Turner Rentz, III·15 hours agoThe WallFortune gives us nothing we can truly own like a sandbar that shifts from the storm this moment is won in the right place at the right time else the breakers will slam you hard against the wall and the shifting sand will take you where you cannot go and life gives you one shot to speak truth to power through ice and wind and fire it gives you a chance to hold the line but no better than an ugly Christmas Sweater if you cannot find from the Hurricane a trip through the green room hands outstretched in electric truthSurfing1 min readSurfing1 min read
Turner Rentz, III·19 hours agoThe JungleI see the light through the back of the wave sighting down the barrel spray from my rail throws droplets in the air that spin and glisten like a chandelier I hear the sound of the air like a telephone call from heaven as I spend some time in the green room riding the tube…Surfing1 min readSurfing1 min read
Michael-David Ker (5.1 Projector)·1 day agoWestward WhaleSpringtime, around a decade ago, I was lucky enough to be in north Malibu, surfing really fun, overhead, Westward beach with almost no one out. It was mid-week, but still so rare to have no crowds with the waves this good. …Surfing7 min readSurfing7 min read
Russ GraysoninPacificEdge·3 days agoWoman in a white vanThis is a story that took place over a few minutes of a cloudy day by the sea. Nothing exciting happened. There is no dramatic climax to the story. No surprise ending. It is merely the documentation of things seen and thoughts passing—an introverted tale of the everyday. — COMING DOWN the short but steep hill I turn right and ease the van into the space between the white lines that mark the parking slot. Not that I need to be so meticulous. …Surfing6 min readSurfing6 min read
Sebastian Traeger·4 days agoLiving abroadChris was a German man who had been living in Australia’s Gold Coast for many years. He had moved there as a young man, drawn to the sun, sea and surf that the coast was famous for. Now, in his mid- thirties, Chris couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. He had…Surfing4 min readSurfing4 min read
Mad MidoriinNew Writers Welcome·5 days agoOcean loveSurfer’s haiku — Rolling waves calling Daring to play with their force Mountains of water Blue ocean turns grey melting with soft skies above seagulls crying out Licking salty lips Watching raw tides push and pull the sea lures me in Paddling stroke by stroke I pass breaking white and green frothy wet…Surfing1 min readSurfing1 min read
Anthony SignorelliinWellness Travel Adventures·Mar 23Member-onlyReflections on Health at 60 from Costa Rica…and the seeds of a new commitment. — Yesterday, Cheryl and I walked down the beach to the vendors who rent surfboards and teach surfing lessons. We are both intrigued by learning to surf. Mind you, I’m 60 years old. I’ve never surfed. That can’t stop us. We watch the surfers from the beach. We watch the surfer…Surfing4 min readSurfing4 min read
Andre Gagiano·Mar 21Took me 40 years to learn how to surf.Took me 40 years to learn how to surf. I’m 47 now. So why did it take me so long? FIXED MINDSET We carry our past with us. Until we decide to break free. I never thought I was worthy of brandishing a surfboard because, my uncle told me that…Surfing2 min readSurfing2 min read
Sebastian Hallqvist | Modern HealthinMind Cafe·Mar 20Member-onlyWhat Surfing Can Teach You About Life — 9 Lessons On The Art of Catching the Right WaveOpportunities are not like busses — Life is funny. We spend much of it searching for the things that will make us happy and fulfilled. Then, when we find one such thing, it’s usually like discovering a part of us that was there all along… I was 28 years old when I first tried surfing. Compared…Surfing10 min readSurfing10 min read
Rhett Wilhoit·Mar 20Day 116 — a good day for Florida man Part 2When we arrived at the gate to the beach. There were half a dozen cars in front of us. I’m assuming they couldn’t read because there was a giant blinking road sign that said “USE BOTH LANES”, but for some reason, everyone was in the right lane. We decided to…Surfing4 min readSurfing4 min read
