Four peaks in 16 days

Santiago Suarez
Santiago Suarez
Published in
2 min readJul 22, 2016

My time in Huaraz is coming to an end, and I have to say I’m stoked with what I got done. The original plan was to be here a bit longer, but, given the pace we have managed since our arrival, I’m ready to go. From the moment we got to Huaraz on July 5th to the moment we got back to Huaraz after our third and last expedition yesterday (July 21st), we did:

  • Acclimatization hike up Lake Ahuac to 4,500 meters.
  • Climbed Ishinca (5,530m) via the Northwest Slopes in great time. You can read the trip report here.
  • Climbed Artesonraju (6,025m) via the rarely-done East Ridge (D-rated, 55–60° snow, and a few ice steps). This mountain is absolutely beautiful, and famous for being the Paramount Pictures logo. Trip report still to come. This was my top goal coming into Peru, and I still can’t believe we got it done.
  • Attempted Quitaraju (6,036m) via the North Face (D-rated, 55–60° snow, and a wicked bergschrund). Got within 40 meters of the summit before turning back because of bad snow conditions. Trip report still to come.
  • Matt and Andreas climbed Alpamayo (5,947m) — the world-famous mountain. Sadly, I had to sit that one out for a number of reasons, but I’m thrilled that they summited.

Throughout, we only had two full days in Huaraz, which, while technically “rest days,” we spent on logistics, food, and expedition prep. Throughout, I could not have asked for better expedition partners: thoughtful, stoked, competent, direct, communicative, patient, mentoring, hilarious, fun, generous, and open. Once you have spent eight nights in a bivvy tent with someone, you know a lot about them. We are already planning where to go next.

For now, enjoying the last day in Huaraz before undertaking another culinary tour of Lima on Sunday.

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