11 Years on 11th June: Nanyuki Getaway
For 3 days and 2 nights I got to escape the June cold of Nairobi. To celebrate her eleventh birthday I took my daughter to Sweetwaters Tented Camp in Nanyuki. The camp is inside the sprawling Ol Pejeta conservancy. The drive took about four hours. Our driver for the day was Wilson from Absolute Adventure Safaris. His decade long driving was evident from the way he drove. Fast enough to overtake a few cars but not too fast to leave you grabbing your seat in fear. He told many stories along the way. The most memorable was of the unattended charcoal on sale by the roadside. Legend has it that the Kamba owners have placed curses on the charcoal. Due to that they can leave them unattended for long stretches of time.
How would that curse play out- would the offender carry a piece of charcoal with him for the rest of his life?
Serena Sweetwaters Tented Camp
We arrived at the hotel in the early evening; to fresh squeezed orange juice and warm towels. The hotel is simple yet elegant — a mix of concrete and safari tents. On one end is the main reception which holds the dining hall, lounge, bar and gift shop. To the right of the reception is the deluxe Morani wing consisting of 17 double, twin and triple tents. To the left is the standard wing which features spacious tents with either a king bed or two twin beds. At the center of the grounds is a watering hole where wildlife come to quench their thirst as well as lick salt. The animals are so close to you- seperated by a ditch with an electric fence.
Hidden behind some flower bushes was an S shaped pool with deck chairs and tables. It looked so inviting.
Dinner was from 7:30 pm. A buffet with a wide range of options. I don’t know about you; but I struggle when presented with too many options. At every meal time; I stood staring at the buffet wishing that my digestive system was like that of a cow. In the end we agreed to each pick a different meal then share.
After dinner we moved to the lounge area to unwind by the log fire.
While the days were bright and sunny the evenings got chilly and windy. The wind howled in our tents in an eerie sort of way; causing the tent to flap like a flag in the wind. The hotel was gracious to provide us with hot water bottles to warm the night.
Chimpanzee Sanctuary
On the second day we went on a game drive. The hotel has both morning and night game drives. Wildlife roam within the 90,000 acres. Five minutes into the drive we spotted an elephant. Huge and imposing with it’s tough looking grey skin and huge trunks. He stopped to relieve himself- the muscles on his giant legs straining and bulging as he crouched. He was magnificent.
Our first stop was at the chimpanzee sanctuary. The sanctuary rehabilitates orphaned and abused chimpanzees from around the world. It was heart-breaking to read and hear the trauma that the animals have gone through. Hunted for their meat as well as for circus entertainment and as pets. At a young age they are separated from their mothers. The poachers often kill the mother. Sharing close to 98.8 % of their DNA with humans their trauma mimics that of humans. They become depressed and hostile often avoiding interaction with other chimps.
The sanctuary holds 39 chimps. The chimps are neutered to control their number as the cost of care is exorbitant. One can support the sanctuary by adopting a chimp. For more information visit: https://www.olpejetaconservancy.org/wildlife/chimpanzees/sweetwaters-chimpanzee-sanctuary
Rhino Sanctuary
Next stop was the rhino sanctuary; approximately fifteen minutes from the chimp sanctuary. We got to see more game on the way; most exciting was to spot a lioness with her elderly cubs. The cubs looked ready to attack a herd of buffaloes that were grazing nearby. The folly of youth as the driver guide told us. The cubs were out-numbered by the large herd of buffaloes. An attack would leave them injured or dead at the worst.
The rhino sanctuary is a glaring reminder of the effects of poaching. In the 1960s the rhino population stood at over 20,000; currently there are less than 1000. There are two species of rhino: northern white rhino and the northern black rhino. They are both black in color; the difference being the shape of their mouths as well as their diets. Black rhino has a hooked lip to pick twigs from trees and while the white rhino has a flat mouth to graze with.
Northern White Endangered
The northern white are on the verge of extinction with the death of the last male in 2018. Natural fertilization with the last surviving females failed. The conservancy is considering IVF- a pioneer expensive option. Ol Pejeta sort to raise USD 9 million to fund the campaign. For more information visit: https://www.olpejetaconservancy.org/wildlife/rhinos/northern-white-rhinos/
Among the fundraising initiatives of the conservancy is an annual cricket match. The ‘Last Male Standing Rhino Cup’ was named in honor of Sudan- the last known northern white male rhino. Our weekend getaway coincided with the event days.
After the drive; it was back to the hotel for a relaxing massage at the thatched massage room. The spa offers a range of beauty treatments to leave you feeling relaxed and pampered.
We checked out on day three at 10:30 am with a packed lunch and contented hearts.
I would rate the camp at 4.5/5 stars. Attentive customer service, great food, extensive activities, cleanliness and great location.
Margaret
