The Game Changers’ Mexico City Guide
Our insider’s best adresses
Rodrigo Noriega, designer
Restaurants:
QUINTONIL
“This elegant place has an excellent reputation for high-quality cuisine. It’s the sort of establishment I’d take a client to when I want to sign a deal.”
Av. Isaac Newton 55, Polanco, CDMX +52 55 5280 1660 / quintonil.com
CONTRAMAR
“An excellent seafood restaurant. Though the dining room is very large, the place still has a warm, friendly ambiance. And they serve a strawberry-meringue cake that’s my favourite dessert in Mexico City.”
Calle de Durango 200, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5514 9217 / contramar.com.mx
ROSETTA
“Italian-inspired dishes made with Mexican ingredients. The chef, Elena Reygadas, cooks a delicious osso-buco.”
Colima 166, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5533 7804 / rosetta.com.mx
LIMOSNEROS
“The restaurant’s two chefs, Marcos Fulcheri and Carlo Meléndez, serve a blend of traditional and contemporary Mexican cuisine. It’s the ideal place for sampling authentic local cooking.”
Ignacio Allende 3, Centro Histórico, CDMX +52 55 5521 5576 / limosneros.com.mx
Museums / Historic sites:
MUSEO DE GEOLOGÍA DE LA UNAM
“My favourite museum, because I’m a rock fanatic — I’ve been collecting them since my teens. The building is a little-known architectural gem built in the early 20th century.”
Jaime Torres Bodet 176, Sta. María la Ribera, CDMX +52 55 5547 3948 / geologia.unam.mx/igl/museo/index.html
TORRE LATINOAMERICANA
“While this 181-metre skyscraper isn’t Mexico City’s tallest, since the Torre Mayor is 44 metres higher, it’s certainly the most emblematic. I recommend going up to the platform on the 43rd floor to take in breath- taking views across the immensity of our capital.”
Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 2, Centro, CDMX +52 55 5518 7423 / torrelatinoamericana.com.mx
Bars / Clubs:
LICORERÍA LIMANTOUR
“A classic bar with a long, narrow design and a somewhat exclusive clientele. The music is relaxing and they serve very good mezcals.”
Av. Álvaro Obregón 106, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5264 4122 / limantour.tv
Josefina Santacruz, Chef at Paprika and Sesame
Restaurants:
RESTAURANTE EL VENADITO
“This restaurant is in an historic district and serves the gold standard in tacos de carnitas. If you want to experience them the way the locals do, I suggest ordering take-away tacos and eating them standing up. A taco just doesn’t taste the same when you’re sitting down!”
Av. Universidad 1701, Agrícola, CDMX +52 55 5661 9786
SAN ÁNGEL INN
“Sit out on the patio of this ancient Carmelite monastery to enjoy a marvellous, authentic margarita. On Saturdays, take a stroll over to the colourful El Bazaar Sábado market nearby.”
Diego Rivera 50, San Ángel Inn, CDMX +52 55 5616 1402 / sanangelinn.com
DULCE PATRIA
“This fine-dining restaurant in the upscale Polanco district has impeccable décor and service.”
Anatole France 100, Polanco, CDMX +52 55 3300 3999
Museums / Historic sites:
ZONA ARQUEOLÓGICA DE TEOTIHUACÁN
“If you’re visiting Mexico City, you simply must go and see the Teotihuacán Pyramids. This UNESCO World Heritage site is about 40 kilometres north-east of the capital. It’s a truly moving, unforgettable experience.”
Teotihuacán, Estado de México +52 59 4956 0276 / teotihuacan.inah.gob.mx
MUSEO NACIONAL DE ANTROPOLOGÍA
“A must! This museum boasts spectacular architecture and a comprehensive presentation of the history of pre-Hispanic civilisations.”
Av. Paseo de la Reforma & Calzada Gandhi s/n, Chapultepec Polanco, CDMX +52 55 4040 5300 / mna.inah.gob.mx
Markets:
MERCADOROMA COYOACÁN
“This complex has countless dining and snacking options. I love the French-style macarons from the Theurel & Thomas shop, made with classic, but unexpected, Mexican flavours.”
Av. Miguel Ángel de Quevedo 353, Santa Catarina, CDMX +52 55 2155 9435 / mercadoroma.com
Hotels:
DOWNTOWN MÉXICO
“The incredible building in the Centro Histórico is a blend of traditional heritage and designer flair. The Azul restaurant serves genuine Mexican cuisine.”
Isabel la Católica 30, Centro, CDMX +52 55 5130 6830 / downtownmexico.com
Bruno Bichir, actor
Restaurants:
TAQUERÍA EL BORREGO VIUDO
“What I miss most when I’m away from Mexico City is the smell of tacos. This place is one of the few that’s open 24 hours a day, and it’s THE place for tacos.”
Av. Revolución 241, Tacubaya, CDMX +52 55 5516 4901 / taqueria-el-borrego- viudo-taco-restaurant.business.site
BOCA DEL RÍO
“This popular cantina has been around since 1941. It has a friendly atmosphere and the fish and seafood specialties are to die for. You can really feel the heartbeat of the capital here.”
Av. Ribera de San Cosme 42, San Rafael, CDMX +52 55 5535 0128 / bocadelrio.rest
LA ÓPERA
“It might not be the biggest or best cantina in the city, but it’s the oldest. It opened in 1876, has elaborate décor and still serves a traditional menu. People even say that Pancho Villa, the famed Mexican Revolutionary general, used to come here.”
Calle 5 de Mayo 10, Centro Histórico, CDMX +52 55 5512 8959 / barlaopera.com
Museums / Historic sites:
MUSEO SOUMAYA
“This futuristic building first opened in 2011. The museum houses a collection of 15th- to 20th-century works from Europe and the Americas. Sculptures by Auguste Rodin are given pride of place.”
Blvr. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Granada, CDMX +52 55 1103 9800 / soumaya.com.mx
ZÓCALO
“This huge downtown square is now known as the Plaza de la Constitución. Back when Mexico City was still called Tenochtitlán, this was the main location for Aztec ceremonies. The contrast that now exists between the pre-Hispanic period and the modern era is very moving.”
Plaza de la Constitución, Centro Histórico, CDMX
Theatres:
PALACIO DE BELLAS ARTES
“This is Mexico City’s epicentre of beauty and culture. The opera house opened in 1934 and is truly an Art Deco masterpiece.”
Av. Juárez, Centro Histórico, CDMX +52 55 8647 6500 / palacio.inba.gob.mx
ARENA COLISEO
“When I was a kid, my dream was to be a lucha libre wrestler. I saw the legendary El Santo wrestle here.”
República de Perú 77, Centro, CDMX +52 55 5526 7765
Fernanda Prado, Pastry Chef, Gelatoscopio
Restaurants:
SESĀMĒ
“The city’s best Asian restaurant. It serves a range of dishes from all over Asia, with street-food style.”
Colima 183, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5207 7471
EL CARDENAL
“This is the name of a chain of four establishments. My favourite is the Alameda in the Hilton hotel. I recommend going there for breakfast to have a concha con nata, hot brioche pastry with clotted-cream filling. What a treat!”
Av. Juárez 70, Centro, CDMX +52 55 1866 3233 / restauranteelcardenal.com
MÁXIMO BISTROT LOCAL
“One of Chef Eduardo García’s three dining establishments. This one serves delicious, creative gourmet cuisine.”
Tonalá 133, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5264 4291 / maximobistrot.com.mx
AL-ANDALUS
“Like many other Mexicans, my family is originally from Lebanon. This restaurant, set inside an elegant, 17th-century colonial building, celebrates Lebanese cuisine, which provides a change of pace from Mexican food.”
Calle de Mesones 171, Centro Histórico, CDMX +52 55 5522 2528
Museums / Historic sites:
MUSEO NACIONAL DE ARTE
“I love this building’s classic architecture. The exhibits are a chance to learn about Mexican art from the mid-16th century through 1954. I go there to see works by my favourite painter, Diego Rivera.”
Calle de Tacuba 8, Centro Histórico, CDMX +52 55 8647 5430 / munal.mx
MUSEO DOLORES OLMEDO
“Mexico City has more museums than any other city in the world. I really like this one, which features works from the private collection of businesswoman and philanthropist Dolores Olmedo. At this institution in the city’s southern quarters, you can enjoy a great variety of works by Diego Rivera and his wife, Frida Kahlo.”
Av. México 5843, La Noria, Xochimilco, CDMX +52 55 5555 0891 / museodoloresolmedo.org.mx
Shops:
TOUT CHOCOLAT
“If delicious chocolates are what you’re in the mood for, look no further. The beans come from Bolivia, Ecuador, Venezuela and, of course, Mexico.”
Av. Ámsterdam 154, Hipódromo, CDMX +52 55 5211 9840
Libia Moreno and Enrique Arellano, Founders, Utilitario Mexicano
Markets:
MERCADO DE SAN JUAN
“The city’s oldest indoor market. You’ll find incredible foods there of exceptional flavour and quality. Be sure to stop at the Triana Café Gourmet for one of their sublime espressos made with coffee beans from the Veracruz region.”
Calle de Ernesto Pugibet 21, Centro, CDMX
MERCADO DOMINICAL DE ANTIGÜEDADES DE LA LAGUNILLA
“We love going to this flea market on Sundays to shop all the antiques, vintage clothes and everyday articles. And there are street-food stands for when you’re ready for a between-purchase snack.”
Paseo de la Reforma 6300, Morelos, CDMX
Bars / Clubs:
PATRICK MILLER
“This nightspot is a Mexican institution. Every Friday, starting at 10 pm, Chilangos flock to the hangar’s dance floor to party the night away. They frequently even hold dance battles.”
Mérida 17, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5511 5406 / facebook.com/PatrickMillerMX
LA CLANDESTINA
“This mezcaleria might be tiny, but it serves a great variety of artisanal mezcals.”
Av. Álvaro Obregón 298, Condesa, CDMX +52 55 5212 1871
Green spaces:
PARQUE DE LA CIUDADELA
“Every Saturday afternoon, this public park hosts nattily dressed couples beneath the gazebo for dancing to strains of the danzón. Participants are of all ages, some come join the fun!”
Emilio Donde 104, Centro, CDMX
Restaurants:
FARMACIA INTERNACIONAL
“The perfect lunch spot. Avocado toasts, eggs in every form, pastries: everything is fresh and delicious.”
Bucareli 128, Centro, CDMX +52 55 5086 6220
Theatres:
LA PERLA
“This cabaret plays catchy music and attracts the city’s drag queens, showing the burlesque side of Mexico City.”
República de Cuba 44, Centro, CDMX +52 55 3916 2699 / facebook.com/cabaret.laperla
Shops:
THE INDIAN PIPE SOCIETY
“This stylish concept store carries enticing articles crafted by young designers, from clothes to jewellery and accessories. It’s a perfect fit in this chic, laidback neighbourhood.”
Calle de Chihuahua 56, Roma, CDMX +52 52 17261 5961 / indian-pipe-society.business.site
Eric Daniel González and Santiago Muñoz, Chefs and Founders, Maizajo
Restaurants:
PASILLO DE HUMO
“A superb restaurant serving classic Oaxaca cuisine, specialising in the tlayuda, a crispy tortilla with toppings. We recommend trying the hoja santa asada rellena, or stuffed pepper leaf. And for dessert, order the papaya nixtamalizada.”
Av. Nuevo León 107, Hipódromo, CDMX +52 55 5211 7263
EL VILSITO
“The city has thousands of taco stands, but we like this one the best. It’s open only at night, starting at 8 p.m. It serves the best taco al pastor in Mexico City: the pork is spit- grilled, topped with a whole pineapple.”
Av. Universidad, Narvarte, CDMX +52 55 5536 3534 MUSEO
NICOS
“The best place in the city to learn about the traditional flavours of Mexico. Be sure to try their guacamole, prepared tableside.”
Av. Cuitláhuac 3102, Clavería, CDMX +52 55 5396 7090 / nicosmexico.mx
SALÓN RÍOS
“We supply this bar with our tortillas, so we can attest to the great food served there. It also becomes a salsa dance hall a few evenings a week.”
Calle Río Lerma 218, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX +52 55 5207 5272 / facebook.com/salonriosmx
Museums / Historic sites:
MUSEO UNIVERSITARIO ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO
“The MUAC is home to the largest collection of contemporary artists working in Mexico and also hosts temporary exhibitions. The museum is set on the vast campus of the Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México.”
Av. Insurgentes Sur 3000, Centro Cultural Universitario, Coyoacán, CDMX +52 55 5622 6972 / muac.unam.mx
MUSEO FRIDA KAHLO
“It may be crowded, but Frida Kahlo’s birthplace, Casa Azul, is still one of the capital’s must-see sites.”
Calle Londres 247, Del Carmen, CDMX +52 55 5554 5999 / museofridakahlo.org.mx
Theatres:
CINETECA NACIONAL DE MÉXICO
“Mexico has a rich, well-developed film culture. The Cineteca pays homage to this heritage inside a building with spectacular architecture.”
Av. México Coyoacán 389, Xoco, CDMX +52 55 4155 1200 / cinetecanacional.net
Oswaldo Oliva, Chef, Alelí and Lorea
Restaurants:
FONDA MARGARITA
“This establishment opens at 5 a.m. and is the perfect place to try out a genuine desayuno, or Mexican breakfast.”
Adolfo Prieto 1364, Del Valle, CDMX +52 55 5559 6358
TAQUERÍA LOS COCUYOS
“This open-façade restaurant closes late and specialises in tacos de cabeza. Every part of the ox head finds its way into tacos here. You must try the ones made with beef tongue: delicious.”
Calle de Bolívar 57, Centro, CDMX
MEROTORO
“The best restaurant for sampling the surf-and-turf gastronomy of the Baja California region. Chef Jair Téllez works culinary wonders.”
Calle Ámsterdam 204, Condesa, CDMX +52 55 5564 7799 / merotoro.mx
HIYOKO
“The city has a number of superb Japanese restaurants, and all the eateries of the Edo Kobayashi Group are worth a visit. I especially love this yakitori counter that seats just 13 guests, and where everything’s cooked on the open grill.”
Río Pánuco 132, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX +52 55 5207 0386 / edokobayashi.com
Bars / clubs:
BUNA 42
“A location featuring minimalist décor and excellent coffees from the best sources. The perfect place to take a break.”
Orizaba 42, Roma, CDMX +52 55 7258 7360 / buna.mx
LOUP BAR
“A wine bar that serves natural wine from around the world, including from Mexico! The chef is Joaquin Cardoso, who has worked at French restaurants in Paris, so there are both French and Mexican influences in his cooking.”
Tonalá 23, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5514 6983 / loupbar.mx
ESCOLLO
“Several microbreweries have opened here in the last five years. The reason this one is my favourite is because they serve their Black IPA beer with fried fish tacos. Best when enjoyed on site.”
Calle Querétaro 182, Roma, CDMX +52 55 5264 4863
Markets:
MERCADO DE COMIDA COYOACÁN
“I love this neighbourhood and its one-of-a-kind ambiance. When eating here, try some garnachas, fried tortillas beneath a variety of toppings.”
Ignacio Allende, Del Carmen Coyoacán, CDMX
Patricio Cabrera Galvan, Nespresso Boutique Manager
Restaurants:
LOMA LINDA
“This historic Mexico City restaurant chain has four locations. I recommend the one in the Plaza Carso shopping centre. From the terrace, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Museo Soumaya. A great place to enjoy some delicious grilled meat.”
Blvr. Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra 303, Ampliación Granada, CDMX +52 55 5520 8140 / lomalinda.com.mx
PAN DULCE
“A chic pastry shop inside the Four Seasons luxury hotel. Treat yourself to some of the best cakes in the city, along with a latte, to enjoy there or take away.”
Paseo de la Reforma 500, Juárez, CDMX +52 55 5230 1818 / fourseasons.com/mexico
AZUL HISTÓRICO
“Chef Ricardo Muñoz Zurita runs the kitchens at three Azul restaurant locations, including the Histórico. He’s one of the guardians of the temple of traditional Mexican cuisine and gives it all a subtle, contemporary twist. Definitely worth the trip!”
Calle Isabel la Católica 30, Centro, CDMX +52 55 5510 1316 / azul.rest
LES MOUSTACHES
“You’ll sense a French touch at this stylish institution in the city’s business district. I like going there for the way they combine the excellence of traditional French gastronomy with Mexican ingredients. It’s a great place for celebrating special occasions.”
Calle Río Sena 88, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX +52 55 5533 3390 / lesmoustaches.com.mx
Green spaces:
BOSQUE DE CHAPULTEPEC
“This is one of the largest parks in the world. Chapultepec is home to many great places to explore: the Museo Nacional de Antropología, the Museo Arte Moderno, the Museo Tamayo, not to mention a castle and even a zoo. In the hustle-bustle of the city, it’s an oasis of peace and quiet.”
Av. Cuitláhuac 3102, Clavería, CDMX +52 55 5396 7090 / nicosmexico.mx
JARDINES FLOTANTES DE XOCHIMILCO
“Those canals covered with colourful boats aren’t just for tourists! Mexicans love to go there with family or friends. You simply must take the trip to the southern section of Mexico City to enjoy the beauty of the place.”
Xochimilco, CDMX +52 55 5334 0600 / xochimilco.gob.mx
Bars / Clubs:
NEXO WINE BISTROT
“This restaurant is the ideal combination of creative cuisine and a superb wine menu. César Vásquez and Diego Niño are very talented young chefs. A cup of Nespresso coffee is the perfect finishing touch to your meal.”
Campos Elíseos 199, Polanco, CDMX +52 55 5280 4825 / presidentialsuite. wixsite.com/nexowinebistrot
