Surviving Acne
Written by Munirah Yaqoub
Hello, it’s your friendly neighborhood health columnist reporting for duty. My choice of words for this title sounds a bit more dramatic than it should but, what’s life without a bit of drama, right?
Today, we’re talking about acne.
Interestingly, while researching this topic, I found out that what we call “fungal acne” is NOT acne; it’s a skin condition called pityrosporum folliculitis, an infection to the hair follicle that looks like pimples but isn’t. This means that the products you’d ordinarily use for acne cannot be used for “aunty fungus” as they won’t work and may even worsen your condition.
So, what is acne?
It is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that causes spots and pimples, especially on one’s face, shoulders, back, chest, neck, and upper arms. It’s like this; the skin has many tiny pores that may become blocked by oil, bacteria, dead skin cells, or dirt. When this happens, you may develop a pimple; but, when you get pimples often, especially several at once repeatedly, you may then be said to have acne. Get it? Acne is very common, especially in teenagers and youths. According to a report in the National Library of Medicine, it affects an estimated 9.4% of people globally, and the severity ranges from mild to severe acne.
Acne can be classified into inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne.
Non-inflammatory acne doesn’t usually cause swelling and typically responds to over-the-counter medication. It includes blackheads and whiteheads. Blackheads (open comedones) occur when a pore is clogged by both oil and dead skin cells. The top of the pore stays open, despite the rest of it being clogged, and when it comes in contact with oxygen, it becomes dark. Whiteheads (closed comedones) are also caused by pores clogged with both oil and dead skin cells but unlike blackheads, the entire pore is closed giving it a skin complexion.
Inflammatory acne is usually painful and pus-filled. It includes papules which are small, pink, raised, painful bumps caused by infected or inflamed hair follicles; pustules which are small red pimples with pus at their tips caused when the walls of the pores break down from inflammation; solid nodules, painful lumps deep under the skin surface and occur when clogged, swollen pores endure further irritation and grow larger; and cysts which are large, painful, pus-filled, red or white bumps beneath the skin formed by a combination of bacteria, sebum, and dead skin cells. Sometimes, you may notice a mix of acne types on your skin, like a disgusting cocktail.
Typically, acne is caused by the blocking of your skin pores with oil, dead skin cells, or bacteria. Each skin pore opens to a follicle, which is made up of hair and a sebaceous (oil) gland. This gland releases oil which travels up the hair, out of the pore, and onto your skin, helping to keep the skin lubricated and soft. One or more mishaps in this process, such as the follicles producing too much oil, build-up of bacteria, or dead skin cells in the pores, may cause acne.
Other risk factors for acne include hormonal changes due to pregnancy or puberty, stress, PCOS or other hormonal conditions, cigarette smoking, poor sleep, family history of acne, certain medications such as birth control pills, skincare products with high oil content, tight or suffocating clothing materials, such as a tight headband or face masks, poor diet, etc.
Most women with acne developed it during puberty. At this stage, the body undergoes many hormonal changes which can trigger oil production and lead to acne. As I said, it’s normal and you don’t need to feel ashamed of it. It’s a process that eventually gets better with time and you shouldn’t feel bad just because your friend is not going through the same process. It would be a lie to say that acne does not damage your self-esteem. I mean, your face was perfect one day and the next day you wake up with a pimple, and more keep coming as the days go by. For someone who has battled with acne for over 10 years, believe me when I say that some days are hard. But, it did get better as time passed and I hope the same happens for you too.
Treatment of acne would usually depend on its cause and severity. Mild acne is where you have a few comedones on your skin, and may include a few pustules and papules as well. Moderate acne is where you have multiple comedones on your skin, while severe acne is where your skin is filled with multiple inflammatory acne types and usually covers most parts of the body.
Before attempting to self-treat your acne, it is important to consult a dermatologist to discover the exact type and cause of your acne. Typical products used in combatting acne include antibiotics, OTC medicated creams, cleansers, and spot treatments; these products usually contain ingredients such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, niacinamide, retinol, etc. which are active acne fighters. Your dermatologist may also recommend certain procedures to treat severe acne such as dermabrasions which remove the top layers of your skin with a rotating brush and help treat acne scarring; photodynamic therapy (PDT) which uses medication and a special light or laser to reduce oil production and bacteria; chemical peels which remove the top skin layers to reveal less damaged skin underneath; and cortisone injections which help reduce inflammation and speed healing.
Treatment for acne caused by suffocating clothing or diet, remedies would include wearing breathable fabrics and a change of diet, amongst others. Other remedies include the use of tea tree oils, and aloe vera, practicing self-care to reduce stress, eating a healthy and balanced, ensuring you get proper sleep, avoiding touching your face, and avoiding popping your pimples (I’m side-eyeing all of you who do), being religious with your skincare routine and just being patient with your skin. Over manipulation of your skin with different products and procedures may only make things worse. Skincare is not magic, it takes time and you need to give your skin that time to remedy itself.
Acne can be tough to deal with. Once a pimple develops, it can take a few days, weeks, or months before it completely clears up. At times, you may not be able to completely cure your acne because your hormones are doing their thing and that acne will just keep coming back. At this point, you’re only trying to contain or manage the acne, which is very frustrating. But once again, it’s important to understand that surviving acne is a process, some longer than the next person, and you must trust that process while treating it religiously. It’s not magic and really cannot be no matter how hard you try.
Key points:
- Acne is caused by an infection or inflammation of the skin.
- Fungal acne is NOT acne and using acne treating products for it may worsen it.
- Acne can be inflammatory or non-inflammatory. It’s important to know the type you have and its severity before attempting to treat it.
- Acne is very treatable. There are several effective treatments available that could help reduce your pimples and minimize scarring.
- Acne may affect your self-esteem but it’s important to not let it get to you too much. It’s completely normal.
- DO NOT pop your pimples. If your hands are restless, get a stress ball and keep them away from your face.
- DO NOT touch your face, especially with dirty hands. Don’t let us fight.
- Avoid over washing your face. This will make your face lose its moisture and may irritate your skin further.
- Find your acne fighter and routine and stick to it. What works for your friend may not work for you. Remember I said it gets frustrating, this is one part where it does. Find your holy grail and stick to it.
- Do not overmanipulate your face. Avoid using multiple products and procedures at the same. Sometimes, “easy does it”.
If anybody clowns or attempts to clown you for having acne, send them to me. I’ll handle them for you.
Till next time, xoxo.
Written by Munirah Yaqoub
Munirah Yaqoub is a law graduate who is passionate about women and children’s rights. You can connect with her on Instagram and Twitter.
Edited by Oluwatobiloba Ganiyu
Female, Editor, Medical student, ambivert, goofball, Christian. Always interested in learning new things. Connect with Oluwatobiloba on Instagram.
Published by Yetunde Onafuye
Yetunde is a storyteller, podcaster, and a graduate student with interest in the social and political history of post-independence Africa. She’s also the co-lead editor at Sisterly HQ. In her free time, she reads and reviews books, engages in social volunteering, and watches tons of dramas and TV shows. Connect with Yetunde on LinkedIn and Instagram.
