FANATEC QR2 Base-Side (Type-M) and QR2 Wheel-Side Review | MASK | Blog |
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The FANATEC website was updated around 21:30 on Monday, September 25, 2023, and a new quick release was sold. I had a hard time logging in at night, so I purchased it at noon the next day. This time, I am reviewing at my own expense. I would be happy if this could be of some help to you.
There are three types of quick releases on the steering wheel: PRO, regular, and Lite. As for the Wheelbase-side, there are two types : Type-C and Type-M.
This time, I purchased QR2 Base-Side (Type-M) and QR2 Wheel-Side, and the bundle price is $199.95. The type-M is compatible with Podium DD1/DD2 (Also, Podium Formula Wheel F1).
For CSL DD/GT DD PRO, you need to select a model of QR2 Base-Side (Type-C) on the wheelbase side. , it costs $69.95 individually. The price is easier to introduce than Type-M($149.95).
FANATEC QR2 Base-Side
This link is for the wheelbase side QR2 (Type-M) for those who have Fanatec DD2/DD1/DD1 for PlayStation: PODIUM RACING WHEEL F1.
For CSL DD\GT DD PRO, QR2 Base-Side(Type-M) Instead, the following QR2 Base-Side (Type-C) is required.
FANATEC QR2 Wheel-Side
This time, I plan to install the QR2 on my Formula V2, BMW GT2 V2, and GT DD PRO. Wheel-Side.
There are also PRO and Lite. PRO is machined from an aluminum block and has a surface treatment. I feel like it’s over-spec for simulator racing, but it looks beautiful and is FIA compliant.
The cost of QR2 Lite is low. But the material is reinforced fiber plastic. Therefore, high torque mode (for Podium DD1/DD2 &Clubsport DD/DD+ ) cannot be used with QR2 Lite. Also, this can only used for “CSL” wheels. My Formula V2, BMW M2 V2 steering wheels cannot be applied.
This time, I’m using the middle model, which is processed by aluminum casting.
If you are a CSL DD or GT DD PRO user, there is no need to consider High Torque Mode. So, if you don’t see any bug reports on SNS after a few months, QR2 Lite could be a good option. If you need it soon, I think the metal QR2s are conservative.
Unboxing FANATEC QR2
Let’s unbox the wheel side (left side) of QR2.
The QR2 body, accessories, tools, and instruction manual are included.
The instruction manual is designed so that it can be understood by the diagrams. You can view it by clicking on the “Download” tab on each QR2’s official page and selecting “QR2 Wheel Side Quick Guide.”
Regarding the QR2 Wheel-Side, I purchased the aluminum casting model. Its outer surface has been processed to be rougher (black anodized) than the QR1’s paint.
Furthermore, if you go for the PRO model priced at $199.95, it will have a smoother feel because it has a machined aluminum body.
Of course, even with the standard type I purchased this time, the “inner contact surface” of the quick-release part is processed to be smooth. It seems unlikely that the shaft part of QR2 will be shaved.
The accessories include three hex wrenches. A blue Torx screwdriver and four bolts are also included.
This is the wheelbase side. The shaft carved from the aluminum block looks beautiful. It costs $149.95 as a single item. A manual and a wrench are included.
Weaknesses of DD1 & old QR1
For Podium DD1/DD2
The old quick release of FANATEC Podium DD1/DD2 has an interesting locking mechanism.
After inserting the steering wheel on the base side, users have to tighten the dial toward the steering wheel so that the rubber on the shaft is pressed down by the dial. As a result, the rubber is pressed against the quick-release QR1 in the circumferential direction of the shaft.
The pressing force of the rubber ensures that the connected steering wheel of Podium DD1 is firmly fixed (for the time).
Additionally, there is a hole for a bolt at the bottom of the shaft, allowing the steering side quick release to be bolted onto the shaft.
When Podium DD1 was announced in 2018, there was little competition in the simulator racing world with powerful direct drive wheelbases like Podium DD1 and DD2, so you can imagine this way was revolutionary at the time.
The weak point of this DD1/DD2 old quick release is that if you do not use this locking mechanism without understanding how to use it, or if you forget to use the locking mechanism, the rubber will not be filled into that small “gap’’. Although the five metal balls press down on the shaft with the force of the spring, the torque of DD1/DD2 is strong at a maximum of 20Nm/25Nm. Depending on the settings, the FFB can overcome the force of the metal ball and the shaft may move slightly.
If you continue to use it without realizing it, you may feel something strange and end up repeatedly applying force to the 13 pins on the steering wheel. Even if the force is small, if forces are applied repeatedly to the pins, the pin may break due to metal fatigue.
Reference information: The QR1 sometimes made a clicking sound when it was returned to its original position after applying the fairly heavy torque of the DD1’s full power.
I think it is because when a heavy torque is applied, the iron ball inside is pushed up slightly, and when the torque is removed, it returns to its original position due to the spring force. When I asked FANATEC, they instructed me to apply grease, and when I did that, the sound stopped. It’s strange. Please check the below link.
Though I have visited various SIM shops, I couldn’t find any shops applied much torque. If you play with the maximum torque of Podium DD1/DD2, you won’t be able to complete the curve due to over torque compared to your strength.
If you are using QR1 for CSL DD/GT DD PRO/CSW
The photo below is a photo of the shaft part of GT DD PRO.
Due to the 8Nm max torque of CSL DD, GT DD PRO, and CSW, the QR1 shaft part does not have a locking mechanism that presses against the rubber used in DD1/DD2.
Fit it along the groove on the top, and the five iron balls of QR1 press down on the shaft with the force of the spring, and the fixation is completed.
The QR1 is made of a metal shaft, so depending on the individual, there may be some combinations that create a “gap” between the shaft and the QR1 on the steering side. Basically, it is designed that five metal balls press down the shaft by the spring force, but if the “gap” between the shaft and QR1 is large and the steering moves, the steering side pins will have some forces repeatedly.
Therefore, although the instruction manual says that it’s basically unnecessary, I prefer tightening the bolts between the steering wheel and the shaft, so that problems such as broken pins don’t occur. There is a hole for a bolt on the bottom of the shaft of QR1.
However, some people may find it disappointing that if you tighten the bolt on QR1 to avoid risk, you feel this quick release is not “quick” when compared to emerging products.
Please note: Wheelbase, CSW does not support QR2.
You can read the FANATEC GT DD PRO review below.
If you are using QR1 Lite
I used two steering wheels that came with the QR1 Lite.
The shaft side of the QR1 Lite’s wheelbase is made of metal, but the steering side is made of reinforced fiber plastic. This reinforced fiber plastic is used, for example, in the specially designed steering wheel for the PlayStation Gran Turismo that comes with the GT DD PRO.
Regarding the steering for Gran Turismo, I also mentioned the problems with the QR1 Lite in my review article.
My steering wheel was not able to absorb the 8Nm of torque, and it was confirmed that the steering wheel moved with a slight delay after the shaft rotation movement.
That would be fine if it was a children’s toy, but I bought a direct drive to get a more realistic feeling, but that makes it less direct. Also, I am concerned about the stress on the pins mentioned above. When I took measures to eliminate the gaps by adding a little bit of tape to the shaft side, that unnaturalness disappeared. This way can be used as a toy, but I think FANATEC direct drive is a hobby tool for adults.
As such, I think you’ll want to at least upgrade to the metal QR1, which is sold as an optional item for a certain steering wheel.
Since 2021, the direct drive steering controller market has been activated
After the release of FANATEC’s CSL DD in 2021, existing manufacturers have followed suit. Emerging manufacturers are also releasing products that compensate for the weaknesses of existing steering wheel controllers.
For example, FANATEC has 5 iron balls in the quick-release part, while MOZA, etc. uses 10 iron balls.
Although MOZA does not have a mechanism to tighten bolts, I found it to be more rigid than the old FANATEC QR1.
According to FANATEC's official Youtube, Podium DD1/DD2 was announced in July 2018.
It seems that. When QR1 was introduced, QR1 was designed to be used for CSL and CSW, so I guess that was fine at that time. However, after introducing Podium DD1/DD2, they might realize that QR1 was weak.
FANATEC announced the BMW M4 GT3 steering wheel using QR2 in December 2020.
The wheel has been wearing the QR2 since then. The QR2 was released on September 25, 2023, so it has been less than three years since the BMW M4 GT3 steering wheel was announced.
That means I expected that QR2 has been tested in various ways over a long period of time, so I purchased the following combination of products, although it is an initial lot.
FANATEC QR2(M-Type) Wheelbase side installation
There’s the instruction manual for QR2 (M-Type). Please check “Download” on the QR2 official page if you need to.
There are two things you need to be careful about here.
- Does not damage wiring.
- Tighten with a torque of 10Nm.
Disassembly of FANATEC Podium DD1
First, I loosened the black metal bolt that tightened the shaft of Podium DD1. This can be done using the tools included with QR2. The black metal fittings are fixed with two bolts, but all you have to do is loosen one bolt.
When you slowly pull out the golden QR1, you can see the coiled cable.
The cable inside Podium DD1 (DD2) is inserted and the codes are twisted itself. This is how it was originally designed and installed.
When you turn the steering wheel, the cables rotate with the shaft, so no matter how much you turn the steering wheel in one direction, they will not break.
To unwind this coiled cable, rotate the QR1 in the opposite direction about 10 times and slowly pull it until the cable becomes straight.
Two connectors will appear like this, so disconnect each one. Each is locked with a claw, so you have to pull it while releasing it.
Then, you can get QR1.
I think if you know how to do it, you can get it out in about 5 minutes. I didn’t find it that difficult, but it might be a pain for people who don’t like this type of work.
Connecting QR2 (wheelbase side) to FANATEC Podium DD1
Connect the QR2 cable in reverse order. Connect the QR2’s short cable to the long cable coming out of Podium DD1, and the QR2’s long cable to the Podium DD1’s short cable.
Then, twist the cable around 10 times to gather the cables and push them in.
Gently insert it into the QR2 wheelbase side. This also doesn’t require much force.
I mistakenly installed like left side above.
Please don’t press the black metal collar too much against the wheelbase side, the black metal fittings will rub against the wheelbase when you turn the steering wheel, making it uncomfortable. Bring the black metal fitting toward you until it touches QR2. Below is the proper position.
To securely hold the QR2, align the notch in the shaft on the wheelbase side and the notch in the black metal fittings so that they are parallel and snug.
At this time, it will be better to orient the QR2 unit according to the instructions, as it will look better after installation. Even if the orientation of the QR2 is slightly off, it is actually not a problem as it can be centered using the calibration on the FANATEC driver side.
Once you have aligned it to this point, you must tighten it to 10Nm as specified in the instruction manual.
I think many people are having trouble here, so I will write about 10Nm. to come.
To put it simply, the included wrench is 10cm long, so if you apply 10kg of force at the very end of the wrench, it will move approximately It is 10Nm.
There are two bolts, so tighten them both with the same amount of force and the wheelbase side is complete.
What is the 10Nm required by FANATEC?
If you have a hexagonal wrench, at a distance of 10cm = 0.1m from the bolt,
If you apply a force of 10kg = 98N, then 98N x 0.1m = 9.8Nm (approximately 10Nm).
How much is 10kg? If so, why not try pressing your finger on the scale to get a feel for it? I think.
Also, if you have a 20cm hexagonal wrench, if you apply a 5kg weight to the 20cm point, the force will be 10Nm.
I’d be scared if the “torque police” were there, so I won’t write about whether I did it by feeling or if I used a torque wrench lol.
For now, if you apply a force of 10 kg at a point 10 cm from the bolt, the force will be approximately 10 Nm.
There are also hex wrenches with this kind of torque management function.
FANATEC QR2 Wheel-side installation
I would like to write this chapter while supplementing the instruction manual based on my experience. Regarding the QR2 manual, you can view it by clicking on the “Download” tab on each QR2’s official page and selecting “QR2 Wheel Side Quick Guide.”
First of all, here is a picture that bothers us a little. At the left side, this is for people who bought a steering wheel for the first time.
(Left) If you purchased a new product that does not have a quick release at all, first remove the cap that protects the pin.
(Right) If the old QR1 is already attached, remove the bolt.
I had to follow the right side. I removed the QR1 bolt.
Even if it is a little stiff, the quick release and steering part is not fixed with adhesive, so after removing the bolts, you can pull the QR1 and it will come off.
After that, another slightly difficult diagram appears lol
First, remove the existing bolts using the hex wrench provided. The bolts are loosened with very little force.
The thin metal spacer used around the terminal pins on my Formula V2 steering. I think this is probably for steering wheels with metal QR1. (In the case of the Gran Turismo steering wheel with QR1 Lite, this is already a plastic spacer. In that case, this work is not necessary.)
Then you can remove the thin metal plate.
Next, you need to attach the plastic spacer included with the new product using the new four bolts in the QR2 package.
The holes for the supplied bolts are star-shaped Torx screws, so please use the special T10 blue screwdriver that is included.
Please note you should tighten with the torque limit of “1Nm”.
When installing QR2 to DD1, I explained about the strength of 10Nm. In this case, the material is plastic, and I think that 1Nm should be enough to tighten it just enough to make it hard using only your fingertips.
However, if you are concerned about this, the only option is to purchase a torque wrench, but I get the impression that many of the 1Nm ones are expensive.
Finally, connect the metal part of QR2 to the steering wheel.
Torque information also appears here. It is written as 3Nm. At the end of a 10cm hex wrench, If you apply a force of about 3kg, it will be about 3Nm.
By the way, QR2 has an upper and lower side. If you try to install it the opposite way, you’ll find out right away that it won’t connect.
So, insert the bolt and tighten it to about 3Nm and you’re done.
Appearance from above.
FANATEC QR2 Review
Attaching FANATEC QR2
I completed to installation QR2 on both the wheelbase and steering wheel. Now I can review the QR2.
When I tried using a quick release, it fits easily with a fairly light force.
As for how light it is, by holding the grip with one hand, you can insert it with just a little force. I can insert it with my right hand while taking pictures with my smartphone with my left hand. Although the QR2 fits easily, no matter how much I pull it, the steering wheel won’t come out. It’s a very mysterious feeling. As QR2 had not been released for several years, so it seems no fault for now. (Of course, installing QR2 is some burden for users…)
When you push the steering wheel all the way in, the two rods on the steering wheel fit into the grooves due to the force of the springs, making a very soft sound.
When the steering wheel is inserted, it goes in smoothly. I think this is because the contact surface between the wheelbase side QR2 surface and the QR2 steering side surface is smooth.
To maintain this fit, the instruction manual on the wheelbase side says to wipe it with a clean cloth or something after connecting it 100 times.
About FANATEC steering pins
During the QR1 era, people would sometimes post information on SNS about a broken pin on the FANATEC steering side terminals. Now that it’s QR2, I think it’s much less likely that excessive force is applied to the pin while driving.
However, it is true that there are still pins. If more force than expected is applied to it, it may bend or break, so please be careful when handling it.
Also, when we connect QR2, I am also curious about the insertion angle toward the steering pins. I tried inserting and removing it from various angles, but the pins were not bent in any strange way after I removed them. I believe that the steering wheel and wheelbase are vertical just before inserting it. But I would like to check the internal dimensions a little more and verify and confirm how the pin will fit in.
Does FANATEC QR2 have any flex?
In the case of QR1, the QR1 was held by the metal at the tip of the shaft, 5 iron balls, and some rubber repulsive force. Since there is a rubber support between the shaft and QR1, I could feel the rubber slightly when I tried to move it a little. Some people who are looking for high rigidity might be disappointed at this feeling of rubber.
As for QR2, there is no such kind of flex and feeling at all with the following set that I introduced for Podium DD1. (CSL DD/GT DD PRO requires Type-C model for wheelbase side)
Even if you push the steering wheel left, right, up, or down, the quick-release part will not move. As for QR2, I wonder how it is possible to do so much with just metal surfaces and two rods.
As this quick release is highly rigid, you will probably be concerned about the rigidity of the steering and the rigidity of the cockpit. So those who are introducing the QR2 should consider using highly rigid items in order to feel QR2’s benefits.
I think you’ll enjoy QR2 even more if you choose a high-rigid steering wheel and a sturdy cockpit.
Regarding releasing of FANATEC QR2
When we release QR2, by pulling the protrusion towards us, the two pillars would move and the lock would be released, allowing us to remove it easily.
When I pull this lever, the rough surfaces of the castings come in contact with each other, giving it a rough feel.
The rough location has nothing to do with the contact surface with the QR2’s shaft, so I don’t think it will affect driving at all, but it may be a point of concern for those who like a smooth, slippery feel. yeah. I think maniacs or wealthy people should choose PRO to have a comfortable feeling.
Before we get into the summary
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FANATEC QR2 Summary
- The wheelbase side, QR2 Base-Side (Type-M) that I purchased this time is for Podium DD1/DD2. Please note that CSL DD/GT DD PRO users need to purchase QR2 Type-C.
- It is not impossible to install the QR2 if you can remove bolts using hex nuts and if you do not handle the wiring roughly.
- There are required torques for tightening both the wheelbase and steering such as 10Nm, 3Nm, 1Nm. Torque must be managed during installation, so you need to be careful. This article shows guidelines for how to apply required torque, but please use this information as a reference at your own risk.
- There are two types of metal QR2 Wheel-Sides. There is a basic model made of cast aluminum that I purchased this time and a PRO model that is machined from an aluminum block and compliance with FIA standards. The aluminum cast model has a rough black alumite finish on the exterior, so it doesn’t feel as luxurious as PRO. On the other hand, the PRO model has a gold color and a smooth appearance.
- Even in the standard cast aluminum model, the contact surface of the quick release is smooth, so there is no problem with its function in simulator racing, and there should be no big difference between the standard model and the PRO.
- During connection, QR2 is smooth and slippery and fits perfectly. And you won’t have to worry about flex. Users will feel that the steering wheel is firmly connected to the shaft. I guess this sense of rigidity was created by the increased contact surface between the shaft and quick release due to the design change.
- Similar to the QR1, the QR2 is designed to have pins on the steering wheel and exchange signals between the wheelbase and steering wheel.
- The new QR2 is designed to be firmly connected vertically, and I think it puts less stress on the pins during driving compared to the QR1s, but I would like to continue verifying this over the long term.
- If you ask me if you need to change from QR1 to QR2 right away, I would say that if you don’t have any problems with QR1, then QR1 is fine for now. However, if you use QR2, there will be no need to tighten bolts under the QR1 at all, which will improve convenience, and I think you will be able to experience the rigidity. Please think about buying when you want or you have enough money or when purchasing a second steering wheel.
- There is another “QR2 Lite” made of reinforced fiber plastic. If you are using CSL DD/GT DD PRO, I think it would be best to wait a few months and make sure there are no negative reports about QR2 Lite on social media before making a purchase. (If you are a Podium DD1/DD2 user, the torque will be reduced if you use the QR2 Lite, so I think it is better to use one of the standard or PRO QR2s.)
