Stella Rossa

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For the past few years, a number of pizza restaurants have opened their doors offering a plethora of pies with classic and unusual ingredients. Nothing can top Pizzeria Vetri when it comes to that crisp, slightly blistered crust and marvelous toppings. But I also like SliCE, Pizzeria Pesto and Zavona Wine Bar Pizzeria.

If you are looking for a moderately priced Italian restaurant that welcomes families, Stella Rossa is for you. Located at 10th and Walnut, it is a fine spot for a lunchtime pizza or sandwich, as well as dinner before the theater. On the night we dined, a number of families were off to see “Elf.”

The menu offers no surprises, as one can build a meat, cheese and olive board, munch on a salad or tuck into pasta or pizza. Several entrees are on order as well.

Stella Rossa was packed when Edward and I arrived early on a recent Saturday evening. There was a 30-minute wait, so we decided to dine at one of the bi-level restaurant’s two bars. The cozy, warm atmosphere featured brick walls with soft lighting and music. The staff was friendly and professional, even when service was at a high pace. I sipped a Negroni ($9)while Edward enjoyed a Bombay Sapphire martini ($9.75). A bartender brought us small square rolls made with pizza dough and a spicy olive oil to keep us happy.

I am still dreaming abut the arancini ($8). These fried risotto balls can be difficult to prepare because arborio rice has a tendency be fickle when it is first toasted and laced with stock. Four of them arrived piping hot, and were stuffed with provolone that oozed creaminess as soon as I took my first bite. The rice also imparted a creamy texture. I also liked the seasoned breadcrumbs that coated the appetizer. We dipped them into a fresh marinara fragrant with chopped basil.

Fried calamari has become so ubiquitous, I often hesitate to order it. I don’t like frozen rings of squid that taste like rubber bands. Stella Rossa’s version ($11) was nicely done. Whole baby squid along with rings were coated in a light crumb and gently fried to a golden brown. The coating never fell off the calamari. Sliced banana peppers were included for a bit of punch, and the roasted garlic aioli and spicy marinara dipping sauces were a fine idea.

Besides pizza, meatballs also are close to my heart. A number of restaurants make them pretty well, a number can be tasteless and gummy. Stella Rossa offers them prepared with either beef or veal or vegetarian. We chose beef meatballs ($9), and they quickly brought a smile to my face. The beef was beautifully seasoned. They were braised, browned and served in a soup bowl filled with fresh marinara and topped with grated shreds of Parmesan. The crisp crostini were perfect for dipping, but I liked the small dish of fresh ricotta that I schmeered on the bread. Three good-sized meatballs came with the order.

Now to the pizza. The dough is made at the restaurant. The red or white pies, which are baked in a wood-burning oven, can be ordered with a variety of toppings.

We selected the mushroom pizza ($12) topped with Taleggio, one of my favorite cheeses which is sometimes called the Brie of Italy. It melted beautifully on the pie and was topped with sliced cremini mushrooms and a hint of truffle oil. These mushrooms imparted a heady woody flavor and aroma that blended nicely with the mild cheese. I thought the pizza could have been crisper.

Stella Rossa offers wine by the four -ounce glass, seven-ounce glass, half-carafe or bottle. I like this wine service because it affords guests to sip a glass or two of different wines with their meal. We chose a half-carafe of Montepulciano ($17) that was just OK. It had the texture of cough syrup.

With all the upscale fine dining restaurants that dot Center City, Stella Rossa found its niche. I watched a family of five that sat near us eat a meal that did not break the bank. And the smile on a little boy’s face as he ate spaghetti and meatballs was priceless.

Three tips of the toque to Stella Rossa.

Stella Rossa

929 Walnut St.

215–644–9074

stellarossaristorante.com

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.

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