At San Francisco Cooking School we say often that we train cooks, not chefs. But, what’s the difference? In this How a Cook Becomes a Chef series, we ask some of our favorite chefs their thoughts on the matter.
William Werner, chef of Craftsman and Wolves, is at the helm of one of San Francisco’s most exciting contemporary pastry shops. His creations are equal parts taste and beauty — they’ve always got that certain CAW style and they never fail to garner a few moments of visual appreciation before getting demolished with pleasure.
A field trip to the CAW kitchen is always a highlight for our pastry students. They get to peek inside the inner workings of Werner’s creative machine and see what production really looks like on a day to day basis. Werner is a big believer in the mentorship and education of aspiring pastry chefs. Here’s what he had to say about moving on up in the pastry world.
What differentiates a cook and a chef?
“As a cook, you need to invest yourself in this career. It is constantly changing and highly competitive with very little compensation until you reach the top.
So your time as a cook is preparatory for the road that lies ahead — becoming a chef (which is more than great knife skills, interesting techniques, and a padded resume). To be a chef is to be the conductor of a temperamental symphony that has to deliver repeatedly with precision and grace to an unyielding audience. If the tempo is off, the score not right, instruments not finally tuned, it can be disastrous. And should the crowd leave disappointed, the shoulders it falls upon is yours.”
Looking at the progress of your own career, at what point did you consider yourself a chef?
“I believe the second year of my first executive pastry chef job with The Ritz Carlton was when I made the turn. All the lessons of the first chef job were learned, mainly the hard way. The trial by fire had ended and I had assembled a strong team that worked well together, were passionate about the industry, and wanted to become chefs themselves. The realization of being a chef came to me from this amazing feeling — inspiring others to do well, and leading a team of individuals who believe in and support your vision.”
What can a young cook do to become a great chef?
“A cook should be looking for mentors who will not only teach great technique and creativity, but will demonstrate great leadership and support. Mentors who will push you to consistently deliver great performances. As with any craft, the more time and energy you put into it the greater the results will be.
Learn everything you can, pay close attention to what is happening around you, not just in front of you. Never forget the kitchen is a team, and with hard work and perseverance one day the team will be looking to you for leadership.”
