The textile industry is ripe for sustainable innovation
When many of us think about combating climate change, we usually think about fixing the energy industry or agriculture. We think about phasing out coal or reducing methane from cattle. We think about switching more as more gasoline cars to electric or finding more sustainable biofuels to power our transportation.
We need all these transitions, but they comprise only part of the picture.
We have to also prioritize sustainable transitions for industries that derive much of their products from fossil fuels. Many of these industries exist, and textiles are a prime example.
Most textiles and clothing derive from either plant matter (like cotton or bamboo) or fossil fuels (like nylon and polyester). We have the opportunity, therefore, to improve textile sustainability through better agricultural methods and the replacement of fossil fuel as the base of production.
In 2013, The European Union Retail Forum for Sustainability compiled the environmental impacts of textiles production supply chain:
Agriculture for Plant-based Textiles
Significant water use, toxicity from fertilizer, pesticide and herbicide use, energy use, and GHG emissions.
Fossil Fuel Processing (Polyester and Nylon Production)
Energy use, resource depletion, and GHG emissions.
Dying and Washing
Energy use, greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, and toxic chemicals entering the environment.
Production Processes
Water use, toxicity, and hazardous waste — including pre-treatment chemicals, dyes, and finishes.
In essence, textile’s environmental impact boils down to water, carbon, and chemicals.
And, luckily, we have companies focused on addressing these impacts.
For example, Evrnu, based in Seattle, recycles fiber and textile waste into new fiber. In doing so, they reduce the need for new fiber production. From their website, they…
“do this with 98% less water than it takes to make traditional cotton fiber and with 90% reduced CO2 emissions compared to polyester production.”
While this innovation addresses the recycling and production of new textiles and clothing, it doesn’t address the production of the initial fiber.
As another example, Bolt Threads, a startup in California, converts plant matter into a fiber that mimics the strength of spider silk. Their work is important for two reasons:
- Spider silk has incredible strength, so much so that people often compare it to steel. While its stiffness is not quite as high as steel, its strength presents the opportunity for new, stronger, and more durable textiles.
- Plants absorb and potentially sequester carbon dioxide as they grow. Moving petroleum-based textiles towards plant-based textiles provides additional carbon dioxide reductions depending on the plant matter used.
Companies like these help us address the water use and carbon emissions related to textile production. Stepping back to the supply-chain level, we have companies like Bluesign promoting sustainability for companies throughout the chain, including chemical use and disposal. They also have created a certification system for companies to ensure they use safe chemicals and employ safe labor practices.
Clean technology continues to make progress on many fronts and in many industries. With companies like the ones mentioned, we can make meaningful progress decarbonizing the textile industry.
