Surfing Waves of Nostalgia

Kealey Kostos
Sports Writing in America
3 min readApr 26, 2022

In the sports column “Mavericks”, the author Alice Gregory writes a narration on the Mavericks Invitational — a big wave surf competition held in Half Moon Bay, California. Having been at the competition in person, Gregory thoroughly sets the scene of the competition using sensory details by describing the setting, competitors, and spectators. Moreover, she uses the dialogue of competing surfers to showcase the characteristics of the surfing lifestyle. Although Gregory predominately tells the story of the Maverick Invitational using these elements of writing, she inserts herself into the story by revealing her love for surfing. Gregory utilizes these elements together to show her nostalgia for the surfing lifestyle.

Gregory uses precise descriptions and sensory details throughout the essay to effectively describe the environment of the Maverick Invitational. To open her story, she describes the setting of the competition in great detail: “The air smells faintly of saltwater, and strongly of bonfires, diesel fuel, and weed. Seagulls squawk, the sky on the horizon is just turning green.” Gregory is appealing to the readers senses through describing the scent, sound, and sight of the setting. She continues to narrate the competition in depth by describing both the competitors and spectators. She describes the competitors to be “the color of terracotta” wearing “cloven-toed” shoes and “skintight unitards.” Additionally, she describes the crowd to be consisting of “stupidly handsome Australians, even more obese adults in 49ers gear, and a good number of cruel-seeming young boys.” Gregory’s great use of detail fully paints a picture of the competition, allowing the readers to feel as if they were there experiencing it.

Furthermore, Gregory uses dialogue of characters in the essay to show what makes up the surfing lifestyle. Towards the beginning of the story, Gregory asked one of the competitors, Shawn Dollar, why all of the competitors are so old. Dollar responded, “It’s scary as shit…It takes you years and years and years to break down fear.” Gregory utilizes this quote to reveal the underlying fear, thrill, and amazement of surfing. Further in the essay when the surfer Peter Mel had been announced as the winner of the Maverick Invitational, Gregory uses dialogue to showcase the community of surfers. Peter Mel said, “We do the mutual thing, you know, as a brotherhood…We decided to split the cash.” Gregory uses this quote to show the brotherly environment amongst the competing surfers. Through dialogue, Gregory exploits the different traits and qualities that makes up the surfing lifestyle.

Moreover, Gregory inserts herself into the story by sharing her own experience in the surfing world. She uses the sensory details and dialogue from the Maverick Invitational to present to the reader the type of lifestyle that she once lived, then connects it with her feelings of nostalgia. She mentioned that she doesn’t remember the last time she had fun since she stopped surfing: “I haven’t felt anything like that in at least six years, not since the last time I went surfing.” She is revealing her longing to return back to the surfer lifestyle. Towards the end of the essay, Gregory expresses her love for surfing, “There is no place more beautiful than where I am at right now, and nobody cooler than the people who surf here.” In this quote, she is pointing out her admiration for the surfing world, revealing her nostalgic feelings.

Gregory uses sensory details and dialogue to not only describe the Maverick Invitational, but the characteristics that make up the surfing world. She strategically utilizes these elements to thoroughly present to the reader what the surfing lifestyle entails. Gregory connects the narration of the competition to her own experience in the surfing world. These elements work together to describe the surfing lifestyle and present Gregory’s past experience in it, ultimately raising the deeper meaning of nostalgia.

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