The Great Wall of China: Badaling

Intro to the Great Wall of China

One of the new seven wonders of the world — the Great Wall of China. Also one of man’s most impressive architectural creations. It spans a vast 5,500 miles (8,850km) or up to 13,170 miles (21,200km) according to a disputed Chinese study. And it isn’t one single wall but a collection of smaller walls. The main parts run roughly parallel and are in the northern parts of China.

Together these fortifications protect and consolidate Chinese land. But they’re not just for defence against the nomadic ‘barbarians’ of the past. The walls act as border control along the old Silk Road. Acting as a transportation corridor the walls are used to help regulate immigration and emigration. In fact, the Great Wall was never very effective at preventing invaders and instead has become a symbol of China’s strength and ambition.

Construction of the walls began back in the 7th Century BC although little of these original walls now remain. Over the millennia many successive Chinese dynasties have put their mark on history by building and maintaining stretches of the wall. The most well known, and the most recent, was built by the Ming Dynasty between the 14th and 17th Centuries.

The Ming Dynasty constructed the Great Wall using bricks, tiles, lime and stone. These materials were easier to work with than the original earth and stone used by the previous dynasties. This meant the Ming’s could build structures much more quickly. The introduction of brick also made the Great Wall much stronger than before. Just ramming earth together doesn’t make for much structural rigidity in comparison.

Over the years the Great Wall has been preserved and renovated where possible but this doesn’t stop disrepair creeping in. Vandalism and graffiti is a major problem in areas and some inscribed bricks were stolen and sold on black markets. According to a 2012 report, up to 22% of the Ming’s Great Wall has simply vanished. This is now a part of history not forgotten but just lost.

It is often said that the Great Wall of China can be seen from space or even the moon. Unfortunately, this is just a myth. According to NASA, the Great Wall is barely visible to the naked eye even when you know exactly where to look and the weather is particularly favourable. And when it comes to seeing the Great Wall from the moon… well, the wall would appear the same as a single human hair from 3km (2 miles) away so I think we can say that’s also a myth!

History of the wall

The Great Wall of China wasn’t built overnight. It has a long and complex history thanks to the ruling dynasty and the country’s politics at the time.

In 220 BC, the first emperor of the Qin Dynasty ordered some of the existing wall sections to be strung together. This would create a 3,500-mile stretch to protect China from the North. With walls of 4.5–9 metres tall, and ramparts a further 3.5 metres above that, it was a massive project. It saw an army of soldiers, convicts and general workers unite for a common goal. It’s said that 400,000 people died during construction and many were buried within the wall itself!

When the Qin Dynasty fell, so did the state of much of the Great Wall. Until the Wei Dynasty came along and began restoring and extending the wall to defend against warring tribes. The work was then continued and extended by the Bei Qi and the Sui Dynasty.

But once again the fall of a Dynasty left the Wall in a different state. No longer an important fortification when the Tang Dynasty rose to power. The Northern tribe had been defeated so there was no need for the wall to serve as protection.

Eventually, in the 13th Century, the Yuan (Mongol) Dynasty led by Genghis Khan, came to establish power over China, parts of Asia and some of Europe. By this time there wasn’t much need for military fortification. Instead the wall protected a different kind of person — merchants and caravan’s travelling the long and lucrative Silk Road. The Great Wall began protecting trade, instead of people and land.

Much of what remains of the wall today was built during the Ming Dynasty from the 14th to 17th Centuries. Chinese culture flourished during this time. So the wall grew in size with bridges, temples and pagoda’s as new additions to the old fortifications.

The Ming Dynasty was also responsible for:

• Creating the north and south lines (or the Inner and Outer walls as they are known)
• Developing strategic passes with gates placed along the walls

In the centuries following the Ming Dynasty, the Great Wall became symbolic in the Western world. It represented China in all its glory and strength. It symbolised control over its people and a barrier to its enemies. It was a strong presence that exerted control worldwide. It was one hell of a statement piece.

Nowadays the wall is admired for its architecture and protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Where to visit: the Badaling section of the wall

The most popular section of the Great Wall of China, and the first part opened to the public, is in Badaling. It’s about 80km (50 miles) northwest of Beijing and can be reached by high-speed train or bus. I visited as part of a tour in a small group with one guide.

This 7.6km part of the wall was built during the Ming Dynasty in the 16th Century. It served a strategic purpose as the first line of defence protecting Beijing from the Mongol tribes in the north. But what you see today isn’t the original wall. In fact, it underwent reconstruction to look like the original and was then opened to the public in 1957.

Since then the area has blossomed into a kind of tourist mecca as “he who has never been to the Great Wall is not a true man”. (The translated quote is engraved onto a stone outside the wall with the famous line from one of Mao Zedong’s poems). There are hotels, restaurants and a cable car, if you don’t fancy all those stairs, up to the highest point. ‘Good Man Slope’, as it’s known, stands 1,015m above sea level.

Visited by state leaders and celebrities from all over the world you’ll be in good company as you climb step by step up the wall. Follow in the footsteps of the Queen, President Nixon and Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher to name just a few.

Marvel at the beautiful landscape and the snaking structure of the wall as it winds over the mountainous landscape like a dragon stalking its prey. Imagine five horses galloping along the walls or ten men marching in neat formation — the walls are that wide. Looming 7.8m high enjoy the vantage point high above the area and understand why the wall was believed to be such a great fortress.

Making your way up the Great Wall of China

At Badaling, there are a few different options for making your way up the steep wall. Either do it under your own steam and hike your way up or take the cable car.

If you’re hiking be prepared for lots and lots of steps. Some of them are quite steep but there are handrails and the wide wall makes it easy to stop for regular breathers if you need. Wear sensible shoes that are comfortable for walking but also have a decent grip to keep you steady on your feet.

The cable car offers you a ride up to Good Man’s Slope (the highest watchtower). You can either take it one way or both — see how you feel. It’s certainly nice to know there’s the option to take the cable car down after the climb up!

When to visit the Great Wall of China

I visited in August and the heat was unbearable! Every selfie I have shows me drenched in sweat and looking pretty bedraggled — not my best look.

If you visit in the summer prepare for the heat — wear suncream, a hat and bring plenty of water. If you burn easily, like me, consider bringing an umbrella for a little respite from the overbearing sunshine. Don’t rely on the watchtowers (little huts or forts at intervals along the wall) as a chance to recover from the heat. I was disappointed to find the watchtowers appeared to be used as toilets. The smell was overpowering, floating through the air even before you reached each watchtower. I often found the stench more unbearable than the heat and was sorely disappointed to see such a beautiful and historic monument being treated in this way.

If possible, time your visit to the Great Wall between March and May, or September and November. The spring and autumn months aren’t as hot as the summer neither are they bitterly cold like the winter.

Also, avoid some of the busier seasons which tend to fall in July and August. This is when Chinese children and students are on holiday. The same goes for national holidays:

• National Day October 1st
• Labour Day May 1st

Top Tip: Book ahead online and ask your hotel/hostel for help if you need — Google Translate can only go so far. There can be up to 65,000 visitors a day!

Originally posted on Sage Adventures travel & wellness lifestyle blog: www.sageadventres.co.uk.