730DC’s Not a Swamp: Spring Guide
A Seasonal Guide to Nature in D.C.
This newsletter is to help DC residents connect with their surrounding natural environment. Every season there are fascinating changes occurring in our urban forests, parks, and gardens. Paying attention is the first step toward changing our relationships with the shared natural world.
The pandemic has made a lot of us think about connection. To who, what, how are we connected? And how not?
Spring brings changes. If there’s a way for you to connect safely (and locally) to these changes, while following CDC guidelines, then do it. Nature is full of new friends if you play nice. In this seasonal guide, you’ll find:
· Wild blooms in open spaces in greater D.C.
· Nature walk recommendations for uncrowded, quiet strolls.
· Trail etiquette in the time of COVID
· Native plant, garden, and wildlife highlights (Flying squirrels!)
· Interview with Jonathan Kavalier, grounds director at Dumbarton Oaks
· Virtual events/tours list for at-home education
Where the Wild Blooms Are
Closed are some of the city’s most popular parks, including Dumbarton Oaks, Hillwood Estate, National Arboretum, Shenandoah National Park, Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens, and more. But greater D.C. has enough open landscapes and woodsy parks to provide some wild colors through April and May. Here are some ideas:
1) Mountain laurel in Rock Creek Park. This shrub is prevalent in the Appalachians, so it came as a surprise to me to find a wide swath of it in Rock Creek. It looks similar to rhododendron but with smaller leaves. You can find a lot of it up a steep spur of the Valley Trail between Boulder Bridge and the Carter Barron Amphitheater. They will possibly bloom in late April to mid-May, but it’s hard to say now (thanks, climate change).
2) Mimosa trees. It’s more than a drink — it’s also a prominent tree in the south, although it doesn’t fare too badly this far north. It has a silky-stamen’ed pink flower (aka Persian Silk Tree, Albizia julibrissin), reminiscent of Dr. Seuss’s truffala trees. Look for its pom-pom blossoms along Anacostia Park and the bottom of Rock Creek.
3) Rhododendron in Dumbarton Oaks Park Conservancy. A showy shrub, similar to mountain laurel (same genus). While Dumbarton Oaks Museum and Gardens is closed, the park behind the gardens is open, and it was a pastoral farmland before the pioneering gardening architect Beatrix Farrand turned it into a scenic semi-wilderness. The idea was to descend from a formal garden into something more wild in the valley below. She planted rhododendrons along the stream that Dumbarton Oaks Park Conservancy has replanted and maintained in fidelity to Farrand’s original plans. They often bloom in June, although the warm season could open them in May.
4) Look low for lil’ wildflowers like common violet, chickweed, dandelions, and blue bells. For blue bells, blooming now, check Rock Creek Park (just below the Boundary Bridge), Great Falls Park (MD-closed, VA-parking lot closed), C&0 Canal, or further out, Blue Bell trail in Bull Run Regional Park. They carpet the ground in wonderful clusters of hanging bell-shaped flowers.
5) May apple . It’s a small plant that covers many damp forest floors in spring and blooms showy white flowers in May (hence the name).
Navigating Trails: Recommended Trails and Green Spaces for a Quiet Walk
D.C. is under stay-at-home orders with “allowable recreational activities” being a reason to get out. Avoid crowded exercise trails and consider a quiet walk in these spots:
1) U.S. Capitol Grounds. Congressional staffers are working from home. Tourists are (mostly) absent. And the capitol grounds host the city’s best collection of trees outside the National Arboretum (in my opinion). Giant Sequoias, Japanese pagodas, a giant pecan, and lots of sunny lawn space. There’s even a spotty government app to guide you. Beyond the lawns, Bartholdi Park is a pleasant mix between formal and modern gardens; the U.S. Botanic Garden’s front patio is open for a peek; and those missing the azaleas in National Arboretum can stroll lanes of hot pink azaleas underscoring the yoshino cherry trees in Lower Senate Park.
2) Cemeteries. While recreation is discouraged in cemeteries, peaceful walks are not. Our city’s large cemeteries feature unique gravestones and landscaping, while offering a proper space to process some collective grief. My favorites include Glenwood Cemetery, The Oak Hill Cemetery (bring a copy of Lincoln in the Bardo), and Rock Creek Cemetery.
3) Kingman Island and Heritage Island. I went on a sunny Sunday afternoon and counted only a handful people in hours. It’s a great place to check out the current parade of migrating birds, run in the open field (while imagining Bluegrass fest), and stroll its wetland collection of banks, meadows, and thickets.
4) Fort Dupont Park. At 376 acres, Fort Dupont Park is SE’s biggest wooded space, and a habitat for diverse wildlife (see below: flying squirrels). It’s a bright gem of multi-use green space in DC, even when Rare Essence isn’t rocking it out during a summer concert (and even though the pancake house isn’t open at 3 in the morning right now). But back to the point: flying squirrels and wild turkeys live there. It’s a gem.
5) University campuses. American University is a registered arboretum with the best-looking scarlet oak in town, as well as cool international selections and the prettiest scarlet oak in town (D.C.’s official tree). Meanwhile, University of Maryland’s campus is a Level IV accredited arboretum. Just be respectful and considerate about your presence on any campus.
6) Explore a new trail in Rock Creek Park. Avoid the narrow exercise trial, especially south of the zoo. My favorite is the Western Ridge Trail, especially north of Military Road. It’s gorgeous, lined with tulip trees, and wider than a wagon to allow for safe passing.
7) Most national parks are closed. Design your own quiet hike across town using Fort Circle Park/Marvin Gaye trails or Rock Creek Park/Glover-Archibald/Battery Kemble or others. Our city is blessed with trails.
Trail Etiquette
There are no official guidelines for trail etiquette in the time of COVID. But etiquette has always been based on common sense courtesies. In that spirit, here are my common sense suggestions:
1) No groups. Hike alone or with your quarantine buddy.
2) Give space. When crossing another trail user, step off the trail to allow six feet to pass. Be careful you don’t step on something living (like may apple).
3) Step aside. If a trail user appears older or less mobile than you, step aside to give them space to pass safely. Otherwise, default to mountain trail etiquette — people going down should stop and step aside for up-hikers. Or simply step aside for anyone not stepping aside for you (looking at you, trail runners).
4) Passing. If passing from behind, pass on the left (6 feet).
5) Dogs on leash, please.
6) Don’t hug strangers. Hug trees.
7) Be prepared, and follow up. When out, bring necessary supplies, follow guidelines, be safe. Upon return, clean up, change clothes, shower.
Native Tree Spotlight: Tulip poplar; tulip tree (Liriodendron tulipifera)
The tulip tree is a delight in all seasons. Its budding leaves decorate the upper urban canopy before beeches and oaks fill the gaps. Soon it showers the forest floor with big yellow flowers ringed in orange. In summer the seed cones (literally a cone, not like a coniferous pine cone) are packed with samaras, visible through winter. There are so many old giants throughout Rock Creek Park, especially on the Western Ridge Trail. The biggest tulip poplar in D.C. is in Montrose Park. Walk halfway down Lover’s Lane toward Dumbarton Oaks Park, and then turn right up the hill to behold the Montrose Park Tulip Poplar, our city’s district species champion at more than 100’ crown spread. According to Howard Youth’s Field Guide to the Natural World of Washington, D.C., it is the second biggest tree in D.C.
Wildlife Spotlight: Flying squirrel
I’m not a scientist, so sometimes I ask myself questions like, “What crazy squirrel first thought, ‘I’m going to f#%!ing fly to that tree over there?’ Is that how evolution works?” Probably not, but at some point, a successful mutant squirrel developed arm flaps (patagium) and now we have big-eyed adorable squirrels that glide through the air. They’ve lived in Maryland for some time (e.g. Wheaton Regional Park), but word around the watercooler is they’re popping up across D.C., especially in Fort Dupont Park in SE. You’ll probably never see them because they’re nocturnal (hence the big eyes), but it’s cool to think about. If we play our ecology cards right, we might expect more in years to come.
Garden Spotlight: Planting for pollinators
Are you anxious about climate change and bees dying and masses of unharvested pollen swaddling the earth? Is your anxiety deepened by a sense of helpless futility? I have a prescription. Plant stuff for pollinators (e.g. bees, bugs, and hummingbirds). It won’t save the earth wholesale, but it’s one of those small, mighty acts that bolster our local ecosystem. If you have garden space, save some room for pretty flowering plants that attract a mix of pollinating agents like bees, hummingbirds, ladybugs, and butterflies. My favorites include herbaceous plants with long blooms like bee balm (Monarda), blue vervain (Verbena), cardinal flowers (Lobelia), mountain mint (Pycnanthemum), black-eyed susans (Rudbeckia), or other cone flowers. Not sure what’s native? The U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service put together a great backyard guide and a more extensive native landscaping guide for the Chesapeake Bay Watershed (that’s us). Pick a plant right for your soil and space, then order seeds online or call a local nursery to order plants for curbside pick-up.
Seven Questions with a Local Green-thumbing Expert:
Jonathan Kavalier is the Director of Gardens and Grounds at Dumbarton Oaks. The historic garden is rated among the best gardens in the world by National Geographic. Previously, he worked with the Architect of the Capitol and also Smithsonian Gardens, curating their tropical plant collection. Dumbarton Oaks is currently closed but check out virtual tours here.
SN: What’s cool about your job?
JK: Of course, working at Dumbarton Oaks is incredible. To be surrounded by so much history and design is truly inspiring. And the people are truly wonderful. Experts in seemingly disparate disciplines discuss their work with passion at lunch, present research reports on their work, and share insights with colleagues from different backgrounds. But beyond that, working in the world of public gardens is incredibly fulfilling. In my role I get to practice servant leadership, removing hurdles and inspiring my staff to think and solve problems creatively. I get to mix the science of horticulture with the art of design and the craft of gardening, making long-term stewardship decisions that will help preserve the garden for generations to come.
SN: What makes DC’s urban forest and garden scene special?
JK: Certainly, Beatrix Farrand plays a pivotal role here. Her genius in seamlessly combining French, English, Italian, and American design principles into her work definitely contribute to the specialness of Dumbarton Oaks. Her attention to detail, designing hundreds of architectural accents and other ornamentation and furniture that still grace the garden, has defined this place as quintessentially Farrand. Additionally, just having a 10 acre public garden in the heart of Georgetown is pretty special. DC is a special place, with lots of open green space and designed landscape that is largely accessible to the public.
SN: What’s been a favorite book or resource that’s helped you and might help others interest in plants, trees, or green spaces?
JK: I’m a huge fan of Doug Tallamy. His book, Bringing Nature Home, changed the way I thought about native plants and designed landscapes. I haven’t read his most recent book yet, but I look forward to it!
SN: If you could be a plant anywhere in DC, what would you be? Where would you be it?
JK: I think I would want to be a tree…probably at Dumbarton Oaks. Perhaps an Oak or Beech. I have always contemplated when planting trees, how many people will sit under them, rest in their shade, enjoy their fall color…How will this tree be doing in 100 years? I would like very much to examine this thought exercise from the opposite perspective.
SN: How has the COVID crisis changed your work in the garden?
JK: It’s been difficult for us. We have closed to the public and halted all public programs, exhibits, and events. We haven’t furloughed any staff, but are teleworking where possible. We have reduced garden staff on site on any given day by over 50% on a rotation in order to de-densify. We are focusing on the most critical garden needs, and prioritizing plant health over aesthetics. At this point we have been able to keep up, but as the weather continues to warm, it will become increasingly difficult
SN: How can the city or its residents do better locally to deal with climate change?
JK: I see a lot of complacency…people who promote sustainability, but then order all their consumables from Amazon. I think people ought to remember that small changes add up. On a local level, this is probably the most impactful thing people can do, other than lobbying their local representatives. Another thing we can do as individuals is help dispel climate change denial. It is real, and it is happening all around us. Having worked in gardens for almost 20 years, I see the effects all the time.
SN: Why are pollinators important? Any favorite pollinators gardeners can plant at home?
JK: I think this is pretty obvious. Anyone with doubts should read Doug Tallamy. There are so many great plants to promote pollinators, and they’re not all obvious. Many of our native trees support incredible levels of biodiversity. For home gardeners, examining gardening practices is equally as important as having the right plants. Attention to chemical inputs, timing of pruning and cutbacks for perennials, and retention habitat and soil microbiology are so important.
SN: Blow our minds with one plant fact.
JK: The Ficus pumilla living in the Orangery at Dumbarton Oaks was planted in the 1860s, making it possibly one of the oldest living house plants in the US. This vine originates in one corner of the Orangery and has been carefully trained against all four walls of the room, with pendulous topiary accents by the windows.
Experience Nature Online (Kind Of)
Nature’s not cancelled, but many events are (through April). Virtual events/tours include:
· The Climate Music Project (April 22nd)
· Art + Environment panel discussion (April 23rd)
· DPR’s Basics of urban gardening course (May 5–7)
· Casey Trees: “Your City, Your Trees” webinar
· National Park Service — Find Your “Virtual” Park
· Dumbarton Oaks — Explore the garden online
· Become a backyard birder (see end of all article for free resources)
· Want more? Sign up for D.C. Urban Growers (DUG) Network’s newsletter. It’s a comprehensive resource connecting overlooked dots between social & social environmental justice issues.
Socially-distant stewardship with Rock Creek Conservancy:
· Destroy English Ivy — English ivy is one of those invasive monsters…once you see it (with accurate identification skills), you can’t unsee it. You will begin to see it everywhere; you will feel like it is overtaking your parks, trees, and city like some kind of viney-blob-Godzilla-monster. Fight back. Carry hand clippers on your walks. Cut low. Cut high. Destroy English ivy. But first learn how to make sure you’re doing it right.
Follow Sam Nelson for more tree stuff @treegazing on IG or on Medium or Twitter @samwriteteach. Let us know your favorite spots; and thanks for reading. Check back in June for the summer edition. Stay safe!
