Bangkok — Far From The Madding Crowds
When holidaying in Thailand, no doubt some time will be spent in the capital Bangkok with the view to savoring the renowned culture, and unique ambiance of this exotic land. But no visit to Bangkok would be complete without experiencing life on a ‘Khlong.’ A khlong is a Thai canal, and an excursion on one of these is a great way to get a glimpse of what life in Bangkok used to be like centuries ago.
There were dozens of khlongs once upon a time crisscrossing the city of Bangkok for transportation, floating markets, and sewage. Originating from ancient times when vegetables, fruits, and other merchandise were sold from small boats along the waterways of Thailand, the floating markets played a very important part in daily life with many farmers using the fertile banks inland for growing the produce. Nowadays in Bangkok, many of the khlongs have been filled in to make way for roads, and before that to curtail the spread of cholera.
However, in the old Thonburi region of the capital, the khlongs still feature and have now become interesting tourist attractions for visitors who like to get off the beaten track and explore the old ways of a nation’s culture. Thonburi was actually the capital of Thailand many years ago situated on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River, and it remained an independent province until 1972 when it merged with Bangkok. But here you can still find ramshackle townhouses, old wooden huts, dilapidated lean-tos, and plenty of old-world charm.
Khlong Mon is one such stretch of the Thonburi that has a real scent of sweet antiquity with its flowery banks, old wooden shacks, random temples, monks by the riverside, and locals going about their daily chores.
In contrast, Khlong Bangkok Noi is wider, and more built-up, with a navy dockyard, modern homes, factories, and temples lining the way. There is also the Royal Barges National Museum which houses the intricately gilded barges that are used for royal occasions.
And the waterway becomes even more exciting, and exhilarating at Khlong Saen Saeb when public transport boats suddenly appear on the scene next to concreted walkways and turn the area into a busy, bustling, vibrant throng of boats, people, and tourists all vying for a quick way to avoid the traffic on dry land.
Along the Saen Saeb, you can stop off and enjoy many different cultural items of interest, such as the Golden Mount at Wat Saket built by King Rama I (a late 18th century temple on a hill); the beautifully striking Mahatthai U-thit Bridge with its Italian Barocco reliefs; Jim Thompson’s House (the six-house teakwood residence in tropical gardens of the late silk legend that has now become a museum showcasing his collections, and designs); and the shopping havens of Siam, Pratunam, Ratchaprasong, and Thong Lor.
If you enjoy comparing, and contrasting areas when on holiday, then a trip that takes in the quaint narrow Khlong of Thonburi ending with the connection at Saen Saeb and its heady mix of ancient/modern is sure to fire your enthusiasm (though the Khlong smells may take a little getting used to here in Saen Saeb!).
