Rose Tattoo Cafe

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It’s quite a feat when a restaurant celebrates its silver anniversary, especially in these uncertain economic times. Adding to the longevity quotient is the fact so many new places of all types are popping up like wildflowers.

Rose Tattoo Cafe, in Fairmount, is 25 years old. Edward and I have not been there in ages so I thought a visit was in order. When it opened, it was at the forefront of the so-called New American cuisine movement. The menu reflected regional American fare with an Italian nod.

The restaurant is bi-level with lovely-to-look-at black wrought-iron rails, especially on the balcony. There’s so much tall greenery dotting the space Edward thought Rose Tattoo Cafe would be the perfect place for a tryst as the foliage easily obscures views across the dining-room floor.

We settled into a table for two on the balcony and sipped small martinis ($8.50). Although Rose Tattoo Cafe is a neighborhood restaurant, it is pricey. We began dinner with Caesar salad ($9) and a combination platter of fried calamari and shrimp ($12). The salad was on the warm side and, for the most part, the lettuce had seen better days. Although the dressing was homemade, shards of Parmesan should have been included instead of the microscopic dusting of an unremarkable cheese.

The seafood was so salty we could not eat it. We thought it a crime someone doused fried fish with an oily dressing that made the crustaceans soggy. Our waitress was professional and understanding. She whisked the dish away and brought us the fish fry appetizer ($15). This consisted of two scallops, on the sweet side, and three shrimp that had been breaded and fried to a crisp golden brown. A ramekin filled with homemade lemon caper aioli was primed for dipping.

Two slices of so-so baguette and sourdough were on the dry side. Even as we slathered the bread with whipped, softened butter it did little for the taste or texture.

Wines by the glass are in the $7 to $11 range. Edward opted for the Concho Y Toro Cabernet/Merlot blend ($7) while I took our waitress’ advice and sampled an Australian Shiraz ($10). Both were on the warm side and I found the Shiraz to be a bit sweet.

For our entr�es, we selected Atlantic salmon ($23) and grilled pork chop ($26). About seven ounces of fresh fillet of salmon was perfectly cooked, still a bit transparent inside. The fish was topped with a grilled jumbo shrimp that retained a bit of a bite. We both liked the creamy Chardonnay sauce, which was properly reduced with the natural juices of the fish. Fresh haricot verts came with the entr�e.

The pork chop was the largest I have ever been served in a restaurant. At first, I thought it was a veal chop, which has virtually disappeared from restaurant menus. It was slightly undercooked, which is a good thing. Nothing is worse than pork cooked to a dry dust. I did find it a little salty, however. The sauce was a sweet, natural pan reduction. A mound of bland mashed garlic potatoes and a good-sized portion of broccoli rabe came with dinner.

Dessert ($8.50) was the best part. A trio of fresh peach almond tartlets, peach panna cotta served in a pony glass and homemade peach sorbet — redolent with chopped mint and sitting in a flaky pastry cup — captured the tasty spirit of late summer.

Our waitress took care of us and two gentlemen on the balcony. In between serving, she had to bus tables and wipe them down. Bus help is an important part of the restaurant business and even though she worked solo, service was excellent.

Although our dinner was uneven, Rose Tattoo Cafe has stayed around for 25 years — and that’s saying something.

One-and-a-half tips of the toque to Rose Tattoo Cafe.

Rose Tattoo Cafe
19th and Callowhill streets
215–569–8939
Credit cards accepted
www.rosetattoocafe.com