The Mystery of the White Horse on the Hill
What is the white horse on the hill?
Set into the grass on one of Oxfordshire tallest hills the white flowing shapes of a horse stand out amongst the rolling green grass. This 110m chalky figure is carved into the ground. It’s carved deep in trenches (up to 1 metre) and filled with crushed chalk. This unique piece of historic art has a distinctive place in the countryside.
The Uffington White Horse, named after the closest town, is one of Britain’s great mystery’s. We don’t know exactly why it came to be there or how long it’s been there. We do know it’s the oldest horse figure in the country and that it was the inspiration for the Kilburn White Horse and the Folkestone White Horse. There are also many other white horses strewn across the Wilshire countryside. There are so many that the white horse has become symbolic to the county.
The best views of the white horse are definitely from the skies. But if you’re not lucky enough to take flight, you can still enjoy this Bronze-Age marvel up-close and personal. Take a circular walk or park at the National Trust car park and take the short walk over to the chalky site.
White Horse Hill and the dramatic landscape
White Horse Hill, as it is known, is home to ancient remains thought to be more than 3,000 years old. The horse sits on an escarpment meaning you have stunning views over the surrounding countryside. Looking down into the valley you can see Oxfordshire and Wiltshire spread out for miles. There are also several features of the landscape worth checking out:
- The Manger: the name for the valley below the white horse
- Giant’s Steps: down into the valley there’s rippled grassland to one side. It was formed during the permafrost of the last Ice Age.
- Dragon Hill: a small crest at the bottom of White Horse Hill. Even from high above you can see a chalky blemish on the top of the grassland. It is said this is where England’s patron saint, St. George, slew the fearsome dragon. That chalky patch covers the spot where the dragon’s blood was shed. No grass could ever grow there again.
- Uffington Castle: above the white horse, at the top of the hill and at the highest point in Oxfordshire, stands an Iron Age hillfort. Hillforts are now quite rare and Uffington’s is one of the best example that remains. Now, all you can see is a grassy mound forming the shape of the old ford.
Why is there a white horse on the hill?
There are many hypotheses about the purpose of the white horse. But the first question was “is it actually a horse?”. Could it be a dog or a cat? Despite the debate, we know that it was referred to as a horse in the 11th century and since then it’s rather stuck.
But what does it mean I hear you say? Well, it could be some sort of tribal symbol, or maybe connected to the Uffington castle. One theory suggested the white horse was actually a ‘solar horse’ because of its position in relation to the sun. At the right time of day, the horse is ahead of the sun. It’s thought this could be something to do with the belief that the sun was carried across the sky by a chariot (think Greek mythology), or a horse. But the horse is also quite similar to horse designs found on Celtic currency.
So ultimately, the purpose of Uffington’s mysterious white horse is still unknown. Maybe we’ll never know?
And why is it white?
The white horse isn’t carved deep enough to reach the natural chalk deposits underneath. Instead the trenches have to be filled with chalk to keep it looking white and crisp. Until the 19th century this was done every 7 years as part of a local fair. Nowadays the white horse is maintained by The National Trust and local volunteers. When it’s time for chalking day volunteers smash up the chalk to form more of a paste that can then be crushed into the earth.
In the second world war, the white horse was covered up to avoid enemy planes using it as a landmark for navigation.
The White Horse Hill circular walk
A great way to explore the area and check out all the history is to follow the circular walk path. It’s a 12.5km (almost 8 mile) circular route that should take about 3–4 hours. It’s not completely flat but it’s certainly not climbing a mountain. It’s a good walk to take at a gentle pace and enjoy your surroundings. You’ll see plenty of sheep, a few deer, expansive views across the Oxfordshire countryside and Ashdown House — a Dutch-style country estate.
Starting at point one on the map is the National Trust car park. Now open again, post COVID-19 lockdown, it’s the perfect location to drop the car off and get quick access to the fields, the white horse and some great picnic spots. Even if you don’t fancy the full walk I’d still recommend parking up and taking a nice stroll from points one to two on the map. It’s worth it, even if you’ve only got a short amount of time.
Following the signs towards the white horse, you’ll see the Manger Giant’s Steps and Dragon Hill. Continue up the hill towards the grassy mound of Uffington Castle. Go off route for just a moment here. Think back to the Iron Age when round huts would have filled the space — home to extended families.
Then hope back on the route and walk over the hill, beyond Uffington Castle, towards the ridgeway. Turn right to join the ridgeway and keep walking until you reach Waylands Smithy — this is an old burial site.
NB: At this point, we were a bit eager and turned off the ridgeway too soon. Stay on the ridgeway until you meet Waylands Smithy — that’s your landmark!
After Waylands Smithy turn left at a crossroads and continue walking towards the line of trees that border the field. You should then be able to follow this row of trees until you reach the woodlands that makeup part of Ashdown Park. There’s plenty to explore in the grounds of Ashdown Park. If you fancy, take some time to look around — imagine living in such a place, spot the deer or visit the 17th-century house itself.
Ashdown House itself was the result of a love affair. The 1st Earl of Craven was in love with the ‘Winter Queen’ — Elizabeth of Bohemia. He built Ashdown House for her as an escape from the plague that was crawling through London. Poor Elizabeth died of the disease before she made it to Ashdown House and the Earl died in his late 80s, unmarried.
Leave the grounds of Ashdown House behind you, cross the road and head towards the hill. This is the only real hill climb of the walk. But don’t forget to look behind you. The higher you climb the better your view of Ashdown House becomes as it fills your view.
At the top of the hill, turn left and take the downhill footpath that leads to Compton Bottom (another row of trees). Once there, follow the row of trees back towards the ridgeway. Soon you should recognise your surroundings once more — Wayland Smithy will look familiar.
Turn right at Wayland Smithy and follow the path back the way you came. Soon you should see Uffington Castle and white horse hill.
Originally posted on Sage Adventures travel & wellness lifestyle blog: www.sageadventres.co.uk.
