Medora’s Mecca
Many new restaurants are set to open this autumn, but now is a good time to revisit a long-time establishment. In fact, I reviewed this restaurant nearly 10 years ago. Medora’s Mecca opened in 1968 and is a family-run Italian restaurant not too far from Citizens Bank Park and Lincoln Financial Field.
Edward, my mom Berthe, sister Sandy and I arrived and were met at the door by a smiling young man who took good care of us all evening. The restaurant has several dining rooms, a cozy bar and outdoor seating. Colorful faux Tiffany lamps dotted the room and the sounds of Tony Bennett filled the room as we discussed the menu, which hasn’t changed much over the years. In fact, it’s pure 1950s fare, what would be described as Continental cuisine.
We sipped perfectly made martinis ($6) and nibbled fresh sesame seed-topped Italian bread and homemade roasted peppers. Wines by the glass ($5) were straight from the ’50s. I can’t recall the last time I saw Ruffino Chianti on a menu.
Soup of the day ($4) was a hearty navy bean rich with homemade stock and a hint of tomato. It was a good-sized bowl and was quite tasty.
Caesar salad for two ($8.95) could easily have served three. Fresh crisp hearts of romaine, homemade croutons and dressing and freshly grated Parmesan arrived in a large bowl. Using tongs, I dished out the salad and enjoyed.
Mom is a ravioli-lover and never passes up the chance to tuck into these filled pastas. This version ($9.95) was simply done with at least eight good-size cheese raviolis topped with a rich, not-at-all sweet homemade tomato gravy.
Sandy’s veal Parmesan ($14.95) was a hefty slice of slightly pounded veal topped with mozzarella and homemade gravy, which was then baked in the oven. The veal was slightly sautéed before baking, but the dish lacked flavor. Spaghetti with gravy was served on the side.
Edward’s eggplant Parmesan ($12.95) was OK. He liked it better than I did as I thought it lacked flavor. The eggplant was slightly breaded, but not fried to crispness. The texture was a little on the soggy side. Instead of a side of spaghetti or a baked potato (baked potatoes in an Italian restaurant?), Edward requested spinach. The spinach was fresh, although it needed a bit more garlic.
Many Italian restaurants over sauce their food and I can never understand why. My veal piccata ($15.95) had way too much butter and it detracted from the meat. The sauce was prepared with capers and garlic, which I could not taste, as well as butter and white wine. The meat was simmered in the sauce, but it would have tasted better if it was topped with the sauce. The veal was tender, however, and my side of spaghetti was OK.
Overall, I thought the dishes could have been served hotter.
A number of months ago, Edward and I visited Medora’s Mecca. We ordered the house salad ($4), which was ordinary lettuce and tomato, and stuffed mushrooms ($7.95), which were OK. The broiled stuffed shrimp with crabmeat ($17.95) was tasty, but the shrimp were on the small side. The flounder Florentine ($15.95) fared better. It was made with fresh spinach, but I wondered about topping it with mozzarella. Fish and cheese don’t mingle well.
There is merit at Medora’s Mecca. The ingredients are obviously fresh, but care should be taken in the preparation and presentation of a number of the dishes.
One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Medora’s Mecca.
Medora’s Mecca
3101 S. 13th St.
215–336–1655
VISA and MasterCard accepted
Wheelchair-accessible
