Member-only story
Live To Write…
Write to Live.
I went to Hawaii a while ago. It was so interesting for me to see firsthand the surfing culture present in that special warm place. I was not a surfer as I lived inland by about 700 miles or so. I also didn’t live near any lakes of any size so, although I love water and water sports, being near an ocean was always a rare event for me.
So, yes, I loved my trip to the tropical islands of Hawaii. I would drift in and out of surf shops just to see the boards and other surfing paraphernalia. Perhaps what was more interesting for me was the people that hung around those shops. I was like a curious observer at an aquarium. The way the surfer dudes talked, the way they dressed, the way they moved — it was all so fascinating to me. I even bought a chunk of surfboard wax, even though I did not own a board and probably never would. I just wanted to be a part of the culture, I suppose.
I had remembered seeing a T-Shirt long ago before I went on my Hawaiian adventure, that said…
“Live to Surf,
Surf to Live.”— Unknown
I thought it was kind of a dumb saying. Ok, so perhaps it meant that you liked to surf and that you really loved it, and maybe that you really got a lot out of surfing.
