So what is sous vide cooking?
Sous vide is absolutely the hottest trend in home cooking. If you’re a Bradley Cooper fan you might have seen him malign sous vide cooking in his latest film Burnt where he suggested to one of his competitors, “You don’t cook; you warm food up in condoms”. Ultimately at the prodding of his love interest in the movie, he adopts the method himself.
Sous vide, for the uninitiated, is a method of cooking in which food is sealed in airtight plastic bags then placed in a water bath for longer than normal cooking times at an accurately regulated temperature much lower than normally used for cooking, typically around 130 to 140 °F. The intent is to cook food evenly, ensuring that the inside is properly cooked without overcooking the outside retaining moisture.
After watching Burnt and reading J. Kenji Lopez-Alt’s The Food Lab at a friend’s suggestion I became addicted to sous vide style cooking.
My first dish was a simple skinless chicken breast (seen above). I set my sous vide to 140 degrees, bagged a single breast seasoned with salt and pepper, and let it cook for a couple of hours. When I was ready to eat I removed the breast, seared it with my Bernzomatic torch with MAP gas, let it rest for a few minutes, and served. OMG. I never realized how good a simple breast could be! A few days later I invited my parents over to try my discovery and my mom told me it was the best breast she’d ever had in her life. Why? Traditional cooking methods REQUIRE you to overcook the outside of the breast resulting in a dry, stringy texture most of us are used to eating. I knew there was a reason I never ordered breast!
The first thing you’re going to need is a sous vide immersion circulator (I’ve got two as seen above). These come in two different styles. The first (not shown) is a self-contained unit. The heating element, circulator, and container are all-in-one. My mom and dad have one of these and from what they tell me it works well, but I prefer the standalone units — I’ve got the Anova and the Sansaire. The Sansaire was originally a Kickstarter project. You can learn more from the inventors below:
Once you’ve picked your circulator you’re going to need a container.
I had a small stock pot that I used to cook and it worked well (seen below). I wanted to start cooking for my whole family so I needed a bigger stock pot and I found that the circulator was struggling to keep the bath at a constant temperature. I Googled and found that I could buy ‘sous vide balls’ to keep my bath at a constant temperature. I did and they worked.
Of course the sous vide balls aren’t cheap, especially considering they are hollow plastic balls. I think I paid around $40 for 200 of them. The problem with the stock pot method was that I was worried that some of the packages might not be cooking as well as others. Soon after I bought a LIPAVI sous vide container and rack. The container cost me around $40 and the rack was $98 (the rack keeps the packages separated to allow for circulation).
The new container and rack looked really cool, but during longer cooks 24+ hours I was losing a LOT of water even when I used my sous vide balls. I tried making a prototype sous vide koozie to keep the bath warm and reduce evaporation (seen below).
The koozie solved the temperature problem, but it didn’t help with evaporation. One afternoon I was at OfficeDepot ran across the Ziploc Weathertight container. It looked like the perfect size, had a foam seal, and was only $17. I decided to give it a try.
I tested out the Ziploc box against the sous vide balls + my koozie to see which one would performed better. The results were surprising. The Ziploc container had almost no evaporation after 24 hours while the other solution lost inches of water.
I’m 100% sold on the Ziploc boxes now (link on my Amazon list).
You’ll soon learn that you’ll need to sear your meat once it’s removed from the vacuum bag. After a lot of research, I’ve found the best solution to be the Bernzomatic TS8000 High-Intensity Trigger Start Torch and the Worthington Pro Grade MAP-Pro Cylinder. You may be tempted to get something called a Searzall to attach to your torch (seen below):
The searzall attaches to your standard hardware store blow torch and is fun to play with. Last night I used it to sear Berkshire pork chops I had prepared for my kids. It was taking forever and Erin’s stomach was growling so I took off the Searzall and just used the plain torch. It worked like a champ and only took seconds to finish off the chops. I decided to do a side-by-side comparison on an extra chop I had saved for lunch. Here are the results in video:
In my pork chop experiment I used the Searzall+propane gas to sear one side of the chop and then the plain torch+MAPP gas to sear the other. The Searzall instructions indicate that you shouldn’t use MAPP due to the fact that it burns hundreds of degrees hotter than propane. As you can see above, the Searzall took 3X the time it took the plain torch. And it is a little difficult to see in the pictures below, but I preferred the result achieved by the plain torch.
First of all speed is important. With the Searzall my arm feels like it’s going to fall off waiting for the meat to sear. Second, it is hard to evenly sear the meat with the Searzall. The torch is faster and easier to aim.
All of that being said, I can see how the Searzall is the PERFECT kitchen salamander to melt cheese on hamburgers and other applications where more subtle heat is required.
Verdict: Searzall v. Torch
— Fun: Searzall
— Speed: Torch
— Heat: Torch
— Controlled Heat: Searzall
PS I might be doing it wrong. If you’ve got suggestions or advice it is welcome!
You’ll also need a vacuum sealer for your food. You can use zip lock bags and the water displacement method, but 99% of the time the sealer works best. Since I started cooking using my sous vide circulator I’ve been frustrated with the texture my Seal-a-Meal vacuum bags imprinted on my proteins. The patterns were most evident on salmon and skinless meats like chicken breast. When I was cooking for myself it was no big deal, but when I was cooking for guests I was especially aware of the strange texture my bags created. The pattern serves a real purpose — allowing the vacuum to work properly. But there is a solution! Sous vide bags with texture only on one side. They vacuum well AND they avoid the bag pattern on the presentation side of your proteins. The folks at Sous Vide Supreme make these one sided bags and they work great. You can find them on my Sous Vide Essentials List on Amazon.
That is about it. Get your circulator and your vacuum sealer and you’re ready to start. I’ve posted a BUNCH of recipes I like here on Sous Vide. I try to make them short and sweet — my quick guide will tell you at a glance what temperature to heat your bath to and how long to cook. The rest is all really up to you.