Aromagraphy Notes: The Scent Landscape of Sarajevo
From June 10th to 17th, I stayed in Sarajevo, making aromagraphy notes on its unique scent landscape, creating a kind of “scent map.” It’s interesting to note that a significant part of this landscape is gradually disappearing from the public urban environment, thus acquiring significant historical value from a sensory experience perspective. This information will be updated next time I visit the city. Everyone is welcome to explore this scent map and feel free to share your comments by contacting me on Facebook or Instagram.
- Scent of Linden Trees at Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque
In the courtyard of the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque, on both sides of the drinking fountain, stand two linden trees. During my visit, they were in full bloom, filling the entire mosque courtyard with a sweet and refreshing aroma. This scent of linden blossoms imparted an uplifting feeling, especially in a place that serves as an active center for the religious community in the Old Town. Locals particularly highlighted this scent as valuable. By recording this scent and attaching it to an image of the mosque, viewers would be conveyed this fresh, comforting emotion, which would be difficult to grasp solely through visual means, especially for non-Muslims.
2. Scent of Baking Bread near Baščaršija Tram Stop
Living near the Baščaršija tram stop, I spent a lot of time on the terrace. Every day, especially in the mornings, the air was filled with the smells of cooking, but the scent of baking bread, with a slight hint of burning, was particularly prominent. In many parts of Europe, these cooking smells are suppressed by powerful kitchen hoods, preventing them from reaching public spaces. However, in Sarajevo, they are present. What’s important is that these scents tell a story about the city’s daily life and simultaneously reveal broad cultural traditions in the preparation of various breads and pastries, which cannot be seen in beautiful pictures alone. This scent will likely soon become a thing of the past, erased by powerful extractors and changing eating habits that will lead to less bread consumption.
3. Scent of Bosnian Coffee in the Old Town
Sarajevo’s Old Town is like a living museum, reflecting the diversity, contradictions, and way of life of the Balkans. In the mornings, I visited local cafes there and drank Balkan coffee, which is similar to Turkish coffee but has a milder taste. While drinking coffee, I could smell both the coffee aroma and the cigarette smoke from people sitting nearby. This mix — the scent of Balkan coffee and cigarette smoke combined with the taste of Turkish sweets — was one of my special sensory experiences in Sarajevo, which cannot be easily conveyed through photography. This scent could be endangered in the future, as more and more Bosnians are choosing to drink Italian espresso and Americano, and the modern European lifestyle, where fewer people smoke and smokers are pushed out of public places, as well as attitudes towards sweets, are changing, meaning they won’t be offered for tasting so readily years from now. This scent is a historical testimony to a specific, but bygone, historical era.
4. Scent of Smoked Tobacco in a Balkan Express Bar or Kafana
In the Balkans, people tend to smoke, and it’s allowed in bars and Kafanas where men gather in the evenings, smoke, drink beer, and discuss the day’s events. The scent of tobacco smoke completely pervades these places; it’s impossible not to notice it, and it brought back memories of when I myself used to smoke. An image with and without this scent would create a different sensory and emotional experience. Furthermore, many of us have had the experience of smoking, and now, as smokers become fewer, it somehow testifies to a bygone era for Europeans in general, and for each former smoker individually.
5. Scent of Mildew in an Apartment Building Built During Yugoslav Times
As part of the Sarajevo Photography Festival, a special film screening was held in a rooftop apartment in a building constructed during the Yugoslav era. In the communal and narrow stairwell, one could smell the scent of masonry, concrete, and mildew. I don’t know if this is characteristic of buildings from the Yugoslav period, or if this scent was only present in this particular building. But I spent a good amount of time inhaling the air, trying to understand where exactly I had ended up and what this scent could tell me about this place.
6. Scent of Onions and Meat (Ćevapi)
Although I no longer eat meat, I accidentally encountered the scent of ćevapi, filled with the aroma of grilled minced meat and onions. This scent testifies to the culinary history of the Balkans. This scent could also mark a bygone era when people consumed a lot of meat, especially minced beef. I believe that Europe could change, and we will consume less meat. I chose the most popular ćevapi place in Sarajevo based on Google recommendations.
As additional scents I would like to return and try to record are the scent of roses in courtyards and the scent of lilies. These scents were recommended to me by local residents. Roses are widely grown and used for both aesthetic and culinary purposes. Lilies have a cultural and historical significance for Bosnians, as they are found on their first flag. Therefore, I would like to record the scent of lilies and attach it to a photograph of the Bosnian flag.
