sea cliffs and coastal grassland. It’s a wildlife haven home to puffins, seals, razorbills and much more. As a result, there’s a lot of conservation activity going on and you’ll notice signs for organisations like the RSPB all over the region.

Duncansby Head

The most north-easterly point in Great Britain and also home to the precarious rock formations — the Duncansby Stacks. We have the north sea to thank for these geological beauties. The sea slowly eroded the softest parts of the cliff to leave two massive pinnacles behind that are only just detached from the mainland.

Technically there are three stacks. The third is known as Thirle Door arch and is still connected to the mainland. Only a small arch shows its separation in a gentle motion.

You can get pretty close to these on the walk but the best views of the formations are from a distance. But up close you can watch the seabirds as they rest precariously on the stacks before taking further flight.

The walk from John O’Groats to Duncansby Head

The walk from John O’Groats to the Stacks at Duncansby Head should take you around 2.5–3 hours of walking. It’s a relatively flat, pleasant walk and most of your company is more likely to be sheep or some of the Scottish wildlife than fellow tourists. The route will take you along the coastal path towards the old lighthouse, then up to the Stacks for some stunning photo and bird watching opportunities. Then you’ll double back on yourself, take a shortcut and walk back along the coastal path to John O’Groats.

To start the walk park up at the John O’Groats car park. It cost us £3 to park for the whole day (September 2020) so you don’t need to worry about how long you’ll be. You’ll have time for the walk and a bit of browsing around the tourist centre, crafts shop and a small brewery.

From the car park walk towards the famous signpost and turn right. Soon you’ll see two large Caithness slabs which mark the start of the coastal walk. Then simply follow the coast, keeping the sea to your left. You’ll notice it’s a pebbly beach at this point. Soon you’ll climb out of the stoney region and into grassland, passing through a few kissing gates. There’s an old winch at the far end, which was once used by local fisherman to haul their boats.

Keep weaving alongside the coast as it reaches out to the left. You’ll see an information sign and a bench at the Ness of Duncansby which juts out here. Take a moment to look back at John O’Groats and how far you’ve come before continuing further along the coast.

Now the terrain is grassy, sometimes boggy depending on the time of year. You’ll have a clear line of sight to the lighthouse. Before you reach it you’ll notice the sandy Bay of Sannick fall away to your left. Scramble down the grassy and sandy banks to walk along the undisturbed beach. This secluded spot is perfect for a picnic, a pit stop and a chance to spot some wildlife.

On our trip, we watched a bob of seals playfully gaze at their new visitors with a curious eye. In a group of about 15, we’d watch as they took turns bobbing above the water, their faces following us, then diving beneath the waves or riding them as they broke. They watched and watched until the Bay of Sannick was long behind us, and our figures disappeared into the wind.

Climbing out of Sannick Bay the cliffs start to grow and the path manoeuvres around the Glupe, a blow-hole and rocky arch. From here you meet the road that leads up to the lighthouse at Duncansby Head. Read about Robert Stevenson and family on the information board, then turn right and continue walking along the coast to the Stacks. It won’t be long before the dramatic formations are visible.

The path first leads down to a stunning viewpoint where both Stacks and Thirle Door are visible. From here, it’s a climb up the grassy coastline towards the stacks themselves for a closer look. Be mindful of the wind and the sharp drop on your left. It’s a wonderful view but the weather can be harsh on this exposed piece of land.

Walk as far as you like towards, and beyond, the stacks to take in the view and spot the bird colonies. Once you’re done turn around and continue back the way you came until you reach a dip in the landscape. From here you take a shortcut, cutting across the land to reach Sannick Bay. From here, follow the same path back towards John O’Groats and the car park.

A final few tips for your visit to the Northernmost part of Great Britain

Be prepared for all sort of weather but do not do this walk if the winds are too strong. It can be pretty sketchy out there with winds whipping in from the North Sea and nothing to buffet them on this exposed piece of land. We experienced winds like I’d never seen before and it was a relatively good day of weather.

• Don’t underestimate the effort exerted battling the wind. It may be a short, and flat-ish, walk but you’ll be pleased for a brew in a cafe at the end. A chance to let your body rest from the onslaught of a battle to stay upright!
• Make sure to stop off at the Bay of Sannick and keep your eyes peeled for sea life — seals and puffins are common finds.
• Give yourself some time to explore the Scottish islands — day trips to Orkney are popular.
• If you just want to visit Dunnet Head and walk to the stacks then park at Dunnet Head lighthouse car park and set off from there.
• Pack binoculars! You never know what you’re going to spot, or what you think you’ve spotted. Best to be prepared and enhance your sight. You want to be clear you saw a puffin right!

So if you think about it there is way more to see at John O’Groats than the so-called end of the UK and the famous sign. There’s the raw, untamed wild of northern Scotland with its:

• Stunning coastal views
• Impressive geological formations
• Birdwatching havens
• Local wildlife

And all of this will capture the child within you. If you’re looking for stunning views and outdoor adventure I would highly recommend.

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Originally posted on Sage Adventures travel & wellness lifestyle blog: www.sageadventres.co.uk.