What Secrets Lie Within Yogyakarta’s Royal Garden?
In the heart of Jogja (otherwise known as Yogyakarta city), lies a royal garden that has seen the footprints of Javanese history. These are the hidden stories of Indonesia’s own Taman Sari, a place where every corner tells a tale and every stone has a secret.
A Glimpse of the Past
The sun kissed the waters, turning them into a shimmering blue at the ancient complex. It felt like stepping into a painting of olden days, like being in another lifetime. You could almost see people of the past — daughters and concubines of the Sultan strolling by the pool. Up in the central tower, Sultan Hamengkubuwono II himself watched through the lattice window, perhaps contemplating his next companion.
Indeed, Taman Sari has stood the test of time, dating back to 18th century Java.
Its name derived from the fusion of the Javanese words “taman,” meaning a haven of greenery, and “sari,” notions of beauty. It was more than just a garden; it was a haven reserved for royalty, where the common folk treaded lightly, if at all. The garden complex was constructed as a place of relaxation for the Sultan and his family, following a period of recent warfare.
Just imagine bustling streets filled with people and the smell of spices in the air. Amidst all that, Taman Sari stood as a peaceful retreat — a green haven in the middle of it all.
I looked down into the pool. The glint of numerous coins scattered at the bottom snapped me back into reality. Despite a huge sign clearly stating not to throw anything in, it seemed many saw it as a kind of wishing well. And who could blame them, really? The pull of those shining waters likely led people to believe it held the power to grant their deepest desires.
Standing there, surrounded by the ancient splendor, the modern-day tourists seemed to fade away. In places like this, where the past meets the present, there’s always a sense of curiosity, I feel like. With that, comes a longing to uncover the lives that once flourished here.
Each step I took felt like I was walking in the footsteps of many before me, driven to unravel the mysteries of this once grand place.
What tales had these walls heard? What secrets are buried in time?
And so, what really happened here?
The Portuguese Man or “Demang Tegis”, as They Say
The architecture and white paint splattered across the place resembled scenes from a Greek mythology book. It’s no surprise that this “water castle,” as locals fondly refer to it, bears the influence of European architecture.
The tale behind its construction is equally incredible — so much so that debates still swirl around which version holds the truth about who actually built Taman Sari.
Legend whispers of Demang Tegis’s arrival on the shores of Mancingan, a stranger whose appearance and language baffled the local inhabitants. He spoke in a tongue unfamiliar to them, later recognized as Portuguese, sparking rumors that he might be of European descent.
His presence soon reached the ears of Sultan Hamengkubuwono II, the ruler of Yogyakarta during the late 18th century. Intrigued by the stranger’s mysterious origins and claimed skills as a builder, the Sultan welcomed Demang Tegis into his court.
Over time, Demang Tegis learned the ways of Javanese life and became fluent in their language, revealing that he had survived a shipwreck and was indeed Portuguese — a claim that added to the mystique surrounding him.
According to local accounts, Demang Tegis played a pivotal role in the construction of Taman Sari, known for its unique blend of Javanese and purported European architectural styles.
Yet, until today, historians still debate Demang Tegis’s true identity and his role in the building of Taman Sari complex. Some say the architecture doesn’t clearly show European influence, questioning his impact. Nevertheless, the tale of Demang Tegis remains shrouded in mystery and continues to captivate imaginations, adding layers of intrigue to the legacy of the place.
As for who he truly was, perhaps we may never know.
Who Thought of Adding More Heat to Taman Sari?
There’s a room in the main tower of the bathing pool area at Taman Sari that captured my attention. It’s tucked away in one of the wings, resembling a small bedroom that has been lovingly restored with vibrant paint. The decorations and intricate details on the furniture add to its charm, drawing me in even more.
Interestingly, there was something about this room that felt personal to me. According to historical accounts, the rooms at the tower were meant as a resting place exclusively for the Sultan. However, during my visit, the tour guides shared a fascinating tidbit: they claimed this room was once used as a sauna for not only the Sultan, but also the ladies. They pointed out small furnace-like structures at the bottom where firewood was supposedly stored for generating heat.
I couldn’t find any mention of this specific room on the internet, despite my efforts to research it. It raises questions. Were the guides embellishing the story to captivate tourists, or could there be truth to it?
The idea of a sauna here seems both logical and puzzling. Saunas have roots dating back to ancient times, primarily in colder climates like Europe, yet using them in a tropical setting like Yogyakarta seems rather… unconventional?
This finding brings me back to the mystery surrounding Demang Tegis. Was this room perhaps one of his ideas, blending European and Javanese influences?
Reflecting on my visit, as I sit here writing this piece, I’m still fascinated by Taman Sari’s history and the blend of cultures I experienced there. I think it’s more than just a historical structure — it shows how different cultures come together. Visiting Taman Sari reminded me of our shared history and how intriguing our world can be.
I just hope more people would take the time to discover its stories, rather than treating it as just another social media photo op and moving on.
