Exchanging languages with a Czech artist

Maybe my big nose stud was a giveaway, or maybe people of every country know in which part of the world women wear a nose ring. Well, it was the beginning of our conversation, at least. That was the first thing he asked me when we met him in Prague…Praha, as the locals call it, as I fondly remember it.

It was a hot, sunny day. I was visiting Prague for the first time. In fact, this was my first international solo trip, so it was a big deal for me. I was 26, and I guess I was already too old to be taking my “first” solo trip in some foreign land, but better late than never, right?

Fortunately, I had my friend of 20 years plan the trip. She lives in Munich, and this was also her first time in Prague. Yes, she also wears a nose ring, a simple, round one.

Like any other excited tourist, we first made our way to the Prague Castle, in a swanky Audi A7 that we got as a ride to the historical complex. If you look up the place on the Internet, you would know that it is the largest ancient castle in the world, according to the Guinness Book of Records. The minute you turn into the narrow slope that takes you up to the castle, you’d know why this place holds such a record.

The gigantic fortress looms above the Vitava River. The castle complex houses a number of defence towers, palaces, churches, and halls, but the most important and the most beautiful structure inside is St. Vitus’ Cathedral. A walk through the Golden Lane gives you a chance to observe the stunning Gothic structure from the outside, and admire the peculiar column designs, the mythical creatures standing guard on each tall vault, and the clock tower, which can be seen from anywhere in Prague.

The inside is even more impressive, with large stained glass windows adorning each wall and telling a different Biblical story.

The castle complex is a hive of activity. It was the weekend so we expected a large crowd, but what we saw was insane. Every corner, every turn, the entrance of every hall, had a performing artist entertaining the visitors, either through their music, or by clicking pictures with them in their ancient costumes, swords, and horses.

But outside, on the main castle wall, sat this man alone, oblivious to the flurry of activity around him. He was propped up on the wall, sitting on a thick blanket, and painting the beautiful view of the city that spread out beneath him. We stood next to him for a few minutes, enjoying the view, trying to get a peek at his creation. And then, he turned.

Before we could look away and allow him to continue with his work, he jumped down from the wall and walked up to me. He pointed to his nose and said, “Krásná…beautiful.” I smiled awkwardly.

“Are you from India or Pakistan?”

I was taken aback for a couple of seconds. How did he guess? My friend saw my look and answered, “You guessed it right, we’re from India.”

The old man smiled widely at us. He instantly joined his hands together, bent slightly, and said, “Namastey! It’s a good day!”

“Yes, it is,” we said together, and asked him if we could have a look at his paintings. He brought out a bundle from under his blanket and showed us different landscapes of Praha — the castle gates, the riverbank, the old city square at night. They were all beautiful.

Well, he was also selling them. We picked two paintings out of the lot. “I sell these for €15 or 300 Koruna, but for you pretty girls, I will take only €10 each.” We bought our souvenirs, thanked him and turned to leave when he stopped us.

“How do you say ‘thank you’ in India?” he asked us. We smiled, and I replied, “Shukriya.” He joined his hands again, flashed that warm smile at us, and said, “Shukriya, ladies. We say — Děkuji,” and turned to his painting again.

Of all the beautiful memories I have from Prague, this small exchange with the old man is perhaps the fondest. Every time I look at his painting that now decorates my study table, I think of that warm smile, and those two words of Czech that I learned, thanks to a complete stranger.

If you are looking for language partners to improve your foreign language skills you can find it on swaplanguage.com.