No Seoul: Why Busan is Korea’s Must-See City
Secret places by the sea, in South Korea’s second city.
Found in the south east of Korea, Busan is deservedly most famous for its seaside views, as dominated by the pair of famous beaches known as Haeundae, which you should see by day, and Gwangalli, which comes to life at night with its brilliant view of the luminescent Gwangan Bridge, and the most uproarious nightlife to be found in the city. As such, Busan should be first choice for anyone considering an excursion to Korea, and to help your decision are a few more attractions beloved by locals, deserving to be known as any of the big guns. All of them show there’s more to Busan than sun and sea, and explain the city’s triumph over boring old Seoul for any traveller sick of venturing into yet another concrete capital.
Samgwangsa Temple
Samgwangsa is famous for being lit up by night for Buddha’s Birthday in spring, but is worth a visit any time of year. Outside of Danyang county or Jeju Island, it’s hard to find multi-level temples in Korea, so rare are they on the mainland. Admire the beautiful reds of this taller sort of temple in the summertime.
Directions courtesy of Millennial Abroad and Don’s ESL Adventure: Go out exits 11 or 13 of Seomyeon Station on subway lines 1 & 2 (stop 119/219), then take bus number 81 or 122 towards Samgwangsa Temple (‘삼광사’). Get out at the Songyeong Apartment stop. The temple will be approximately five minutes from the bus stop. You can also take Bus #15 from Yeong-gwang Bookstore outside exit 9 of Seomyeon Station. This bus stops right in front of the temple. Additionally, a cab from Seomyeon Station only costs ₩5,000. Like most temples in Korea, entrance to Samgwangsa is free.
Jeonpo Cafe Street
Seoul is chock full of studenty areas where indie cafes and homely restaurants are in abundance. Busan has such a cafe district too, an enclave of good food and coffee nestled beside the rather run down looking streets of Jeonpo district. I’m guessing ex-pats don’t know about this place yet because it’s so well hidden in humdrum. Basically, you’re here for the food, and not for the sights. For dinner, try out the homemade dishes at Seoul Kitchen (2nd floor, 677–15, Jeonpo-dong), and for dessert try the macarons at Jimmy Jinee Park (677–3). If they sell out there, then try the other famous hand-made macaron place known as Atelier (680–18).
Directions courtesy of Busan Haps: Take line two to Jeonpo Station (stop 218). Go straight out of exit 7. Walk for two blocks and then turn left, down a slight hill towards Seomyeon district. A Google image search for ‘전포카페거리’ will give you a good idea for the trail!
Haedong Yonggung Temple
Those ticking off their Asia bucket list should really make a trip to the coastal temple Haedong Yonggung, which is over 600 years old, and hands down the best thing I’ve seen in the far east, being the only temple you can find perched beside beautiful blue waves that gently crash upon sacred rocks.
Directions: From exit 7 of Haeundae Station (stop 203 on metro line 2), take Bus 181 and get off at Yonggungsa Temple (‘용궁사’). From there, you’ll have to walk 15–20 minutes up a steep, clearly marked path adorned with wonderful looking lantern poles.
Bay 101
If you want to eat the best fish and chips in Korea while watching the sun set on city and sea, then Bay 101 is the place for you. This marina complex is becoming more well known by Koreans coming to Busan, so get in early to grab a seat at the top floor restaurant, and try not to wince at the 15,000₩ price tag of the fish and chips, for it’s worth the expense.
Directions: Go to Dongbaek Station (stop 204 on line 2), and from exit 1 walk straight for 700m. Bay 101 will be on the right after crossing the bridge, very near to the Westin Hotel.
Chungnyeolsa Shrine
Chungnyeolsa (‘충렬사’) is a sacred shrine, where the spirits of those who fought against the Japanese during the invasion of 1592 are enshrined. The simple black and white colouring of Chungnyeolsa is unique not just among Korean shrines, but Korean temples too.
Directions: No bus needed here. Simply go to Chungnyeolsa Station on metro line 4 (stop 405) and from there just walk out of exit 1. The shrine is quick and easy to find, and free to enter.
Giacomo Lee is a London author whose writing has been featured on Boing Boing, io9 & Chincha. Read his novel Funereal through iBooks on Apple iTunes, and Kindle & paperback on Amazon UK, and the Amazon US store. For free review copies, please contact the publisher at Signal 8 Press.
