Beyond the Beaches of Barbados and Antigua: A Journey of Curiosity and Discovery
Following on from my exploration of Egypt and Jordan, where I had the pleasure of a personal driver, guide, and assistant, I wanted to experience Barbados and Antigua differently, and so opted to travel independently. Through my immersive explorations, I’ve gained insights that enable me to craft extraordinary bespoke trips, offering you the chance to discover these timeless islands in a fresh and exciting way, without the fear of missing out! Join me as I reveal the secrets to an unforgettable week in each country.
Arriving in Barbados I dived straight into local life, taking the collective bus from the airport to Oistins, a lively fishing town on the southern coast known for its vibrant atmosphere and abundance of fresh seafood. On arrival, I met a former work colleague, Katie, and we headed straight for the famous Friday night Fish Fry, where we indulged in dishes such as rice and peas, macaroni pie, and the local specialty, mahi-mahi. We also enjoyed the endless versatility of the native breadfruit, which can be fried into chips or crushed into cou-cou, a variation on cornmeal bread. Sipping on beers, and later, rum punches, we soaked up the lively atmosphere and mingled with locals in the spirit of a flamboyant street party. For a more serene experience, try visiting on a Saturday when things are much quieter. Afterwards, we danced to live music at Carib Bar, a popular local spot that encapsulates the Caribbean charm and boasts spectacular views of dazzling Worthing Beach.
For a relaxed first day, begin with a refreshing swim in the warm, clear waters of Miami Beach before lounging at Deia Beach’s fabulous beach club. Stay on the pristine white sands until sunset, then head to the beach club’s Tiki bar for an expertly crafted cocktail and the perfect ambiance to enjoy the gorgeous ocean sunset. In the evening, head to the lively Worthing Square, peruse the numerous food trucks serving delicious dishes and join the locals in enjoying the party atmosphere as a DJ or maybe some live music soundtracks your evening. For something more sophisticated, sit down to a sumptuous and authentic Caribbean feast at Champers Restaurant, where the delicate candlelight bounces off the gentle Caribbean waves.
If you prefer a more energetic start to your holiday, rise early and head to Aquatic Gap to witness the enchanting sight of racehorses being washed in the sea. Choose to take a ride on the horses in the water as the morning light casts a wonderful glow across the beach– a truly unforgettable experience.
With a much-needed coffee in hand (purchased from a charming stand nearby), take a stroll around the horse racing track at Garrison Savannah, which has been in use since the 19th century. From there, explore the George Washington House, discovering the influence his two-month stay in Barbados in 1751 had on the future founding father of America. If you’re feeling more adventurous, head underground to the mysterious Garrison Tunnels, 10,000 feet of underground passages, dating back to the 1820s, running beneath the house.
For lunch, take a trip to Speightstown and pick from a selection of rustic and chic beach shacks, all offering a variety of refreshments: My top tip is the newly opened Caboose, which serves up exquisite fish sandwiches and a remarkable rum punch– well worth the walk further along the beachfront.
In Bridgetown, embark on a unique food tour that blends historical insights with culinary delights. Starting at Independence Square, by the statue of Errol Walton Barrow, cross the bridge to the Parliament building, which houses the Senate and House of Assembly, and go inside to see the stunning stained-glass window. At a local bakery, sample coconut bread with lashings of butter and a perfectly brewed cup of tea. Continue to the Synagogue Historic District and uncover the history of the Sephardic Jews who settled here in 1628, fleeing Spain and Portugal.
As you wander the vibrant back streets of this historic center, stop for local delicacies like macaroni salad at a hole-in-the-wall spot, or pause at the local market to try sorrel juice, which I guarantee will surpass any mulled wine you’ve ever tasted! End your tour with a sweet treat from Agapey, which serves to-die-for craft ice cream made from coconut milk.
No trip to an island is complete without spending some time at sea. During a luxury catamaran tour, I spent an idyllic day with a small group of fellow travelers in the calm waters of the West Coast, as the crew attended to our every need. Stop first at Folkestone Marine Park, right by the Sandpiper Hotel, where, if you are lucky, you can swim among turtles and encounter majestic sting rays.
Feeling like a true explorer, uncover a shipwrecked tanker at Carlisle Bay before enjoying lunch anchored just off the legendary Sandy Lane Hotel and a dip in their crystal-clear waters. It’s a truly blissful experience and for added luxury, hire the boat privately and explore the waters via kayak or SUP, or dive to 140ft aboard the Atlantis Submarine to get closer than ever to the dazzling coral reef. During this incredible day, I met and connected with a couple aboard the submarine; the encounter reminded me of the importance of cherishing life’s precious moments and forging connections with different people and cultures around the world.
Once docked, stay to explore the colorful harbor area north of Bridgetown, stopping by Rihanna’s childhood home to see where the singer used to ride her bicycle on the newly named Rihanna Drive. Cricket fans should definitely visit the Kensington Oval, Barbados’s oldest cricket ground; and at Mount Gay Distillery, learn the secrets behind their 300-year-old rum through an immersive cocktail workshop. For dinner, La Cabane offers stunning beachfront views, beautiful photo opportunities, and an exquisite menu– try the ceviche and tuna tartare alongside a glass of crisp white wine.
Spend a relaxed morning exploring St Nicholas Abbey, a Jacobean Great House built in 1658 that has been beautifully restored and offers tours of the house, gardens, museum, factory, and distillery. The house itself is an architectural gem, merging the styles of Elizabethan England with the Renaissance, and stunning interiors that transport you right back to the 17th century. Take the steam train around the plantation to encounter colorful birdlife, before disembarking at Cherry Tree Hill for breathtaking views of the rugged east coast. I was fortunate to share lunch with the owner, Simon, before indulging in a rum tasting of their special aged rums.
In the afternoon, seek serenity in Hunte’s Gardens as you surround yourself with nature. Follow easy-to-walk paths lined with vibrant colors and textures of exotic plants, from the purple lily to the heliconia, and take a seat under the canopies to breathe in the floral fragrances and take a moment of calm reflection.
After all that exploring, it was time to get some rest. My top recommendation is the Sandpiper Hotel, where you can stroll along the sands of the West Coast with the turquoise waters gently lapping at your feet, before retreating to your idyllic suite, decorated in a modern way while capturing the charm of Barbados. Another charming boutique hotel is Cobblers Cove, which features gorgeous gardens and a delightful pink theme throughout. From charming to romantic: retreat to Sandy Lane for plantation-style rooms with private balconies where you can sip a glass of wine overlooking the sprawling gardens or the crystal-clear waters of the ocean.
With spacious rooms and a variety of sports and activities, Coral Reef Resort is ideal for families — plus, it has an amazing spa. Little Arches Boutique Hotel is tucked away by Miami Beach and, with just ten rooms, is the perfect adults-only retreat; their award-winning rooftop restaurant, Cafe Luna, is perfect for a romantic dining experience or a delicious leisurely lunch. The hotel manager, Emma, provided me with so many insider tips I knew I wasn’t going to miss a thing on this island — so now, neither will you.
Bathsheba is the perfect place to round off your time in Barbados. Although the island is relatively small, it is well worth staying here to truly get to know the welcoming locals and explore the area’s astounding natural beauty. The Eco Lifestyle & Lodge puts sustainability at the center of everything, from the up-cycled furniture in each room to the locally sourced ingredients used for its menus and rum punch masterclass. Rise early to watch the locals setting up their stalls for the day on Tent Bay before following the old train tracks as you take the picturesque hike from Bathsheba to Belleplaine; the beautiful landscapes are rewarding enough, but the views from the top are just breathtaking.
Hike back or take a transfer, relaxing at the lodge before strolling to the Atlantis Historic Hotel, a family-owned hotel in a beautiful 19th-century building that houses a wonderful collection of old photos telling the story of Barbados, and features bedrooms that let the beautiful vistas truly sing.
With its beautiful beaches, lush tropical forests, and delicious cuisine, Antigua an Barbuda makes the perfect pairing with Barbados. Just a short flight away, the island is quintessentially Caribbean, with candy-colored villages, welcoming locals, and a fascinating history as a refuge for buccaneers and a harbor for the English during colonial times.
After you touch down, start at Galley Bay Resort’s Gauguin Restaurant & Bar, where you can indulge in a fabulous farm-to-table dinner served beneath the thatched roof of your private cabana as the waves lap at your feet. It is also well worth booking a treatment at their spa, which overlooks the lagoon and is soundtracked by the island’s vibrant birdlife.
At the island idyll of Blue Waters, nestled on its own private bay, relax and embrace the laid-back attitude of the Caribbean amid luxurious rooms and suites steeped in colonial character and Antiguan charm. To truly unwind, stroll through beautiful tropical gardens listening to the delicate rustling of leaves in the wind, or enjoy a massage on the beach as the waves gently lap the shore.
A stay that truly made my trip spectacular was the Great House Antigua, an original, historic plantation house that became the seat of government. Kayak out among the surrounding mangroves and then catch the sunset from the porch of your luxurious cabana, Carib beer in hand.
From there head to the white sands and turquoise waters of nearby Long Bay Beach, the perfect place for snorkeling or simply relaxing. Wander down to the west end of the beachfront, to pick up a charming souvenir from locals selling their wares in quaint kiosks. For the best snorkeling, you cannot beat Cades Reef where, if you’re lucky, you might catch a glimpse of turtles and eagle rays amongst the dazzling schools of fish. Curtain Bluff offers a wonderful snorkeling experience at this reef, as well as the perfect family resort with numerous activities on offer, from tennis to watersports.
From here travel to English Harbor along the scenic Fig Tree Drive through dense rainforests full of mangoes, pineapples, bananas, and figs, passing charming churches and colorful villages — perfect if you are keen to connect with local culture. The Inn at English Harbour embodies the timeless luxury of its colonial history, while providing the height of contemporary comfort. The storied building features exposed brickwork, which encases an atmospheric lobby alongside a beautiful bar, lounge, and restaurant. The sumptuous bedrooms and suites are situated in iconic white wooden cottages dotted throughout the gardens, all opening up to the pristine, powdery sands of Galleon Beach.
Feeling rejuvenated, discover the history of the island with a visit to Betty’s Hope, which sits atop a quiet hill near Long Bay Beach. Gaze up at the recently restored sugar mill tower as you learn how steam power transformed sugar production in the 18th century, as well as how the plantation made use of railways to modernize. At the ruins of the distillery, discover the role of rum in sugar plantations and see the remains of the still house where the liquor would be fermented, distilled, and then stored in barrels.
Compliment your tour with a visit to the Museum of Antigua in St John’s, which details the importance of sugar plantations in Antiguan history and will put you on the trail of the 112 mill towers still standing on the island. To immerse yourself in local life, head to St John’s food market and forage for exotic local produce such as sorrel, black pineapples, and sugar apples. On Friday and Saturday mornings, the market spills onto the streets, making it the perfect place to people-watch and connect with Antigua’s culture — a wonderful and authentic way to finish my trip.
From exploring the food market in Antigua to going off the beaten path in Bathsheba, Barbados, this trip reminded me what traveling is all about: connecting with people and places in new and deeper ways. I can’t wait to plan a trip like this for you.
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