Country within the country | Take #1
District: Aveiro, Portugal
Oh my, how long it took me to get myself together and do it. Several years collecting photos and stories from many-many parts of Portugal… and never had the guts and time to put it together and share in a proper way. So all my dear friends, who asked about cool and “must see” places — rejoice!
I warn from the beginning, don’t wait from me extra detailed guides with routes, museums, hotels and so on. NO. My goal here is to inspire, inspire to come and visit Portugal. I say Portugal, not Lisbon, not Cascais and Madeira, Portugal.
Starting point: Aveiro.
Why? No specific reason. I’ve been there past weekend, not the first time and no doubt will come back later again and again. Aveiro is situated on the coast and has its own lagoon along the city with absolutely charming boats going through the canals. Call it Venice or whatever, simply it’s a really nice place to visit.
What to do, start with checking out the center of the city. Architecture is gorgeous. Aveiro is one of few cities in Portugal that preserved incredible details of Art Nouveau style. Right in the center you’ll find the Art Nouveau Museum. Fish market, old railway station, little crafts stores and many-many azulejos and floral details around the city. By the way, apparently now there is a free bike service, so go for it!
Moliceiro tours, the tourist boats going across Aveiro through the canals. Personally I think it’s a great way to get the overall idea of town, no need to doubt, you’ll love it.
Actually this time I went to Aveiro, because I’ve been told to visit the Fish Market, the one that is located in Costa Nova, in Ílhavo. That was a great discovery! Colorful beach houses, that used to be fisherman haystacks, amaze you with its absolute integrity. Total celebration of calçada portuguesa (kind of pavement you’ll see I think in any place in Portugal) with its fish all around…
Inspired by the freshness of all the seafood we decided to keep walking along the coast and stopped in this place to have lunch. You’ll say we could order some delicious Robalo caught just in the morning..? yes, but it was too chill and windy, so we ordered a hot and savory Caldeirada de Peixe. Good, but not the best, later I’ve been told that if you decide to stay to eat on the coast — go to Marisqueira, a classic one and pretty much for the same price.
And there you go, melancholic paradise — Costa Nova Beach, and there are few more not far away. Want to promise myself to go back there in summer, must be great. Plus, you can do all kind of water activities, from stand up paddle to surf and kitesurf.
“There is something about the momentum of travel that makes you want to just keep moving, to never stop.”
― Bill Bryson, Neither Here nor There: Travels in Europe
