“Clothing of the Wind”

Michael Hurt
Seoulacious Magazine
3 min readNov 11, 2022
Golden Needle Hanbok by designer Kim Yeong-mi. Photo by Michael Hurt.

Even though I spoke in the recent event at George Washington University called Korean Fashion: From Royal Court to Runway,” I had NO idea that this hanbok I picked up used on Dangeun Market was of one of THE most famous hanboks EVER made, debuted by Lee Young Hee at 1993 Paris Fashion Week, until one of my esteemed colleagues from the colloquium educated me on it in her presentation, and I also realized was on display in our event’s exhibition. So I made the connection late, and realized the deep why behind it being a favorite piece in my little studio’s repertoire of fancy, photographable duds.

Model @kkojsun, smartly channels the “clothing of the wind” motif, in the city of Seoul, in context.
The Colloquium.
Lee Young Hee’s “Clothing of the Wind” hanbok dress, which debuted in 1993 at Paris Fashion Week, on display in the “Korean Fashion: From Royal Court to Runway” exhibition, on view at the GWU Museum and The Textile Museum from August 19 through December 22, 2022.

THIS IS HOW YOU HANBOK.

The knockoff that I picked up used for like $20 was very similar, and quite pretty. I think we did a good job, while also putting it into an edgy, modern, in-the-city context. I have more taste than I give myself credit for.

Consuming Korean culture.

Note: the white, traditional beoseon socks sI replaced with white thin socks, as well as white heels done in a traditional Korean gomushin shoe style, which have a sliiiiightly upturned toe. Along with the pearl choker, also my styling choice, since the model’s neck seemeed to scream for some adornment, as suggested by the dress.

역시, 배달의 민족이다.

Check out the museum description:

“Clothes of the Wind”

Lee Young Hee (1936–2018), 1995

Silk; plain and satin woven, embroidered

The Lee Young-Hee Collection of Daegu National Museum

The original.
The hanbok was sold with a hanbok-style, “traditional” clutch bag.

“At her Paris Fashion Week debut in 1993, Lee Young Hee showcased dresses that were similar to a traditional chima (skirt) but worn without a jeogori (jacket). This bare-shouldered look scandalized hanbok purists, but found great favor among French fashion critics, including Laurence Benaim, who described the garments as costume du vent (“clothing of the wind”). Lee adopted the name “clothing of the wind” for these strapless gowns, and over the next decade created numerous variations of this design in jewel tones created using natural dyes.”

#퇴폐미, hanbokked.

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Michael Hurt
Seoulacious Magazine

A visual sociologist writing, teaching, and shooting in Seoul since 2002.