Wonders of the world: Iguazú Falls (Argentina)
Iguazú Falls, or “big water” as the name translates into English, are sometimes considered one of the 7 wonders of the natural world. And with good reason. With 275 falls, the tallest of which is 75m, they are a truly spectacular sight. In fact, they’re the sixth-largest waterfalls in the world. Nestled in the jungle between Argentina and Brazil, a trip to the falls in one heck of a way to see mother nature at her finest.
Given their location on the border of two South American countries, you have the opportunity to spend two days visiting the falls. Get two perspectives if you like. Many people say the Argentinian side is the best angle to view the falls. And that may be true in the sense that 80% of the falls lie on the Spanish speaking side of the border. But I reckon both are worth a trip. Find out what to expect on the Brazilan side here.
The legend behind “Big Water”
Iguazú Falls was formed by volcanic eruptions over 100 million years ago. Leaving a large crack, a scar on the Earth, the water had nowhere to go but over the cliff and into the cavern.
But the land is steeped in culture legends that tell a different story. According to local legend, there was a God who wanted to marry a beautiful girl called Naipi. But Naipi didn’t want to marry the God because she was in love with a mortal called Taroba. Together Naipi and Taroba tried to escape the wrath of the infatuated God in their hand-carved canoe. This angered the God greatly. In a fit of rage, he split the river in two, separating Naipi and Taroba for eternity and creating Iguazú Falls.
Getting to the Argentinian Iguazú Falls
From the town of Puerto Iguazú the falls are accessible by a short 20-minute bus ride. From there it’s just a case of paying your entrance fee to the National Park (beware this is pretty steep). Then catch the tourist train, or a walk to the top of the falls.
I chose to walk the 1.75km along the upper route. The owner at the hostel I was staying in recommended this for the best ‘first view’. By staying high I would view the waterfalls from above. I guess it would put me on more of a level pegging with the natural wonder.
The short walk wound along wooden paths through the forest. It was still early and pretty quiet, especially as many of the tourists choose to take the train. However, that didn’t stop me from making friends. Two coatis found their way onto the path and curiously began to investigate the few humans who’d strayed onto the path. Now these little fellas may look adorable but wild coatis can have a nasty bite or scratch. If bottle-fed from young they’re more likely to be described as mischievous toddlers. They scramble around and constantly find themselves in trouble. The only difference with these creatures is their sharp claws!
First sighting of Iguazú Falls
As you follow the wooden walkways through the jungle, the trees start to open up, just a little. Sturdy barriers line the edge of the path, keeping you safe from a plummeting fall (that might be too close a view of the falls!). Before actually seeing the waterfalls you’ll feel a little mist as the spray starts to jump off your body — a cooling experience in the Argentinian heat. Next, you’ll hear the roar of rushing water as it cascades over the edge, falls and crashes into the river. A powerful explosion lurks around every corner.
As the trees start to open up catch your first glimpse of Iguazú Falls. Prepare to catch your breath. 7 wonders of the world alright! Through the trees you’ll see 1, then 2, then 3 and more falls plummeting water. The trees frame this first view beautifully, as if gently exposing you to mother nature’s fine creation. As you continue walking more and more comes into view. The sheer scale of it all is unparalleled.
Warning: The falls are a popular attraction in this area, especially from the Argentinian side. As a result, it can get pretty busy. Bear in mind there’ll be lots of other tourists walking along the same walkways as you. They’ll be trying to get their selfie too. Hey, they might even join yours. So expect to be patient and to get hot and sweaty. Take plenty of water and sugary snacks.
The walkways lead you along to view more of the waterfalls that stretch almost 3km of this National Park. But that, and the coatis, aren’t the only thing to watch out for. The surrounding area is full of selva — rainforest. And rainforests are home to so much life and biodiversity. You never know what you might find so be sure to look around. Be inquisitive and enjoy the rare occasion of being in a place like this.
Walking over the bridge, out on Iguazú Falls
One of the most striking parts of the upper route is walking out along the river, metres away from the cliff edge. Here you’ll find one of the largest and widest parts of the falls. It’s cut off a little from the series of smaller falls surrounding it. So this is your chance to feel the full force of the water pulsing under your feet.
Out on the bridge, you’re exposed to the weather and the water. Hold on tight and lean over the edge to watch gravity take over. Watch as the water gets swept out from underneath you and over the cliff edge. Watch in some sort of hypnotic trance at the neverending flow.
The lower route
After taking your time to explore the upper route with its views down over the falls, your day is far from complete. The lower route is another short trail, about 1.7km, that takes you closer to the crash and roar of the waves. If you were feeling a bit hot and muggy from walking around in the jungle this is the spot — be ready to get wet.
Look closely at the foaming pit where these huge waterfalls all meet the ground in a crash and splash of water and spray. At one point the path leads you so close you’ll be drenched from the mist that flutters off the falls in no time.
Top tip: put away all your valuables before getting too close to this one. If you want a picture, ask someone else to take it and keep your phone/camera in dry hands.
Devil’s throat at Iguazú Falls
One of the most popular parts to visit in Iguazú Falls is the u-shaped pocket of falls that sit right on the border. It’s nicknamed ‘The Devil’s Throat’ because of its size and shape. At 82m high, 150m wide and 700m long almost half of the river flows into this basin. It’s also part of the falls that’s most photographed, most talked about and most recognised. This is where you:
- Take a boat and get soaked
- Hear the waterfalls roar like a demon from the deep
- Watch plumes of mist snake up into the sky
During my visit, Devil’s throat was closed due to heavy rains and high water levels. Ordinarily, you can take a tourist train to the neck of the throat or take one of the many boat rides up to its mouth.
I couldn’t take a boat trip that day but from what I’ve heard they offer unparalleled views of the main attraction — the waterfalls. But also of the rainforest all around you. If you haven’t had a chance to visit the Amazon or part of the rainforest on your South American trip I’d highly recommend considering a boat trip. The rainforest is a special place. It’s a place best experienced and understood firsthand.
An American couple I met at the park described their trip on the train to Devil’s Throat earlier in the week. They seemed to have enjoyed it but talked more highly of the routes I’d already walked today (the upper and lower paths). Apparently what you could see on foot was far more spectacular. Have you been yourself? Leave a comment and tell us what you thought.
An alternative hike in the National Park of Iguazú Falls
With plenty of time left in my day to explore the National Park, I opted for a 7km trek through the forest. This walk would take me to a viewpoint for a small waterfall, out of the way of the main cluster.
Setting off along the 7km trail felt a little like being back in the heart of the Amazon rainforest. The trees surrounded the small dirt path which covered with ants and I barely saw many tourists at all. This was a welcome relief from the swarms gathering around the falls.
But out in the jungle, there were other things to contend with. Namely, the heat. Soon sweat drenched my back and dripped down my forehead. There was nothing to do but plough on, work through the heat and enjoy the stillness. Nothing but the sound of wildlife, your footsteps and the flurry of thoughts in your mind.
Soon I approached a couple of tourists who’d stopped on the path. They were staring intently up at the trees. Following their gaze, I spotted a Toucan. Its brightly coloured beak stood out from the greenery surrounding it. I’d never seen one in the wild before so I stayed there for some time. My neck craning up towards the tree line to watch this creature in its home. The rainforest never ceases to amaze me.
Finally reaching the waterfall, already feeling pretty tired, I walked over the bridge and looked down at the pool below me. A few people were swimming there beneath the falls but I didn’t fancy the extra walk down. Instead, I sat a little way back from the falls, took off my shoes and socks and soaked my tired feet in the cool river. It was bliss. I felt like I could have sat there for hours, in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by trees and wonderful sounds with the river cooling my weary feet. My mind soon began to wander and I started to think about the sorts of creatures that might be lurking in the river ready to nibble my toes. So I put my socks and shoes back on and took the hike back to the main entrance. There I caught the shuttle bus back to Puerto Iguazu and walked home to my hostel.
It had been a long, hot day. But it would be one to remember. It was one of the finest examples of nature I’d witnessed.
Originally posted on Sage Adventures travel & wellness lifestyle blog: www.sageadventres.co.uk.
