Take Me to the Farmer’s Market
The Dekalb Farmers Market has been a cultural icon since its inception over 40 years ago. Founded in 1977 by Robert Blazer, the market is one of many found around metro Atlanta and the surrounding areas.
Their website emphasizes that they’re “all about bringing the world of food and people together,” and impressively employs people from “more than 40 countries, speaking in 50 different languages and dialects.” Their clientele is equally as diverse, and one trip to the market truly feels like a cultural experience akin to rushing through several nations in a matter of hour — or minutes, if you can resist the temptation of browsing the broad variety of products stretching through the aisles.
Located ten minutes away from Decatur and situation on East Ponce De Leon, it is by far the most convenient place for regular Louis Farinella to access fresh produce, homemade bread, high quality seafood and meat and his favorite, a dedicated cheese section. “It’s pretty incredible, being able to find authentic pierogies, Italian focaccia, and Korean pears just steps away from each other,” says Farinella. “It’s just a great place to be, because you see all these people from all over the world getting along and sharing their food and their culture.”
The self-described “world market” most eye-catching décor are the 184 flags from countries around the world hanging from the ceiling, and each employee proudly carries their name and country of origin on their nametags. Jacinta, a young Guatemalan woman who works at the pastry counter, mentioned that while it is sometimes hard to get along with people in Atlanta, the people she interacts with at the market are “so friendly and genuinely interested in trying new things.” She declined to comment further when asked to elaborate, a common occurrence when other employees were asked to comment for this piece.
A 2018 article from Voice of America highlighted how immigrants catalysed the revival of farmer’s markets in the U.S. Often hailing from countries where local markets are the norm, immigrants arriving in America invigorated the community — providing a platform for local farmers and local vendors who come from migrant communities to sell their products, and to purchase items from others as well.
More recently, the Atlanta Journal Constitution published an article inviting readers to “Meet the ethnic chefs building their businesses at metro Atlanta farmers markets.” Avondale Estates Farmers Market marketing manager Jennifer Joyner told AJC that “We love offering culturally authentic foods and things that are unlike what we’ve ever offered.” Farmers markets thrive on offering products that one wouldn’t find at your local Kroger or Publix, and while larger groceries stores have begun to offer limited selections of foreign favorites like jars of butter chicken simmer sauce, it can’t quite compete with the home-made version made by desi aunties in their kitchens.
Born and raised in Barbados, Alyssa Inniss-Gittens acknowledges her biased preference towards more internationally-focused stores. “There aren’t really any Bajan stores here in Atlanta,” said the Atlanta-based Gittens. “But I can find things like tamarind candies at Dekalb. I’ve become friends with a few other natives who work at the market, and it makes me feel more at home.”
People from different walks of life find a home at markets like Dekalb, whether home is finding the people you are familiar with or the smell of warm bread. It is, to many immigrants, what America is supposed to be: “When people from other countries hear about America, we imagine good opportunities and people being peaceful,” said Gittens. Unfortunately, in a time of rising cultural tension and political division, this is sometimes the furthest thing from the truth. But maybe, just maybe, we can learn to co-exist and let watermelon prices be our biggest problem.
