Gratitude

I rolled over with sleep dust in my eyes and squinted at my watch, it was 5.40am. Time to get up. It’s been two weeks since I got slammed into Bingin reef and today was to be my first day in the water since then. I noticed a message from my mate “It’s raining outside :( ”. Given my current itch to surf this was not going to stop me, not today at least. I donned my trusted boardies, that have started to fade into a lighter blue, and my gold rain coat to check the surf out. As predicted the conditions weren’t great, but still fun with 2–3 foot sets coming in and with the water being warm, who was I to say no. I readied my board and headed to the beach, did my ritual and began the paddle out. The paddle out was easy and I caught my first 2 waves with effortless ease! It felt like I hadn’t been out of the water, haha, easy now humility is a great ally! The sun began to rise, caressing the clouds with her golden rays . This brought me to a moment of thank you. My gratitude list began, thank you for this body that allows me to surf, walk, run, jump, I would say fly but I don’t think my wipe out at Bingin counts as flying but it’s pretty close, thank you to the beautiful people who inspire me and lift me up when I am down, thank you for my job that sustains me and allows me to be here now, thank you for my mind that thinks the thoughts it does, thank you to my parents who were brave enough to bring me into this world, thank you to my girlfriend who puts up with all my shit, thank you to all the farmers and merchants at the local markets who give me food to eat, thank you for allowing this day to arrive without a volcanoe erupting and ruining my surf break, thank you, thank you, thank you! It’s great to be alive.