Talking about surf is talking about conservation!

An overlook about the importance of World Surfing Reserves

Francesco Catapano
Surf Worldwide
7 min readDec 23, 2016

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Ericeira — Ribeira D’Ilhas — ph. by Honula

Today Honula starts a series of blog post’s about interesting topic as Marine Engineering, oceanography, and marine dynamics of coastal areas.

Thanks to Guilherme Clarindo Marcos, the author of this article and of next ones, you will have a scientific perspective and an explanation about how the Ocean works and much more!

Today Guilherme talks about World Surfing Reserves, focusing about the amazing one in Portugal: Ericeira, the first World Surfing Reserve.

Enjoy.

Since 2009 there is a program that serves as a global model for preserving wave breaks and their surrounding areas by recognizing and protecting the key environmental, cultural, economic and community attributes of surfing areas.

The name is World Surfing Reserves (WSR) and proactively identifies, designates and preserves outstanding waves, surf zones and surrounding environments around the world. Is directed by Save The Waves Coalition, along with key partners National Surfing Reserves (NSR) Australia and the International Surfing Association (ISA).

HOW WORLD SURFING RESERVES WORK

Gold Coast — WSR — Ph. by http://www.savethewaves.org/

After applying and being selected, each WSR location creates a Local Stewardship Council and site-specific Stewardship plan to implement and manage the reserve.

World Surfing Reserves is governed by a global five-member Executive Committee with the assistance of a vision council composed of 17 members.

WSR eligible waves and surf zones are evaluated and chosen based on the following criteria:

1) Quality and Consistency of the wave(s)

  • QUALITY OF WAVE(S)
  • SURFABLE DAYS per YEAR
  • SITE OF PRO CONTEST
  • WAVE VARIETY

2) Environmental characteristics

  • RECOGNIZED BIODIVERSITY HOTSPOT
  • THREATENED SPECIES PRESENT
  • CONNECTED TO WATER RESOURCES
  • PAST/PRESENT WAVE THREAT LIKELY TO BE MITIGATED
  • PROTECTED DESIGNATIONS
  • UNDEVELOPED AREA
  • KEY ISSUE IDENTIFIED
  • CLEAR AVENUE FOR LEGAL PROTECTION LOCALLY
  • PROVIDES KEY ECOSYSTEM SERVICES

3) Culture and Surf history

  • SITE OF NATURAL CULTURAL SIGNIFICANCE
  • IMPORTANCE IN SURF HISTORY
  • SITE OF REGIONAL SIGNIFICANCE

4) Capacity and local support

  • LETTERS OF SUPPORT FROM:
  • SURF COMMUNITY
  • GOVERNEMENT SUPPORT
  • NGOS
  • BUSINESS
  • ACADEMIA
  • SUSTAINABLE FINANCING
  • CLEARLY IDENTIFIED MANAGER
  • SURF IS KEY PART OF LOCAL ECONOMY
  • CLEARLY IDENTIFIED RESERVE AMBASSADOR
Punta de Lobos Chile — WSR

Basically Save The Waves staff will briefly reviews the applications and send a response regarding its completeness within two weeks. If the application is complete, it will then be evaluated for potential eligibility as a World Surfing Reserve. If the application is not complete, Save The Waves will return the submission to the applicant and request further information.

Sites are evaluated on a combination of the above criteria, so in certain instances areas that score very high in one category and lower in another might still qualify and be accepted.

Conversely, sites that score extremely low on one of the criteria might not be accepted despite ranking high on others. Additionally applications for sites that don’t provide sufficient documentation or evidence regarding the various criteria might be delayed or asked to resubmit an application at a future time.

The Reserves

World Surfing Reserves maintains a rolling application process, and include those that have been fully dedicated and implemented as WSRs, those that have been approved but not yet dedicated, and those that are going through the nomination/application process but haven’t yet been approved.

Only eight waves, around the world, have won this title. They are: Malibu (USA), Ericeria (Portugal), Manly Beach (Australia), Santa Cruz (USA), Huanchaco (Peru), Bahia Todos Santos (Mexico) and the most recent, Punta Lobos (Chile) and Guarda do Embaú (Brazil).

ERICEIRA

ph. by www.facebook.com/AZULericeiramag

Tecnichal overview

Quality/Consistency:

Ericeira is a world-class surf zone that has a variety of waves ranging from beach breaks to powerful reef breaks. Some of the notable breaks in this area include iconic spots such as Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos, among others. Its best surf season is from Fall-Spring (October-May).

Surf History/Culture:

The ancient population of Ericeira was inhabited by an ethnic group called ‘Jagoz’, different from the neighboring villages because this group lived almost exclusively from the sea. Similarly, the community of surfers at the core of this Reserve have been here for years, quietly living off the quality and variety of surf offered up on a regular basis. Ericeira has been a destination for years and today is now home to numerous surf schools and other surf-related businesses, in addition to regional and international surf competitions. Ribeira d’Ilhas currently hosts the Quiksilver Pro Portugal each year, an ASP men’s prime professional contest.

Environmental Characteristics:

The coastline is dominated by rocky cliffs and punctuated by beaches located in small bays. The waters of the Ericeira coastline are some of the richest in biodiversity in the world. Up welling mixes a tremendous amount of rich nutrients on a regular basis. Portugal has around one thousand marine species and commercially fishes sardine, tuna and Atlantic mackerel.

The Ericeira World Surfing Reserve is a world-class surf zone encompassing approximately 8 km of coastline. It contains a high density of outstanding surf breaks, including iconic breaks such as Ribeira d’Ilhas and Coxos, among others.

The character of the Ericeira coastline is defined by rocky cliffs punctuated with beautiful little bays and secluded beaches. The ancient population of Ericeira was inhabited by an ethnic group called ‘Jagoz’, different from the neighboring villages because this group lived almost exclusively from the sea. Ericeira was visited by members of the royal family, monarchist and republican aristocrats, that built their vacation homes, and were regarded as the first sunbathers of this village.

Since surfing arrival in the mid-1970s, Ericeira has become the focal point for Portuguese surfing. The number of surfing-related businesses that have sprouted up in the area continues to grow and Ericeira has already placed one of its own on the ASP World Tour in professional surfer Tiago Pires.

The diversity of waves in the area, along with their various degrees of difficulty, offer consistent opportunities for all levels of surfers, from beginners to professionals. Ericeira is also home to numerous surf schools, in addition to regional and international surf competitions. Ribeira d’Ilhas currently hosts the Quiksilver Pro Portugal each year, an ASP men’s prime professional contest.

ph. by Luis Rodrigues

A vibrant marine ecosystem, an established yet burgeoning surf culture, and a community centered around ocean pursuit and enjoyment are the perfect setting for successful management of coastal resources. The Ericeira World Surfing Reserve Local Stewardship Council seeks to maintain and guarantee the healthy marine abundance of local waters and foster the continued responsible enjoyment of local coastlines for all users.

More info:

Savethewaves

Ericeira — First World Surfing Reserve — Facebook Page

About the author of this Post.

Guilherme Clarindo Marcos holds a degree in Marine Sciences from the University of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria (Spain) where he was oriented to the management and marine dynamics of coastal areas with a focus on marine physics research and its interaction with the coast, participating in various scientific events and projects worldwide.

Also at the University of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, he carried out his master’s studies where he specialized in hydrodynamics and coastal risk, orientation to physical oceanography and climate of coastal areas and their social and environmental implications working in support of research projects in the department Hydraulics and environment, numerical wave modeling, coastal risk assessment, flood level calculations.

Currently is Assistant researcher on The Centre for Marine Technology and Ocean Engineering (CENTEC), is a research centre of IST, recognized and funded by the Portuguese Government through the Foundation for Science and Technology of the Portuguese Ministry of Science and Technology. CENTEC concentrates its activities on developing scientific research, development and demonstration, and their application to sustainable exploration and exploitation of marine resources, through the various fields of interest such as maritime transport and ports, ocean space utilization, including coastal areas, exploration and exploitation of marine resources, and nautical activities, as well as the protection of the marine environment and its resources. These activities are made possible by the design, construction, maintenance and planning of operation of ships and other floating structures and submersibles that constitute the main objectives of CENTEC’s activities.

He is developing a Phd tesis in Doctoral Programme in Naval Architecture and Marine Engineering, dealing topics such as modeling marine dynamics, onshore and offshore for different fields of application, like a marine energies and safety in navigation in the marine environment.

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