Google it: Fonio — a ‘miracle grain’ you’ve probably never heard of
Part 2 of the “Google it: Ancient grains” series
What is it and why is it a trend?
Pierre Thiam, the famous chef from Senegal, helped bring fonio onto the world’s stage in his Ted talk back in 2017, dubbing it the “forgotten ancient grain that could help Africa prosper”. Since then, interest has continued to rise.
Having been cultivated for more than 5,000 years, fonio really is one of the most ancient of grains (for context, quinoa has been cultivated for 3,000 years), cloaked in myths and superstitious beliefs. In Senegal, growing fonio around one’s compound is believed to keep curses away, the Dogon people in Mali believed fonio is “the seed of the universe” where the Earth sprouted, while in ancient Egypt fonio was found in the pyramid’s burial ground, implying that it is worthy enough to be taken into the afterlife.
But myths aside, fonio boasts some very real health benefits. Compared to other cereals, fonio is relatively lower in carbs, high in fiber, iron and other minerals, is naturally gluten-free and has a low glycemic index — making it an ideal choice for those looking to regulate their blood sugar or weight. It flourishes in otherwise inhospitable environments of drought, high temperatures, and sandy soils, and requires very little water and fertilizer to grow. The fact that it also grows in as little as six to eight weeks means it is one of the most versatile, resilient and fastest (if not the fastest) growing grains out there. Thiam calls it “the lazy farmer’s crop”, because all farmers have to do is wait for the first rain to fall and then throw fonio seeds on the ground — no soil prep necessary.
All eggs in one basket?
What many may not realize is that we’ve come to rely on very few crops for our food. Three quarters of the world’s food comes from just 12 crops and 5 animal species, while out of some 300,000 edible plant species only 3 (three!) — rice, wheat, and maize — provide half of the world’s plant-derived calories. Add potatoes to this equation, and this calorie count grows to 60%. Not to mention that these same crops are also used to feed the livestock that we eat — wheat and corn single-handedly occupy half of the farm acreage in the US.
Over-reliance on such large areas of monocultures leaves our food supply highly vulnerable to diseases and pests. The Irish Potato Famine in 1845, resulting from a fungus that ruined half of that year’s potato crop and affected the crops for the next 7 years, caused the death of more than one million people and devastating long term economic effects. Today, our damaged and nutrient-deprived soils are starving, and this lack of soil health is what many are saying will bring about the next wave of humanitarian and socio-economic problems. Thus, “agrobiodiversity”, the variety of edible plants and animals that make up our everyday diet, is being regarded as key to future food security by experts.
Fonio is one such ancient grain that could be re-introduced. And we’re seeing interest in other similarly ‘forgotten’ but highly nutritious and sustainable food sources like Sorghum and Moringa on the rise as well.
All these grains can provide a rich and varied nutrition, and bring greater resilience to our food ecosystem. Many of these lesser-used ingredients are resistant to the stressful conditions — from extreme droughts and temperatures, to inhospitable soils and terrains.
Will it last?
In short — yes. Ancient grains, of which fonio is most often cited, are projected to be one of the biggest food trends of 2020. Consumers are growing tired of the same old food on their plate, and ancient grains offer a more flavorsome, nutritious, and good-for-the-environment alternatives that are often cheaper than the staples they currently buy.
But much like with millet, processing fonio is a challenge. The seeds are small and have an inedible skin around them which traditionally women process with a mortar and pestle, taking 2 hours to process 1 kilo. To accommodate the rising demand, farmers will need to switch to more sophisticated and expensive technologies, and work through a fragmented supply chain, which will be challenging.
This, of course, invites large corporations which have such resources to take over and fill this demand — putting the farmers, the seeds, and the land at risk of being overtaken and overshadowed. This cautionary tale, which starts off as promising economic benefit, soil regeneration and more wholesome nutrition for the world, only to exasperate the problem we were trying to solve for in the first place, is one we’re all too familiar with. But that tale is for another day.
One thing is certain — we need to move from feeding the world, to nourishing it. And this needs to start from soil up, in a thoughtful and wholesomely sustainable manner.
Check out my previous related articles on this topic:
- Google it: Ancient grains trend revives interest in Millet
- Google it: Regenerative Agriculture
