How To Keep Vampires Out of Your Yard
The tastiest vampire control you can grow!
History has long told us that garlic will repel vampires. Medieval Europeans believed that vampirism was caused by a blood disease that could be combatted by carrying garlic. If we consider the blood disorder porphyria, we can see the basis for their belief. Porphyria is actually a group of inherited liver disorders caused by enzyme abnormalities. Sufferers can have a whole host of symptoms including sensitivity to the sun. Garlic contains a chemical that makes porphyria symptoms worse, so those afflicted with the disorder learn to avoid it. We can see how the disease and the odiferous bulb became associated with each other.
But for those of us who do not need to avoid it, garlic is quite healthy! It’s rich in antioxidants and a variety of compounds beneficial to our cardiovascular systems. We’ve known this for a long time. In fact, it’s mentioned in Chinese texts dating as early as 3000 BC.
Garlic is found in two subspecies; hardneck and softneck. Hardneck produces elongated (and edible!) flower stalks called scapes and bulbils at the top of the stalk. Unfortunately, only the softneck types can be braided after harvesting. Both types have their advantages and disadvantages over the other.
Thankfully, garlic is easy to grow, both in the ground and in raised beds or containers. As long as the soil is 6.0–6.5 pH and contains lots of organic matter, and no weeds, garlic is happy. Garlic, like asparagus, doesn’t like competition for nutrients and water. So if you decide to grow it, remember to keep it well weeded. Garlic is happiest when grown after a cover crop of buckwheat or rye. This will provide the soil with organic matter, weed control and will discourage pests.
No matter what you grow it in, garlic should be planted in the fall, when the bulbs have time to develop a healthy root system but late enough so shoots that do emerge above the dirt will not get very tall prior to the onset of cold weather. When you do see shoots, it’s best to cover them with 2–4 inches of straw mulch. This will protect them from frost damage and preserve moisture. To have good-sized bulbs, garlic needs a steady supply of water throughout the growing season, up to 1 inch during dry periods. To discourage bulb diseases, it’s wise to avoid irrigating garlic after the driest months.
(You’ll want to research optimum growing procedures in your part of the world, of course).
Garlic is harvestable when 40–60% of the leaves have yellowed. In North America, most varieties are ready by mid-July, but again, research harvest times for your part of the world. Garlic can be eaten right after harvest unless you want to store them long-term. In that case, freshly-harvested garlic can be cured by setting them on racks out of the weather and sun. Choose somewhere that is 32–35 degrees Fahrenheit and has 65–75% humidity. When the outer 2 leaves are dry, the bulbs can be stored in a cardboard box or burlap bag. Something that “breathes”. Of course, braiding the tops and hanging is both a terrific drying and storage method, but as I’ve said before, can only be done with softneck types.
You can grow garlic greens indoors, but if you want traditional cloves, those must be grown outside. The greens, if you want to give those a try, are delicious as a seasoning in soups or stews. They’re described as being “lighter” than fresh garlic. Once you trim the green, the clove is exhausted and will grow no more. Many people do this by taking a clove of grocery-store garlic, waiting until it produces a green shoot, and then planting it in a small pot on a sunny window sill.
However you decide to grow it, unless you’re a vampire, you’ll enjoy tasty, healthy food and the satisfaction of growing some of what you eat. And that’s a kind of satisfaction only we gardeners understand!
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