Santorini-Greece : Exploring the fabled Aegean seas .
To celebrate our landmark birthdays we decided to head to the land of Gods, Santorini whose stark white and blue enchanting beauty had been calling me for long.
Here in India, we’ve lost the privilege of walking in the stone paved streets where for thousands of years merchants , travellers and people have walked. It would be a dream come true to walk through the beautiful narrow, terraced streets of Santorini with bed-&-breakfasts scattered all around.
Finally making it happen : We planned our visit in the mid of June 2015 . We had booked our holiday for 4 nights . (But I think 2 more nights would have been better.)
APPROACHING Santorini Airport :
We had taken the mid afternoon flight from Athens to Santorini . It was a clear blue day . As the jet started approaching the airport , I could see a huge endless plateau upon which a town was nestled . The volcanic mountains forming many crescents along the bay creating a shape like petals of a flower . I had read about the Caldera :The famous sea lagoon formed when the centre of the island collapsed into the sea . Only now , I could see it from the sky. The excitement of finally landing into this fabled island was getting the better of me .
The airport was small and the amenities were not too great . Getting passed immigration , we quickly boarded our pre-booked cab to the hotel .
The journey began and like any inquisitive traveller I started noticing whats around me . The land was flat and arid , just reminding me of what I had seen from the air plane . There were some kind of shrubs on the ground everywhere .
It took around 30 minutes to reach the city though the distance is merely 5.5 km . The taxi dropped us to a point from where the hotel was a short walk .
Fira :
Santorini’s has two main HOT SPOTS : Fira and Oia . We wanted to be in the thick of things … so we chose Fira .
Walking along the street was a quite a nice way to begin experiencing this place . As we took a turn around the corner of the street I got my very first glimpse of this beauty . The cobbled streets , the bougainvillea and some other pretty plants bearing bright
pink flowers hanging around from the sides of the white walls , the typical blue domes were all adding the dash of color to the otherwise white backdrop . It had started building a feeling like we have embarked upon a journey in a magical fairy land .
The timing turned out to be great . The weather was warm and sunny . The city was bustling with all the action and yet wasn’t like a crazy rush of tourists like in July and August which happen to be the busiest months here .
There were several boutiques hotels on the cliff with private terraces with plunge pools, gourmet restaurants , first class facilities and luxurious spas . This Greek island was chic at its best .
Santorini Reflexions Volcano hotel : We had to walk down a couple of stairs to reach our hotel . And at that point , it didn’t matter that we were carrying our luggage . It was so picturesque that it wouldn’t create the same impact if there was a simple access like any other hotel we might have stayed in before .
The hotel room was simplistic but charming . The walls were made of stone which gave it a nice character and a cooling effect . The color theme was true to the place where it belonged : white and blue. There was a cute coffee table by the bedside with small woody bright blue chairs making it look quirky and inviting . And to top it all , the room opened into a small balcony that offered the amazing view of the cliff side and the vast blue ocean .
After resting a bit we set out to explore this beautiful town . Immediately the flavor of the city started to grow upon me . The street was lined up with small boutique stores selling nick-knacks . They were so vibrant and colourful that they made the whole street come alive . There were very cute “tavernas” ( Greek cafes are called so! ) too ..attractive and enticing . Happily , we soon got busy shopping from here and there and creating the need for everything that we saw . I could sense that every moment was prolonging , taking its time , creating a memory so vivid that was going to last a whole life time .
The beauty of the setting sun
Soon enough the day was drawing to a close and it was the first much talked about sunset that we were about to witness on this land . We just walked to a ledge around the street and settled there for the moment . The view from any place is picture perfect and no amount of clicking could possibly do justice to the beauty that it sets forth . It felt like the whole town was kind of momentarily spellbound , mesmerized by its unmatched beauty .
After a long day well spent ,we needed some rest .That evening we picked up some beers , olives and feta cheese and headed back to the hotel room .
Oia : Arguably more picturesque of the two , but just a tad bit I would say :
The next morning I woke up early before sunrise . I had planned it so I could get one quiet moment by myself to soak in the beauty around me before the world woke up . Walking into the balcony , I got completely carried away . Soft breeze and the smell of the ocean was waiting to greet me . A cup of coffee and a feeling of joy deep inside were my company and all that I needed .
The morning started slowly waking up the rest of us . After breakfast in our room we set out to explore Oia that day . The bus terminal was very close by . We had figured out the route and timing for our journey the previous night itself and it was pretty simple because we were boarding at the first stop and would get off at the last stop of the route .
This town was very cute and indeed more artistic . The whitewashed houses built like caves on the cliffs had a very traditional Greek touch and looked absolutely stunning . There were blue domed churches everywhere and the streets were narrow and more quaint than Fira . The busy part was only mostly the main street which ran parallel to the cliff . As we were walking along , we came by Melitini , a quirky looking taverna . As it turned out , we were all hungry and needed to rest up . This place served us some freshly brewed beers and small portions of Greek cusine . Perfect for the afternoon .
Later , we walked up to the end of the island to Oia castle to get some amazing views of the city .
But frankly speaking ,the crowd was overwhelming and it dampened my spirit of being there . I should have opted for a more tranquil spot at the end of the island somewhere .
Nonetheless , as the sun started to lower itself to the horizon , my mind blanked out the crowd as though it didn’t exist . The white town started basking in its golden rays as though painted in gold , the ocean started to glisten like sparkling diamonds , and there was this one path of fire … from the sun into the sea leading to the land … as though one can walk on it . It was enchanting !
Later that day we stated our climb down those 300 steps to Amoudi bay . Looking at the view from the top made me actually feel like I had seen this one from the airplane too … while landing . I’m pretty sure of it .
The descent is steep but definitely doable and worth its while . There was also a scenic road where one could probably walk or drive if they wanted to avoid the steps .
By the way you can ride a donkey up and down these stairs in case u are not up for the climb.
The waters are crystal clear and absolutely inviting for a swim .I wish I had carried my swimming gears .
When you are greeted to a sight like the one below you know that every step was worth it !
Having read the reviews on Tripadvisor and other blogs , we were well in time to get a decent place at Katina’s fish Taverna . This place is rated number 1 for the Greek sea food on may blogs and no reservations can be made here . So I guess , luck was in our favor .
I finally got my chance to indulge in : Moussaka one of the signature dishes of Greece — minced lamb, fried pureed tomato, onion and garlic, topped with layers of sauteed aubergine, small potatoes bechamel Sauce and cheese . Besides , the fish was awesome too . Accompanied with some to beer and my dearies .. It was a perfect sun downer .
Kind of forgetting that we had to climb to that summit again !
The crowd slowly dwindled away like some film was fast-forwarded from crowded busy day to a quaint tranquil night . We got back just in time to take the last bus back to Thia .
Finally back to the room , my friend made some green tea . Getting comfortable in our beds , we browsed through the pictures that we had taken , happy moments.. captured for life .
Sip Swish Swallow : Day 3: Wineries , Wine and Vineyards.
This morning was about taking it easy . Revisiting the streets and mostly chilling around .
In the afternoon we had plans to visit the Vineyards .
Santorini — according to “Wine Enthusiast” magazine –is among the top wine-destinations in the world!
We were visiting the very top rated : Venetsanos . All the Agean sailing cruises halt here , and its pretty crowded then . But fortunately we were not going to be flocked due to the fact that we were the early birds in terms of season .
Not only in Santorini , but all over Greece , brewing your own wine is a common . Guided by tradition and pure passion , wine , food and feast becomes the spirit of Greece .
Santorini vineyards are rather unique. They don’t look like the ones in Napa, Tuscany, Bordeaux or Spain . They are vintage ( almost 3500 years of wine making in this land ) . The vines look like a bush .They are entwined to form a shape like a basket . This protects the fruit from the harsh climate .
I’ll tell you a little something about the wine you get here . This is the island of white wines. Asyrtico : being the star . Aidani and Athiri following closely . They have high acidity and minerality . In red wines — Mavrotragano and Mandilaria are great . Usually they are made from dark fruits like dates and cherries with traces of the very native Greek herbs .
Wines like these are paired with mezethes — small plates of food used to complement and enhance the taste of wines.
Goat cheese and Feta , some thick paste made form fava beans , cherry tomatoes and lots of olives . ( There’s a story of the Greek godess Athena gifting an olive tree to Athens !)
Classic dips with freshly baked breads are integral too . Tzatziki — blend of yoghurt, cucumber and garlic : with some extra virgin olive oil — mouth watering yum ! . They call it the taste of Greece, and why not . The flavours are a burst of salty sea waves and the glistening sunlight .
Happiness is — sharing quality time with good friends, enjoying a bottle of wine, and engaging in long, heartfelt conversation.
But I am a very big wine enthusiast. And yes , good wine was attracting great company .Wine-lovers from around the world , seemed to connect with each other randomly , enjoying , comparing vintage preferences, and talking about life’s ups and downs.
The setting sun( yet again !!) in the background of the imposingly beautiful landscape made it a wonderful and dreamy night !
Last day :Ancient Thira Tour
History instigates a sense of mysteriousness . Its the story connecting what is to what was . … revealing the truth about evolution .
The excavations in Mesa Vouno Mountain by Greek archeologists revealed that there used to exist a whole city here .. a settlement from the Hellenistic Period. (the period of Mediterranean history between the death of Alexander the Great in 323 BC and the emergence of the Roman Empire ).
Walking alongside what remains of this once bustling town transported me to a very different era …There were remains of two cemeteries, a theatre, markets, pagan temples, Christian churches, baths , public and private buildings … I was only left imagining how people might have lived upon on a ridge of a mountain so steep , how a sophisticated society thrived here , how religion might have played an important role .
There’s also a story that speaks about Therus — a mythical Spartan ruler who was the descendant of Cadamus ( a great hero and a slayer of monsters ) — who originally lived here after whom this place was named Thira .
Stories like these are all . Its made of these kind of fables and fantasies .
OPA : Greek dinner : The final evening .. a bittersweet feeling looming in the heart .
We got back to the hotel to rest . That evening we had made bookings at Santorini Mou , an authentic Greek restaurant in the outskirts of Oia . The plan was — music , dance and food .
We had booked a taxi so that we could relax and not worry about the commute on this last night .
We settled in at a table . There was a nip in the air . We noticed that the mood had already kicked in for night . There was slow Greek music , people were dancing holding hands and hopping around forming a chain , cheering and laughing , smashing plates occasionally (Opa : a Greek custom that symbolized new beginnings ) feasting and celebrating in general.
The restaurant had organised Zorba , the traditional Greek Dance and music fest . The the steps were footwork combinations of just 2 counts each . . It all looked simple and yet so elegant , starting off slowly and then picking up the pace. The artists started to invite everyone to join in and we all did too . It just felt like we already knew this stuff before …. … grooving with so many others to the Greek music was just too much fun .
It was an evening full of entertainment . There was yet another performance — mind blowing acro-yoga by some really great artists . I wish I had filmed it so i could actually put it up here for you guys . But I guess I was just too busy having a ball myself .
All in all the atmosphere was very lively and made it a perfect evening to end the holiday .
Things you ought to know about Santorini:
- How to get here : You have to fly to Athens first (the capital of Greece) and then take either a 40mins flight from Athens to Santorini or a 5 to 8 hours ferry which operates only during the season time .
- How many nights : I’d say a minimum of 4 to 5 nights to cover everything .
- Santorini or Mykonos : Santorini is more romantic , More things to do and see . ( no sandy beaches here ) . Mykonos is a party island with long sandy beaches .
- When is the best time : June to September , May and October can also good but sea water is a bit cold to swim . ( If you go in winters you can stay in Fira where a few restaurants and hotels are open round the year . )
Where to stay :
Connection from one place to another is within 30 to 45 minutes and so it really doesn’t matter much where you stay .
- Most Romantic also most expensive : Imerovigli (with the best honeymoon hotels only 2.5 km away from Fira )
- Nightlife and the shops , bus station: Fira
- Best sunset views , more artistic , don’t care about budget : Oia ( 7 km away )
- Best Family Place-ideal for kids , Beaches , Cheapest Hotels : Kamari, Perissa or Perivolos (close to the beach , lots of tavernas , cafes , supermarkets , shops . Distance to Fira : 6 km)
- Avoid Steps and stairs: if you have issues with your knees or in general you cannot use any staircase or steps you should better stay close to the beach where there are no steps anywhere and avoid areas such as Fira , Imerovigli, Oia and Firostefaniey
Things to do in Santorini AtoZ.
- Sunset cruise : with meal and drinks : Sail past beautiful Red Beach and White Beach, and jump off to swim and snorkel.
- Wine tasting and vineyards
- Trekking the volcanic mountains and hot springs
- Explore the ruins
- Greek food and nightlife
- Island hoping
- Beaches ( non sandy but crystal clear water )
Can be combined with :
Athens : 3n , island trips : 3n , Sailing itinerary : 3n
Best islands near Santorini: Mykonos, Naxos, Folegandros, Ios and Anafi.
Mykonos :amazing beaches and the celebrity vibes. The ferry takes about 2.5 hrs and there are about 4 ferries per day . You can also take a direct flight : 20 min . Road trip will be around 7 hours .
Naxos or Ios : Both : accessible only by ferry . Less than 2 hours distance . Ios has some of the best beach bars/clubs of Greece (along with Mykonos obviously…). The best one is by far the famous Far out Beach club .
Do not combine Santorini with Crete and Rhodes : You need to spend at least a week in each one of these places to make the most of it .
How much will you spend for 4 nights :
The calculation is base upon 2 people travelling :
Part A :
Unavoidables
- FLight (Mumbai -Athens -Mumbai ) : INR 50,000 /- per head
- Flight ( Athens-Santorini-Athens ) INR 10,000/- per head
- Visa : Greece visa fees for Indian citizens: INR 5000/-
Additional service fee: INR 2000/- The processing time for applications for a Greece visa for Indian tourist is maximum 15 days. - Insurance : INR 1000 /- per head ( approximate per person )
- PVT Airport transfer : INR 3500/- per way .
PACKAGES :
Super premium
Mystique, a Luxury Collection Hotel-Oia /Cocoon Suites-Imerovigli / Andronis Boutique Hotel-Oia / Santorini Secret Suites & Spa
Meals
Price Range :INR 3000 to 7000 per head for starter, main, wine/beer etc.
Alali Restaurant : -Oia . In the romantic backdrop of Oia , renowned chef Adam Kontovas presents creative Mediterranean dishes made using famous Greek products such as avgotaracho (bottarga), Kozani saffron, yellow split peas and fresh chloro cheese.
La Maison Restaurant-Location: Imerovigli -Fine Dining :This rooftop dining area painted in warm colors, with plants and decorative details that give it an exotic feel . In terms of the food, Dimos Samourakis and Vasilis Sdrougias have created a menu of creative international cuisine, with lots of Greek, Japanese and French ingredients and techniques.
Lycabettus : A romantic candle-light dinner awaits you here with the most tranquil ambiance . You can have a dinner á la carte or choose a tasting menu with accompanied wines. Top quality food with price tags of course .
Super premium for 2 : INR 4,23,000/-
Part A : Unavoidables: INR 1,43,000/-
Part B : Hotels: INR 200,000 :
Part C : Meal : sINR 80,000:
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Premium :
Sophia Luxury Suites-Imerovigli, Athina Luxury Suites-FIra / Mill House Elegant Suites- Thera /Katikies Hotel- Oia/Orabel Suites (Adults Only)-Perivolos .
— Average price per night with breakfast : INR 30,000/-
Meals
Price Range : INR 1500 to 3000 per head for starter, main, wine/beer etc.
- Argo restaurant :Fira : Modern Ambiance, unique music , excellent sunset view . Vegetarian Friendly, Vegan Options, Gluten Free Options too ! Starting with a basket of amazing freshly baked breads ,refreshing salads , clay oven pizzas with the most amazing greek herbs , fresly preparesd pastas , gourmet foods and desserts .. everything is classy here .
Melitini -Imerovigli: Probably the best place for Mezes and Tapas ( little dishes , small bites ) . Try their dips smapler , and their own crafted beer . Very cute looking . Reasonable prices .
Sporos organic kitchen -Megalochori: Traditional Greek environment. Organic kitchen with carefully selected produce from Greek organically certified farmers . Amazing vegetarian, healthy and nutritious plates .
Metaxi-Mas -Exo Gonia : It isn’t quite fine dining but it isn’t rustic home cooking either. It falls somewhere inbetween, offering an interesting menu that’s unique and big on flavor.
Katharos Lounge -Vegan food at Katharos beach Oia : Very pretty looking small cafe by the sea near Oia . Serves small nibbles . Very tasty Greek food . Quite private and less crowd .
Premium for 2 : INR 3,23,000/-
Part A : Unavoidables : INR 1,43,000/-
Part B : Hotel: sINR 1,20,000/-
Part C : Meals: INR 60,000
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Mid Range :
Hotels : Porto Fira Suites- FIra / Costa Grand Resort & Spa-Kamira Beach / Aressana Spa Hotel and Suites- Thera / De Sol Spa Hotel-Fira
— Average price per night with breakfast :INR 15,000/-
Meal :
Price Range : INR 1000 to 3000 /-
Il Forno Pizza and Pasta : Kamari : Probably the best pizza on Santorini. Pastas are awesome too . There are calzones , hot sandwiches and some wraps too . There’s plenty of variety (almost too much choice!), serving sizes are decent and the taste is great.
Marmita : Megalochori : Based on the Meditteranean cuisine and the local recipes of Santorini . Great, good looking , and unpretentious food .
Tranquillo -Perissa: A chilled beach bar set right on the beautiful black sand beach of Perissa. Awesome cold beer , chirpy hosts and fairly large portions of casual and awesome tasting food !
Ouzeri-Fira : Try classics like meatballs in Ouzo sauce, fava, tomato fritters, keftedes with Ouzo, moussaka and souvlaki, and wash it down with Santorini wine or raki (if you’re feeling brave). The fresh fish and seafood are also delicious.
Mid Range for 2 : INR 2,43,000/-
Part A : INR 143000/-
Part B : INR 60,000/-
Part C : INR 40,000/-
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Budget :
Hotels : Finikia Memories Hotel-Oia / Hotel Atlantida Villas -Oia / Blue Dolphins-Firostefani
— Average price per night INR 10,000/-
Meal :
Price Range : INR 500 to 1000 /-
Passaris Bakery : Oia : Be surprised at both the large portion sizes of the cheese and spinach pies we the lower prices. 2 pies and 2 double Americano coffees only cost 8 euro.
The Family Bakery : Megalochori : get a pastry and coffee. Open 24 hours daily, they serve an extensive array of pastries, breads, cakes, and savory dishes. They even have gelato.
pitoGyros Traditional Grill House -Oia : This is probably one of the best cheap meals you can have in Santorini and also one of the best gyro places in Oia.
Falafeland- Fira : This place next to Fira bus stop serves healthy street food . There’s a small sitting area as well as they serve take aways and do deliveries . They also serve wine and beer . Vegeterian food is awesome , hummus and pita , dips and wraps.
Lucky’s Souvlakis -Fira : Souvlaki is a popular Greek fast food made with small pieces of skewered grilled meat served with tomato, onion, fried potato, tzatziki (yogurt sauce), and pita bread. Be prepared to stand while eating. It isn’t very big either, consisting of a bar and just a couple of tables
Budget Range for 2 : INR 215,000/-
Part A : Unavoidables : INR 1,43,000/-
Part B : Hotels : INR 40,000/-
Part C : Meals : INR 32000/-
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