Bhutan : A land of Buddhist mysteries!
As I took off form Paro , I thought — When one travels , most of the journey is that he experiences is ‘within’ . The place , the people , the culture , food and other things only become a medium !
I had developed a deep reverence for Bhutan . This tiny Kingdom nestled in the Himalayas, had touched a cord deep inside me . While this may sound strange , the journey was not just about looking at the landscapes or visiting temples . It was about finding something special , something magical that was very personal to me . I learnt to breathe , I learnt to let go , I learnt to be able to slow down .
This was during October of 2018 . I decided to leave my apartment and all of my things behind and go and explore on my own . It was my very first solo trip . I could barely contain the thrill and the excitement of travelling alone where I knew that the only company that I had to get on with was that of the land that I wanted to explore . This combination was kind of beginning to spin a yarn .
Packing involved bare essentials — a few warm clothes , sneakers , a backpack and a water bottle in the checklist of items . A lot of walking was about to happen .
Day 1 : Landing in Paro : travel to Thimpu — the capital city .
The day finally arrived. I quickly settled in the airplane after all formalities were done . I had no check in baggage . Just one back-pack .It was the lightest I have ever travelled , and for one moment it felt incomplete .Anayway , the plane took off .
LANDING IN PARO
Mumbai to Paro is like a Mumbai-Goa -merely 2 hours. However , it could not undermine the exhilaration of hovering over the highest mountains in the world with their peaks perching above the clouds . In no time we were cruising over the Himalayas .
Everyone was jumping out of their seats , trying to capture the perfect shot , muttering words of amazement while admiring the sheer beauty of the mountains . The snow-capped hilly terrain appeared like some surface on the moon … cold , white ,untouched and uninhabited . The journey into a mystical land had already begun .
When it came to practical landing, the plane lowered its altitude . This time it was below the clouds . The white rugged terrain that I had just seen had now now become , brown and green treacherous mountain slopes .
The airplane was maneuvering in a gorge , sometimes even at 45 degrees angle . It almost felt like the slopes are closing in on us . The winds were blowing pretty strongly I assumed . There was enough turbulence to get us us buckled back to our seats firmly. All the stories of the perilous airstrip began to play in my head now . I imagined a fighter plane landing on a tiny runway of a naval ship .There was indeed no room for error . A little bit of miscalculation would mean an absolute fatal outcome . As I gripped the handles of my seat , finally , the wheels touched the ground with a thud .
I was in Paro.
Once I landed , there was nothing else around except just unfurled land and the mountains . A concrete structure served as the airport terminal . I went in. There were some pretty girls behind their work stations — immigration staff . They had a very serene aura as they carried out their regular day’s job and contrasting their demeanor , tourists were busy creating their usual commotion .
Finishing the formalities I exited from the airport . I was greeted by Karma Wangchuk -my tour guide through out my journey in Bhutan .
I was pretty pleased . He showed me to the jeep . The agenda was to travel to Thimpu — the capital city directly .
The distance of 50 Km was going to take 1.30 hours. This was a good time for me to get to know a little about this place . He told me that the kingdom was under the King’s rule for almost 100 years . In 2008 it was converted from absolute monarchy to democracy . While looking at development and modernisation , the governmentwas very conscious about protecting their culture , religion and preserving nature .
The roads were winding around the mountains and there were small rivulets flowing everywhere . I could smell the crisp mountain air . The sunlight was now delicately warming the day .
This land was a world of mystical stories . Everything represented something and everything had a specific reason to be where it was or how it has been built .
There were stupas supposedly guarding occasional bends where they were built . According to Bhutanese tradition three hills, two rivers joining four paths is totally considered as very bad omens . The stupas here are considered animistic — as though a living being with a spirit of it’s own preventing ill lucks, bad fortune to the travelers who are travelling from this junction.
PRAYER FLAGS — I was intrigued by the iconic prayer flags in every nook and corner . I had seen them in pictures , but literally , they were fluttering everywhere — in front of homes, hotels, shops, temples, monasteries, religious sites, on rooftops and near roads, down in the valleys, up on the hillsides , on bridges, over rivers, and at mountain passes, attached to trees , attached to chortens and prayer wheels.
Karma said that these characteristically colorful prayer flags were not just pretty pieces of cloth . They carried out a meaningful duty . They were etched with texts and symbols for wisdom, peace, happiness and strength .
The flags had five different colours — blue, red, green, white and yellow. Each colour represented the five wisdoms of Buddhism and the five basic elements — sky, fire, earth, water and air.
It is believed that when prayer flags move , even with the slightest breeze, these prayers and blessings become activated, and then are carried through the air in a spiritual vibration across the vicinity. Everything that is touched by the wind, and all sentient beings, benefit from the prayers and blessings that are carried by the wind.
THIMPU CITY — Soon , we reached Thimpu City . There was a huge concrete structure like a gate , marking the border of the city .
We drove in . The city had a very calm yet happening vibe. The buildings had a unique and uniform architecture . They all had multi-coloured wood frontages, small arched windows, and sloping roofs. It made the city look planned and neat . People were clad in the national Bhutanese outfits . The roads were clean . There was barely any traffic . It didn’t look like a regular image that we carry of a capital city — busy , crowded metropolitan . It was just a small touristy hill-station .
I was staying at the the Ziwa Ling Ascent Hotel . I had no intention to stay in the middle of the city as my agenda was not to chase anything at all . The hotel was kind of tucked a little away from the city .The approach roadways leading into the woods . It offered a breath taking view of the Himalayas . The lush green hills around made tranquil ambience . The aesthetics of the hotel complemented the whole background really well with its earthy colours stone and wooden architecture .
My room had huge windows making the view of the surrounding unobstructed . I was taken back to the memory of a holiday at an Indian hill-station — Dalhousie . I had stayed at — Amog -A small rwooden resort built on the cliffside offering a breathtaking view of the mountains on one side , and the beautiful tall pine trees .
I kicked off my shoes and decided to rest a bit . . In the backdrop of the green mountain slopes , I could breathe the freshness in the air . The feeling of being on a lone journey had now started to come alive .
In a while , I was fresh and ready to leave . I sensed that the weather would get chilly , so grabbing a jacket , I took off for a walk in the city . I was initially going to the Thimpu immigration office to get myself the permit for Punakha . Just opposite to the office was ‘the artists village’ . It looked like a really attractive fair with stalls made of straw and bamboo and colourful artifacts , shawls and masks hanging outside for display.
People here were selling handicraft items that represented their nation in one way or another . Traditional art has two important characteristics: it is religious and anonymous. I was now already going to shop . This was indeed my favourite type of shopping . Not only was it unique to the country I visited , but I could also show my support to these local craftsmen women in my own small way.
After I got myself the permit for Punakha , I visited the ‘farmer’s market’ . I have always taken fancy to organic farm produce and so this visit was something that excited me . Farmers from all over Bhutan came here to sell carbide free , organically grown crops from their own farms .Chillies and pepper happen to be a very important ingredient in the Bhutanese cuisine . It was evident from the heaps and heaps of dried red chillies that were being sold here among other things .
By now , I was really hungry . So I asked my guide to take me to a place where I could eat some hot food . Zambala-2 was the place he took me to . . The location was pretty , right in the centre of the city around the traffic circle which happens to be one of the busiest intersections of the city . Apparently, there was a Zambala 1 also and both were supposed to be awesome.
The restaurant was on the first floor of one of the buildings in the centre square . It specialised in Chinese , Bhutanese and some Tibetan dishes too. The wooden interiors gave it a warm aura . We settled by a window from where I could see the city in action . We started off with ‘Suja’ the butter tea of Bhutan . It smelt like tea , but it was salty .
I ordered the minced chilly fried rice and a recommendation ‘pork pa” and vegetable manchurian with plain rice’ . Without much ado , the waiter got us the food . The portion size was huge and it looked like the local chines from an Indian stall — mouth watering . It had a lot of chilly and ginger . I thoroughly enjoyed it .
After , I just decided to walk along the main business street of the city . It was still pretty quiet . The weather had already started changing . There was a chill in the air now . A soft cold breeze was blowing . Apparently there are no traffic lights in all of Bhutan and the traffic cops man the traffic here .
We visited the memorial Chorten which was built to honour his Majesty , the third King of Bhutan . People were going around the memorial in circles , chanting some prayer very much like the ‘Hindu Tradition’. There were huge prayer wheels like pillars in the wall. Rotating them was supposed to help focus on prayer . They helped accumulate ‘good karma’ and purify negative karma . Fascinatingly , it is believed that in the area where the prayer wheel is built, all the beings (not only the people but also the insects), are saved from rebirth in the lower realms; they receive a deva or human body, or are born in a pure land of Buddha.
I was going back to the hotel now . In one day , I had got a pretty good pulse of the city . I was going to be in this mysterious and mythical land for the next 7 days and I had begun to grow really fond of it .
Day 2 : Thimpu city : Buddha Dordenma , Monastery , Local food .
SUNRISE AT BUDDHA DORDENMA — Next morning , I was awakened by the sound of a bird chirping at the balcony . It was 6:00 AM . The earth had somewhat frozen at night by the chilly weather . Now it was beginning to come alive — slowly . The early morning air smelled full of the freshness from the mountains and the valleys . It was cold and crisp . I made some coffee to wake me up . Karma was waiting for me in the lobby. We planned to catch the ‘sunrise’ from Buddha Point .
Stepping out of the hotel lobby , I could still feel the chill in the air . The car heater had made it pretty comforting inside . I just looked around . The woods looked privy , unihabited and yet , there was a hotel in the middle . The ride was merely 20 minutes . The city roads were yet quiet with minimum activity around , and when we arrived at the complex , the scene was different . It was a huge complex with a gigantic Shakyamuni Buddha statue in the mountains . The statue was so massive that you actually get a feeling of being ‘small’ like an ant when you stood in front if it . There were many smaller statues of Buddha inside the temple .
We just made in in the nick of time to capture the sunrise .There were many people all set with their SLR cameras on tripods stands — attempting to capture the perfect moment . It’s always breathtaking to witness the night changing to day, how the colours of the sky changed slowly from dark blue to purple and finally to shining gold, to see all elements on earth, the grass, the trees and the mountains coming alive by the power of the sun .
The first rays of the sun falling on the golden gigantic statue made it look powerful .
The whole valley was now clearly visible . Thimphu city cozily nestled in the womb of the endless range of mountains as it basked in the warmth of the morning sun.
Right down from Buddha point was a small nature trail . The air was so fresh that little morning walk in the deciduous forest felt really inviting . We took off . The track was uneven and even a little steep at some points . It was winding up between the tall wild grass and other shrubs that kind of marked the way . The trees rustled in the wind . As we were climbing higher , the view was getting even better .
By now , I was even breaking a sweat , stopping by to catch my breath every once a while . But it was completely quiet and peaceful .It was a short climb and within just about 15 minutes we had made it to the top .
There was a small wooden gazebo on the top . I sat there for a while , allowing this moment to pause — soaking in the beauty , beholding the view that surrounded us .
After a few minutes , we climbed down , almost ran down with a bout of fresh energy .
MONASTERY EXPERIENCE — Our next stop was a monastery . There were numerous monasteries and pagodas around . People followed tradition and religious ways of life quite habitually .
Dechan Phodrang Monastery was a beautiful fortress . It was surrounded by tall white stone walls that were were as though protecting a different world enclosed within them .
As I walked up the staircase , I could hear chiming bells .In one corner , there sat a kid lighting incense sticks and sharpening a stem with his whetted blade , the smoke from the incense was dissipating a very subtle woody aroma around . In the distance there were chanting voices .There was a mystical aura in this place .
Another kid was glad to take us around while he told us how the usual day looked like in a monastery .Yes , he knew how to speak English . Inside , there was a temple , a school were where kids were taught to be monks, an open space where the kids could play , a huge dining hall . It was my fist ever visit to a monastery .
Here the day began really early — even before sunrise . There were no alarms signaling the approach of dawn . Everyone was assigned their duty and the day unfolded in the same planned disciplined manner — day after day . Some of the kids were hardly even 4 or 5 yearnld . In their flaming red robes , they looked stunning . They were taught ancient concepts and principles and how to integrate them into their lives . The temples were charged with years and years of focused meditation and spiritual energy. It was the perfect place for transformation .
I had the opportunity to dine with them . It was a beautiful sight inside the dining hall . The rays of sunlight where shining in while the children were eating . The steam from the hot food was creating a nice dreamy effect as we all enjoyed our meal together .
A bunch of kids giggled as they played soccer . Their serious attire could not stop them from being just who they were . They were bonding beautifully . Karma said that such was the aura in which they grew that these children , who barely knew each other at the start of their journey became from friends to brothers towards a course of time .
The visit to the monastery was alluring . It introduced me to a different world — where people were full of compassion . No one was chasing life here . There was peace . And everything had a natural rhythm .
Later , I visited an Art school which taught simply Art and craft .
In the different classrooms , I saw that the kids were engaged in learning a variety of things like woodcraft , sculpture , embroidery , silversmith and tailoring .
Their creations were brilliant. They were earthy and intense, rich with talent . It exhibited sensitivity and imagination . It was the first school of it’s kind that I had visited where the focus was completely on building soft skills in and unstructured manner letting students explore their creativity and imagination. It was amazing .
LOCAL DINNER IN A MUSEUM RESTAURANT — It was already 6:00 pm . The sun was setting already and it was getting dark . The weather had become freezing cold by now . We were heading to a restaurant called ‘Simply Bhutan’ for dinner .
It was a restaurant lodged inside a Museum with the set up was of a traditional Bhutanese farmhouse . It served Butanese food tweaked to suit the taste buds of tourists . Inside was warm and inviting. We walked around looking at the display of the tradition and culture in the museusm .
As we settled , we were served ‘Ara’ — the local Bhutanese wine . Spent from a long day that began really early , I took a sip . Whether it was the potency or my exertion , I could literally feel the warmth of it flush my cheeks. It was sweet and fruity with a lingering aftertaste of peach . Later ,there was a traditional dance performance.
Dinner was a wide spread buffet typical traditional Bhutanese food. All the foods were in clay pots kept over a hot black stone stoves keeping the food warm. I tried their signature ‘Ema Datshi’ — a cheese and chilly stew . It was incredibly spicy . There was baked potato with cheese , spinach and cheese , baked beans with cheese and chillies .
There was lots of cheese and chillies in all the foods . It was certainly not a light meal but I loved the spices and the flavours that it had to offer .
I went off to the hotel to rest up . This day had given me a sense of the spirituality and traditions that made this country so unique.
Day 3: Thimpu to Punakha Valley -Farm stay
SCENIC DRIVE TO PUNAKHA — After breakfast, we started off on 2 hour stunning drive following the course of the Thimphu Chu river . Suspended walking bamboo bridges occasionally connected either sides of the river . I wondered what it really gave access to , because on the other side was usually an uninhabited mountain . I could see I vertical prayer flags clustered atop the mountains attached to poles along their vertical edge. They are mostly found huddled close together. Darchog as they were called were symbolically related to the Dhvaja (Victory banner). Besides , there were stupas around streams ,small temples in distant ends .
We were now onto the high mountain pass of Dochu La (3,050m). It was a cloudy day, and yet , we could see the Himalayan snow-capped peaks towering over us in the backdrop of the stupas erected by the Royal Queens of Bhutan. As a child , I had often imagined standing on top of one such mountain to be able to touch the sky !
From the cool heights of Thimphu we were now into the balmy, lush landscapes of the Punakha valley. We drove past the Punakha Dzong fortress — the winter residence of chief abbot and central monastic body of Bhutan. Built by the confluence of two mighty rivers of Bhutan , it looked majestic .
HOMESTAY EXPERIENCE — Located in Gupsthang Punakha -Gatsothang also known as Happiness fields was a charming little Homestay across one of the suspended bridges over the river . The idea of living on a farm came to me from inclination of organic, seasonal food, a deep desire to grow my own food .
The farmhouse was located into the lap of the mountains surrounded by acres and acres of lush greens. It lay on the other side of the river and the access was merely by the suspended footbridge thereby isolating it from the modern civilisation . Just like the backdrop of Irish countryside , there was practically nothing else around except the tall grass , mountains and the river flowing by.
The walls were built with grey stones and within , everything was wooden . The huge black window frames gave it a contemporary rustic charm. At first , I just settled in the dining hall where they served us some ‘butter tea’ . Later , I went on to the room where I was going to spend the night . A delicate breeze was making the lemon yellow curtains sway softly . The huge windows made way for the rays of natural light to illuminate the room . I was getting to live one day on the farm with the farmer’s family .
Lunch was some tossed vegetables food cooked from the fresh farm produce. The farmer’s daughter invited to take me around to pick some fresh fruits and vegetables . I was excited . There were pomegranates and olives , cows to milk, eggs to collect . I had a Hidie moment .
As we walked around the orchard , she said , “We are just farmers”, and she laughed . She started to give me an insight about their lives . The stories about their farm and how they grew their crops were fascinating .
The things that the farmer must be able to do are not fathomable . He must study the land , watch the sky , figure out when is the right time to sow and plant . He must know what to buy and when and how to sell . He must go to the market , and even sometimes with his cattle . It requires a strong mind and profound patience . The farmer’s family is bound by these value systems through years of experience and nurturing . Farming is true passion . It was just as though God needed someone to care for his earth , so he created the ‘just farmer!’
This evening , dinner was much more elaborate — consisting of brown rice , spinach with cheese , semi dry chicken with some red chillies, a fried potato-and-onion dish with an earthy flavor redolent of the vegetables that were harvested in the backyard. After the farmhouse feast, it was time to bunk down.I went into my room and my thoughts were drifting away .
Scrolling through my phone , I started reading about the place I was about to visit next — The famous Chhime Lhakhang , dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kunley, the 15th-century Tibetan magician, saint and exponent of ‘crazy wisdom’. He was known to live a truly bacchanal lifestyle full of wine, women, and poetry. His zany ways of wisdom engaged me so deeply that I almost stayed up the whole night .Finally , it took pattering raindrops on the roof to lull me to sleep.
Day 4 : Punakha to Chimi Lakhang
Too early, a rooster announced sunrise. I heard tinkling cow bells and the soft lowing of cows. With a warm cup of tea , I stepped outside . There was a wooden bench . As the white mist lifted from the river bed and the clouds gently glided almost at eye level , I was too glad to be where I was , breathing the fresh mountain air .
The hostess came and sat by me as we sipped on our hot tea.“When was the last time you had fresh cheese and butter ?” , she asked, clearly knowing the answer . She then took me around to her kitchen and just like that , we made fresh butter and cheese from the morning milk .
I had my breakfast under a beautiful canopy of trees — avocado on toast with some eggs , figs , and pomegranate juice . The was food picked right by me and the pleasure of eating it in the woods was something that will always remain as one of my fondest memories on the farm .
It was time to leave . My homestay had turned out more beautiful than I had imagined . In the hosts , I could feel a sense of contentment . They lived a self sufficient life . They were grateful for the bounty of nature and took pride in protecting it’s organic character . I had much to learn — I was humbly greatful .
MYTHICAL AND MAGICAL CHHIME LHKHANG — I was all set to visit Chhime Lhakhang. . The previous night’s reading had created enough curiosity within me . As though the universe conspired to add more magic to the moment , the owner offered to take me there over a bike . He said that the journey is so beautiful that it warrants being in an unrestrained vehicle to really make the most of it . So I hopped on .
The road was unpaved , narrow and rugged . It ran parallel to the river . The cool breeze felt truly amazing on my face .Each breath i took was full of the smell of the fresh grass , and the mist in the air . The wind was messing my hair and I was loving it . I felt like a free bird , cruising in the sky .
We parked at a distance and then walked across fields through the village of Sopsokha . A small temple was located on a hillock in the centre of the valley below Metshina.
The whole of Bhutan was endowed with serenity, peace, and beauty. This was no different, except that this place had just a had a lot more penises.They were in the form of door knobs , clappers of bells , keychains , artifacts and paintings . There were murals of penises on the walls outside houses that supposedly did the work of warding off evil spirits .
Also known as the “Fertility Temple,” this single building site was originally built in 1499 . It is said to have been blessed by this rogue Buddhist leader . “The Saint of 5,000 Women” worked overtime to spread enlightenment through an active sex life.
As I entered the temple , I felt an instant urge to sit down . People came in and out in a ritualistic manner . I observed a couple come in with a pretty girl . A monk came and blessed them with a wooded penis and they left . I sat for a long time just internalising what I saw .
PUJA EXPERIENCE — Soon there were a group of monks who came into the temple . They carried traditional instruments like gongs, bells and singing bowls. Unanimously they began to chant aloud , repeating a mantra with utmost piety, over and over again in a slow deep voices while the gongs kept beating in slow rhythm . They chanted in such harmony , that somehow all the voices seemed to merge into a single deep baritone note . The slow rhythmic chanting went on for sometime . There was smoke from incense sticks clouding around .The whole aura was charged with a kind of powerful energy that I could feel within my body .In a shot while , they ended the prayer and the monks receded one by one . Some kind of fear and reverence filled up my heart .It is often the unplanned experiences that can blow you away .
I had lunch at Chimi Lhakhang Teahouse reflecting upon what I had just witnessed .This moment had streaks of silence, community, and prayer all bundled together .
HILL RESORT — I was spending the rest of the day at Dhumra Farm resort . It was a bumpy ride uphill for a short wile . However , on top of the hill awaited an earthy resort with a captivating view . It was a quaint place with merely 6 rooms making it very private and exclusive . It was built on a farm and offered a stunning view of the Valley and the soaring river .To add to the charm , my room was massive with wooden floor , mute coloured walls and a ceiling with wooden pannel and soft lights .There was a long sitting area by the window perfect for a dreamy coffee . Everything inside the room was just enough for your comfort and yet so simple .
One thing that took my attention was that while booking this resort , our dietary preferences were taken over email . In my short stay , they carefully curated delicious, fresh tasty menu for breakfast and dinner according to the specifics . Most of the vegetables , fruits and herbs that went in preparing the menu came from their own backyard .
Attention to small details like these always go a long way for me .
Day : 5: Punakha to Gangteya Valley : Black Mountain Forest, the Home of Monpas — nomadic shepherds .
MOST SCENIC LANDSCAPE OF THE COUNTRY — From the lower altitudes of Punakha , we are now moving upwards to the Gangteya region also known as Phobjika Valley which is about 3000 meters above sea level . The Phobjikha Valley is located in the Wangdue Phodrang District. This valley boasts about the most stunning landscapes in the country .
A winter in Bhutan could not have been complete without this experience . Tall pine trees and delicate sunshine greeted me everywhere , but the sight of the sparkling snow was truly magical .
This tract of the country to which the name , Black Mountain applied was unique in every sense. It gave first, an impression of remoteness both in space and time. This great central ridge of the Bhutan , was a territory of huge black boulders of primitive rocks, misty and verdant forest and presented a succession of the most lofty and rugged ranges running from North West to South East direction, separated by narrow beds of roaring torrents.
I stopped by one such stream flowing along the mountain . There were brook trouts swimming in the white current . The silvery edges of their fins wimpled softly in the flow. In the deep glens where they lived all things were older than man and they hummed of mystery.
The journey continued in its much mystical fashion .
At the beginning of the valley was a beautiful white stupa , completely surrounded by prayer flags . With the mist in the air , the white stupa look astounding with the colourful prayer flags marking it’s territory .
Apart of being of religious significance , these flags had now started to represent the Himalayan culture in a way. They offered a sense of tranquility . There was something completely peaceful, completely centering, completely healing about listening to the sound of prayer flags flapping in the wind. I found myself wanting to just stand there, amongst hundreds of prayer flags, listening, breathing, feeling.
VILLAGE DATED BACK IN TIME — I was visiting the tiny rural village called Gagteya . This village looked archaic , almost to the point of being abandoned . Civilisation was barely marking it’s presence here .The houses appeared roughly built with casual unpainted wooden fencing around . I wondered whether they were inhabited . The plants outside had dried up due to the cold weather adding their dash to the rustic appearance of the village .There were barely any people around .
There was a town square of course, down in the road . Men were clad in traditional Bhutanese Gho -Kera and women wore Kira. In the town square there were small family-owned stores mostly catering to daily supplies. People here were mostly engaged in agriculture and handicraft . They also sold woolen garments made from yak wool . With such limited occupational means , people were just fending for their to their day to day needs .
I was really famished by that time. We walked up to a small local restaurant around the corner which was like a homestay and ordered some simple Bhutanese food which is all they had actually .
MEETING THE NOMADS — This Black Mountain Region was also inhabited by nomadic shepherds and yak-herders. The ancient animistic religion of Bhutan namely, the Bon religion, was still practiced by some of them.
They had their permanent homes in some other place , but spent months in the pastures with their yaks . Their belongings were bare minimum — just enough to survive I’d say and like ancient foragers .They could simply pick their things and move from one place to another and settle there quite plainly . They had a strong belief in their karmic deeds and fate. They showed no signs of prosperity , not even a mumbling chants and pujas . This was yet another primitive , timeless sign of connection to the ages that are now pages of history .
JUST LIKE A MOUNTAIN LODGE — I was staying at probably the only decent hotel in the valley : Devachen resort . It was quaint . The building was very charming, and the rooms are tastefully decorated in a basic mountain lodge style — with natural wooden furniture providing a nice warm atmosphere.
As I had not had much to eat for lunch , I was looking forward to a warm tasty dinner . The restaurant was on the first floor . It was cozy and centrally heated and it offered a stunning view of the valley . I was much early for dinner , but I was happy to be alone . There was a fire burning in the centre of the room and it was spreading the much needed warmth around .
I ordered some comfort food — dal rice and chicken . As always , the one thing I sart to miss first when I’m away from home is my kind of food .
My room was huge . It had a central heater to keep warm and it had a tiny fire place too . It was warmly lit and it offered an amazing view from the comfort of my bed .
I had a staff member come and light the fire for me . It was something that fascinated me . It gave me a feeling of spending a night in a mountain lodge .
This day had been different than all the rest — tying me back to a long time ago , to some stages of evolution . Perhaps ‘this time’ had come to let me experience and learn to appreciate simplicity and to reflect upon myself . To become more spiritual . To ponder what really matters and what does not.
Day 6 : Gangteya to Paro
I was now going to back to Paro — to visit the spiritually acclaimed Tiger’s Monastery . The Himalayan road was meandering , narrow and slippery from the rain and yet , alluring .
My guide said — there’s a less travelled road to reach there . “Let us hike up to a campsite that sits above the monastery , stay there the night . We will leave really early the next morning and hike down at a time where we do not find too many people” he said convincingly .
Although I deeply love oceans, deserts and other wild landscapes, it is only mountains that beckon me with that sort of magnetic pull to walk deeper and deeper into their beauty. They keep me continuously wanting to know more, feel more, see more.
So it was decided .We were going to take the less travelled route !
After reaching Paro , we bunked at Tashi Namgeya Resort and Spa . The location was beautiful, right opposite to Paro airport. There was a river flowing by — Pa Chhu river.
The resort had some interesting beers in the tap .While I enjoyed a hearty brew, the soothing sound of river flowing by kept me company at dinner .
I had requested an early morning breakfast in my room as I was checking out in the wee hours .
Day 7 : -Camping on the mountains -11000 m above the sea .
HIKING AND CAMPING UPON A MOUNTAIN TOP — The breakfast was elaborate and yummy . I was headed to a vertical climb of around 11500 meters above sea level . I was lightly packed . I left the rest of my belongings in the concierge of the hotel .
The walk was incredibly remote and pristine. We passed by an isolated village on the mountain pass. Endless rows of snow-capped mountains were adorned by crisp alpine air . A mighty rivers ran through the forges and ravines . It must swell when the snow from the beautiful peaks of the mountains melts under the golden warmth of the sun — I thought . It’s water was glowing and crystal clear , as yet undiscovered and unmarred by civilization. . This land was free from the grasps of humanity — completely pure in it’s design. And I was treading on it .
At 3000 meters above sea level , there was a temple where we were halting for lunch. Apart from the temple , a small wooden Gazebo with a wooden benches and a wooden table was the only structure within site . It offered a panoramic 360 degrees view of the Himalayas . As I sat there , I could feel the vastness of nature . My thoughts were soaring around the mountains like an eagle gliding freely with the wind under her wings .
A meal was served at the Gazebo . It was packed in hot cases and neatly laid on the wooden table . It was a simple vegetarian lunch, delicately flavoured, wholesome and steaming hot . I spent sometime basking in the sun , playing with a puppy who was joyfully wagging his tail and jumping around .
Buddhists here consider dogs equal in the spiritual ranks to humans, which makes dogs well cared for around the country. To the Bhutanese, these dogs aren’t just cute pups — they are infinite beings taking various lifeforms.
Soon after ,we continued up the mountain. It had started to get colder now and dusk was about to set in . I wore my thick down jacket. This time I walked faster as I wasn’t worried anymore about altitude sickness . I was already acclimatized. I could spot the campsite now .
I was beginning to feel the exhaustion form the uphill climb . And a thought crossed my mind — Being exhausted was a good thing because it forces us to stop and catch our breath . While we do that , we have the chance to appreciate the beauty that surrounds us. Watching the lush forest, the flowing water in rivers ,the falls and birds flying free in the sky can be really calming .
By then, my bag pack was digging into my shoulders. I slung it off and handed it up to my guide who obliged without hesitation .
Sometimes travel is a test — of our wits, our nerve, our endurance, or all of the above — and it can take us far beyond our comfort zone. This was my story — confronting my fears, testing my survival skills, and discovering just what I’m capable of.
In a couple of hours , we reached the base camp . All the high peaks in the Himalayan massif were clearly visible from here at the top of at 11000m altitude and everything around made my decision every bit worth it’s while .
The tents were already pitched and the caretaker was expecting us . He came running forth with a broad smile . He greeted us and instantly got us some warm butter tea and pop corn . It was still bright and it looked like we were the only ones going to be there .He later showed me to my tent .
Inside , there was a cozy little bed with warmers and quilts . There was a small lamp . My palms were numb from the chill now and holding that cup in my felt amazing . When I sat down I realised how spent I was from the climb .
Darkness covered the night sooner than I expected .
They lit a bonfire and instantly we were drawn to it . The heat of the fire clearly struggled to penetrate the chilly air. I sat as close as I could dare to feel the radiating warmth, holding out numbed hands for defrosting. The night had now grown silent and the crackle of the campfire was all that could be heard, like a crazy natural music.
Dinner consisted of some hot soup and Maggie — the mountain food . After a long day of hiking, all I wanted to do was to dig into tasty, comforting food that is quick and hassle free. On top of the world , cozied by the warmth of a crackling campfire and in the company of just myself and my thoughts , everything seemed to taste extra delicious . I enjoyed my meal and retired to bed .
I had wondered if I would be comfortable on top of a mountain — deserted, away from human access , what kind of wildlife and what type of creatures would be around .
THE MYTHICAL BELIEF — The Bhutanese guide gave me the most peculiar advice . ‘If a bear attacks you , hit him in the nose — his lifeline . If you see leaves swirling under your feet — run . It’s Yeti and he will kill you.” In Himalayan folklore, the Yeti is a monstrous creature. I laughed immediately. “Come on!” I said. He replied, “No! It’s true — my grandfather told me.” I knew it was too short a time span to figure out the spiritual, folkloric, and magical culture of this land . Indeed, I considered it healthy to question everything in life for the purpose of knowing. However, out here I started to wonder if skepticism was my easy way out of truly understanding the grayer areas of the world.
I was already there now , before any other thoughts crossed my mind , I was in a deep sleep , cozy and totally physically exhausted !
Day 8 : Paro -Taktsang, the folkloric monastery .
WAKING UP ON THE MOUNTAIN — Up in the mountains, I woke up as early as 4am — in peace, quiet and alone. I was alive and safe !
There were no other sound but silence… there were no other light but darkness. I was thinking of all the good things in my life…. At one point, all these good thoughts congregated inside my mind, and I felt connected to the Source that created me — the universe I’m living in. Involuntarily , there were tears in my eyes — not of a stereotypical emotion.
These incredible moments summed up to all that was relevant , of life !I was in a trans-like state when I finally started to hear human voices communicating in the distance… indicating that I’m no more alone . I felt like Neo from The Matrix -being pulled out from one world to connect back to the real world .
All the elements around started to be lit by the rising sun, the same sun that shines to give life to all. The sun that sits alone 150 million of kilometers away from us, which we often take for granted , because we get it all the time , yet it is so important to our existence .
There was an intoxicating aroma of strong coffee in the morning . I was looking forward to my cup. Breakfast was bread and scrambled eggs — another kind of ‘best mountain food’ . Being here , sipping the coffee while watching the incredible view, I felt truly blessed .
We started our two hour climb down to the monastery in the early morning at 6:45 am .
An occasional bird chirped in the distance . The day was picking warmth form the delicate sunlight .
THE TREK TO THE MONASTERY — 1,300 years ago, Guru Rimpoche, the second Lord Buddha, rode atop a flying tigress and descended upon a cliffside to subdue a local demon. He then meditated in a nearby cave ( now known as Taktsang) for three years, three months, three weeks, and three days…
Padmasambhava, also called Guru Rimpoche, Tibetan Slob-dpon (“Teacher”), (flourished in the 8th century), legendary Indian Buddhist mystic who introduced Tantric Buddhism to Tibet and who is credited with establishing the first Buddhist monastery there.
His visit to Bumthang in AD 746 is recognised as the true introduction of Buddhism to Bhutan.
…so the story goes.
With and early spike of adrenaline, we continued down the mountain in haste. Bushes shook and leaves rustled around us . Soon , there w the whipping sound of prayer flags, I knew we’ve reached the final cliffside trail.
A large prayer wheel stood atop the mountain before the final path. The wheel was still, and required human force to generate its spin. I felt compelled to follow the rituals afforded to me by my Bhutanese guide .
“Turning the wheel of dharma emanates peace over all sentient beings.”
I grabbed the handle and swung the prayer wheel around three times, an auspicious number.
Our final paces brought us to the edge of the cliff offering a clear view of Taktsang.
The Tiger’s nest monastery is one of the most famous and one of the most precariously perched monasteries in the country . It defies logic, gravity, and reason.
And at 8:50 am , we had it all to ourselves . I spent an hour atop the mountain gazing at the temple, contemplating — until a mist delicately brushed my forehead, hinting of rain — “it’s time to go”, I thought .
I have always wanted to adopt meditation in my daily life . Karma offered , “Prayer should therefore be short and pure.” This thought was comforting with a demanding workweek, hectic schedule, and numerous responsibilities at home. Nevertheless, I made a resolve to find time — in the morning , before the day began, and in the the evening before going to bed to calm my mind and meditate in prayer .
This time we were going to the base from where people usually started this trek . I could see a number of tourists going upward . Some on horses , others holding walking sticks and making their way up .
There was a vast open patch of golden grass which looked like a pasture for grazing animals in summer . To me , at that moment , it was a secluded pic-nick spot surrounded by the pine forest . We halted there . I was breathing heavily and I could smell the alpine air. It was a beautiful day neither , too bright nor too dull .The caretaker from the campsite had packed some home-style food for us as we left .
Karma was leaving me now . It was his last day and I had a beautiful journey all through out , thanks to him .
While the Tiger’s Nest climb was absolutely stunning , it was nonetheless strenuous, so I felt that it was only apt to stay at a hotel property where I could be comfortable and be pampered all the same .
I was staying at Le Meridien Paro, Riverfront Hotel . The location was stunning … right on a beautiful clear river with majestic mountains as the backdrop. Even despite the fact that I had spent all my days among these mountains , I could not get enough of them . All of the rooms had a view of the pristine river . As i checked in , I realised that the city girl in me was longing this kind of an pampering to end the holiday on a luxury note . I took a swim in the warm indoor pool followed by sauna .It all just felt like the perfect things to do after my climb.
Feeling refreshed from a hot shower in my fancy room , I ordered myself a glass some red wine with chicken club-sandwich and finally I had nothing to do — so I pulled out the book that I had been carrying all through but never touched — Barbarians at the Gate — a story about real people with real money . I felt like I was reconnecting with my life back home . That was a different me — A person busy in worldly activities . I kept reading until finally I was drowsy and snuggled into the soft white sheets .
Day 9: Back home
I had an early morning flight to catch . The hotel was kind enough to pack an elaborate breakfast with sandwiches , muffins , some fruits and fresh juice .
My lone travel had touched a different cord inside me . My mind had wandered to realms that excited me … to wonder, to experience, to explore one magical word…. existence!
========================================
Facts
- Indians travelling to Bhutan need not necessarily have a passport.
- Indians do not need a visa (only a travel permit) to visit Bhutan.
- The travel permit can be obtained from the Immigration office upon arrival.
- All major currencies are accepted in Bhutan. However, Indian currency (Rupees, INR) is also accepted and is at par with the Bhutanese currency (Ngultrum, Nu).
- Bhutanese currency does not consist of coins. They only have notes and most of the prices of objects or things are in the denomination of 5. Yes, even their pricing system is as simple as them.
- Do not rely on ATM machines. Most of the international cards (debit and credit) are not permitted for use in Bhutan . So, carry cash.
- There is a minimum currency spend per day per person applicable in Bhutan for tourists. But, please note, this is not applicable for Indians travelling to Bhutan.
- The food of Bhutan, unlike its people, is very spicy and hot. Most of the preparations are with cheese (probably, yak cheese). Vegetarian food is easily available here .There are many Indian restaurants too like ‘Spices Indian Restaurant‘, ‘Masala Junction’, ‘Chula Restaurant’, and others.
Plan your trip to Bhutan
Packages for 8 Nights and 9 Days
Unavoidables : INR 34200 per person.
- Flight : from Mumbai : INR 32,000/-( Approximate ) per person .
- Insurance : INR 1000/- ( Approximate ) per person
- Permit : Tourists from India, Bangladesh ad Maldives will have to pay a ₹1,200 fee for entering the country. The fee is called a ‘Sustainable Development Fee’ (SDF). The fee will be charged from July 2020.
Accommodation and Food for 8nights.
Bag packing Bikers : INR 29000/- per person on twin sharing basis
Accommodation for 8 nights : INR 21000/- including breakfast per person on twin sharing
Food for 8 nights : ( considering 2 meals a day ) INR 8000/- per person
Sample of what you get in this…
Thimpu : 2nights
City Hotel Thimphu : INR 5000/- including breakfast
Average price per meal : INR 500
Tower Cafe
Punakha : 2 nights
Damchen Resort : INR 5000/- including breakfast
Punakha :
Cheap eats : Chimi Lhkhang Cafeteria : INR 500/- per person per meal
Gangteya : 2nights
RKPO,Green Resort : Inr 5000/- per night with breakfast
There are no restaurants and Cafes in an around Phobjika Valley. So the dining option is restricted to the hotels.
Paro : 2 nights
Khangkhu Resort : INR 6000/- including breakfast
Cheap Eats : Paro
Champaca Cafe : INR 500/- per person per meal
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Intermediate : INR 61000/- per person on twin sharing basis
Accommodation for 8 nights : INR 45000/- including breakfast per person on twin sharing
Food for 8 nights : ( considering 2 meals a day ) INR 16000/- per person
And a look at what you get..
Thimpu : 2nights
Terma Linca Resort & Spa : INR 15000/- per night including Breakfast
Morerate meal :
Cloud 9 Cafe : Thimpu : Average meal per person : INR 1500/-
Punakha : 2 nights (There are limited options to saty here )
Dhumra Farm resort , Punakha
Moderate priced meals : Punakha : INr 1500/- per person per meal
Lobesa Village restaurant Punakha :
Gangteya : 2nights
Devachen : INR 10000/- per night
There are no restaurants and Cafes in an around Phobjika Valley. So the dining option is restricted to the hotels
Paro : 2 nights
Le meridien : INR 10,000/- per night
Moderately priced meal
My Kind of Place-Paro : INR 1500/- per meal per person
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
SUPER Luxury package : INR 2,51,000/- per person on twin sharing basis
Accommodation for 8 nights : INR 171,000 /- including breakfast per person on twin sharing
Food for 8 nights : ( considering 2 meals a day ) INR 80,000/- per person
Splurge away
Thimpu : 2nights
Taj Tashi Bhutan : INR 50,000/- per night including breakfast
Fine Dining
Chig-ja-gye at Taj Tashi : INR 5000/- per person per meal
Punakha : 2 nights
Dhensa Boutique Resort : INR 21000/- per night includign breakfast
Fine Dining in Punakha
Bukhari : COmo Uma Punakha : INR 5000/- per meal per person
Gangteya : 2nights
Gangteya Lodge Bhutan : INR 50,000/- per night including breakfast
Fine Dining :
Gangtey Restaurant : INR 5000/- per person per meal
Paro : 2 nights :
Como Uma Paro : INR 50,000 per night with breakfast
Fine Dining
Bukhari : award winning restaurant at COMO Uma Paro: INR 5000/- per person per meal
— — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — — —
Best time to visit Bhutan :
- March, April, May ( Spring )— The weather is pleasant and valleys will be in full bloom adding a variety of colours to the beautiful landscapes .
- late-September to November (Autumn) — The air is at its clearest in October, so you’ll be greeted by amazing Himalaya vistas. There might be an odd shower here and there in September, and temperatures will start dropping in October.
Various festivals that happen during this time.‘Tshechus’ (district festivals) happen separately for each district. Thimphu tsechu and Paro tsechu are the biggest tsechu celebration in Bhutan . While Paro tsechu takes place in the month of March/ April, Thimphu tsechu is celebrated in September according to lunar Tibetan calendar.
- June to August — low season due to lots of rain and land slides .
Places to visit in Bhutan
Best places to visit in Bhutan are:
- Paro — Paro hosts Bhutan’s only international airport and is the second largest city in Bhutan. Paro is located at an altitude of 2200 meters from the sea level. The most popular place to visit in Paro is Taktsang monastery also famous as Tiger’s Nest monastery and Rinpung Dzong or Paro Dzong, which is a monastic fortress that overlooks the Paro valley.
- Thimphu — Thimphu is the modern capital of Bhutan and is located in the central western part of the country on the banks of Wang Chhu River. It is the political and economic centre of the Kingdom of Bhutan. Thimphu is located at an altitude of 2334 meters from the sea level and is 50 kilometres away from Paro. The statue of Buddha Dordenma, Thimphu Dzong, Memorial Chorten and the Takin Nature Preserve are the most visited places in Thimphu beside museums, temples and the market. If you are a trek lover, then Tango and Cheri monastery in north Thimphu are worth visiting.
- Punakha — Punakha was the old capital city of Bhutan . Today, Punakha remains the administrative centre of the Kingdom of Bhutan. It is located at an altitude of 1242 meter from the sea level. Two major rivers named Mo Chhu and Po Chhu flow through the district of Punakha. Punakha Dzong, Chimi Lhakhang and the Punakha Suspension bridge are the most visited places in Punakha.
- Phobjikha — The town of Phobjikha lies in the district named as Wangdue Phodrang. Phobjikha lies at an altitude of 3000 meters from the sea level. It is located in central Bhutan. The main attractions in Phobjikha are the Phobjikha valley popular for the black-necked crane festival and Gangtey monastery. Phobjikha valley is also worth a visit as it provides a unique experience staying in smaller villages compared to other tourist spots which are mainly cities
- Bumthang — Bumthang is located in central Bhutan and is considered to be the religious heartland of Bhutan. It is located at an altitude of 2800 meters from the sea level. Bumthang has the most number of temples and historic site than any other city/ town in Bhutan. Bumthang valley and several temples and monasteries form the places to visit in Bumthang. Bumthang also has a domestic airport connecting it to Paro.
- Phuentsholing — The city of Phuentsholing lies in the district named as Chukha. Phuentsholing is regarded as the trading, financial and industrial capital of Bhutan. It lies on the border of Indian town named Jaigaon and is the main entry point from the Indian side. It is located in the south western part of Bhutan. Phuentsholing is a low-lying town and lies at an altitude of 293 meters from the sea level. Bhutan Gate, Karbandi monastery and a couple of temples are the famous places to visit in Phuentsholing.
The ways to enter Bhutan from India.
Note : Bhutan does not have a railway track. So you can either reach Bhutan by air or by road -
Reach Bhutan by air:
One can directly fly to Paro International Airport however connectivity to Paro is limited to few Indian cities. Mumbai , New Delhi, Kolkata and Bagdogra in West Bengal, Guwahati in Assam and Gaya in Bihar have direct flights to Paro. Flying to the international airport in Paro, Bhutan is quicker but a relatively expensive way to reach Bhutan especially if you are travelling in a group. ( Approximately INR 16000/- one way )
Reach Bhutan by road:
Entering Bhutan by road is the cheapest way to reach Bhutan but it would mean having one more day in your itinerary. Tourists visiting Bhutan for a vacation can only enter through Phuentsholing border gate. (south-western Bhutan)
Reach Phuentsholing by air + road:
Bagdogra/ Siliguri in West Bengal is the nearest airport from the border town of Jaigaon. You can fly to Bagdogra from your location as Bagdogra is well connected to major Indian cities via air. You can also take a train or drive to Bagdogra based on your convenience. You can then reach Jaigaon by road or rail. Jaigaon is 160 kilometres (around 5 hours) away from Bagdogra airport
- The quickest way to reach Jaigaon from Bagdogra would be via private taxi or
- For a cheaper way, you can hop onto a bus to Jaigaon or hire a shared taxi/ jeep
- You can even take an auto, shared taxi or prepaid taxi to New Jalpaiguri railway station and buy tickets for Hasimara, the nearest railway station to Jaigaon
Reach Phuentsholing by rail:
Hasimara station is the nearest railway station from the border town of Jaigaon. You can reach Hasimara in train and then can travel by road to Jaigaon. Jaigaon is around 17 kilometres away from Hasimara railway station. You can hop onto a bus to Jaigaon or hire a shared taxi/ jeep or a prepaid taxi to reach Jaigaon.
How to get permits to enter Bhutan — For citizens of India.
Citizens of India, Bangladesh and Maldives do not need a visa to enter Bhutan but a permit is required. A valid Indian passport valid for at least 6 months from the date of entry into Bhutan is a requisite to enter Bhutan.
Permit for Bhutan if you fly to Paro:
If you fly to Bhutan, the permit formalities are done at Paro airport immigration office. At the airport immigration office, you will get a permit to visit Paro and Thimphu only. If you wish to travel outside Thimphu or Paro i.e. to Punakha, Trongsa, Bumthang or Haa valley, you will need to get an additional inner-line restricted area permit from Thimphu immigration office before you travel to these places. Thimphu immigration office is open from 9AM to 5PM BTT (Bhutan standard time). The office is closed on Saturdays, Sundays and Bhutanese public holidays.
Permit for Bhutan if you enter by road from Phuentsholing:
The Bhutanese immigration office is located in Phuentsholing very near to Bhutan Gate. The permits to enter Bhutan are issued here. Please note that you can roam about in Phuentsholing, visit the sight-seeing places and stay in hotels in Phuentsholing (only up to 3 kilometres range) without a permit. The immigration office in Phuentsholing remains open from 9AM to 5PM BTT (Bhutan standard time). The office remains closed on Saturdays, Sundays and Bhutanese Public Holidays.
Online regional permit system:
The easiest way to get permits to Bhutan is through a Bhutanese tour operator. There is an online regional permit system that facilitates online processing of permits for citizens of India, Bangladesh and Maldives through registered Bhutanese tour operators. If you use this system, you can get permits much before you reach Bhutan
