Buenos Aires: The Colors and Cultures of a Migrant’s City
Hi, I’m Anna Mascaro, Founder and Director of Tailored Journeys at Terracotta Travel, the only bespoke couture tour operator of its kind.
As a global explorer with over a decade of experience in the travel industry, I’m here to reinvent the luxury travel industry by taking customization and personalization to the next level. Nobody can afford to have a bad holiday, and that’s why I’ve personally stayed in over 500 hotels in 60+ countries across 5 continents, to tailor unique trips for my clients.
Traveling to Argentina in 2022, Jenna Young, our travel writer, and I were captivated by the city’s vibrant blend of European and Latin American influences in its architecture, music, and cuisine. In this blog post, we’ll be sharing our firsthand experience of this captivating destination, from strolling along the cobblestone streets of San Telmo to immersing ourselves in the vibrant art scene, Buenos Aires is a city that truly has it all.
Join us as we explore the beauty and charm of Buenos Aires, and discover why it’s a top destination for any traveler seeking an unforgettable cultural experience.
From Spanish Conquest to Cultural Marvel: The Fascinating Journey of Buenos Aires
Amongst South America’s vast plains and pampas grass, Buenos Aires began to blossom in 1580 when Spanish conquistadors subdued indigenous tribes. By 1816, Argentina had gained independence from Spanish rule, and with great wealth accumulating from land and trading, European settlers envisioned a city that would rival the beauty and grandeur of Paris. They created a stunning cityscape during the 19th and 20th centuries, featuring wide streets, breathtaking palaces, and lush parks, propelling the new metropolis onto the world stage. Concurrently, poor immigrant communities thrived, drawn to the promise of a new land in the Americas. Their determination to survive and build new lives created a hotbed of passion that overflowed throughout the city, imbuing it with a heady mix of edginess, magnificence, and unique character.
A Tale of Love, Betrayal, and Architectural Splendor in Retiro
Starting with the city’s exquisite Parisian style and neoclassical architecture, we explored the upscale neighborhoods of Palermo and Retiro. Palermo’s tree-lined boulevards, pretty plazas, and open green spaces, including the Botanical Gardens, were designed by renowned French architect Carlos Thays. The other salubrious neighborhood is Retiro, where you can find grandiose mansions that have been transformed into high-end shops and exclusive hotels. The leafy streets are also adorned with former French palaces, adding an extra dose of elegance. For a particularly picturesque stroll, we recommend Arroyo Street, which exudes a European vibe, while Avenida Alvear ranks among the world’s top five most distinguished avenues.
We had the pleasure of exploring these lush neighborhoods with Stella, a lifelong Buenos Aires resident brimming with fun, enthusiasm, and insider tales.
Our first stop was Evita’s Garden in Palermo: this beautiful oasis was once owned by Eva Perón, one of Argentina’s most famous historical figures. The garden is open to the public and is brimming with a huge variety of plants and flowers, as well as a small museum dedicated to Evita’s life and legacy as a politician, activist, actress, and philanthropist.
In Retiro, we visited San Martín Palace, built in 1905 by the wealthy aristocrat Mercedes Castellano des de Anchorena. One side of the palace features an ornate balcony positioned for Mercedes to watch services at the nearby Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento, an impressive church she commissioned to replicate her former Parisian place of worship. However, according to Stella’s lively account, Mercedes lost her cherished view after forbidding her son to marry the daughter of nearby landowning Irish immigrants, out of sheer snobbery.
Heartbroken and scorned, Corina Kavanagh, who owned hundreds of acres of land in the area, erected an immense tower block that directly blocked Mercedes’ view of the Basilica. An entertaining story that demonstrates the wealth and influence of those who shaped Buenos Aires, as well as the aesthetic brilliance they brought to the city (excluding Corina’s vengeful tower block!)
La Boca: A Kaleidoscope of Colors, Sculptures, and Football Fever
The contrast between the upscale lifestyle of the aristocrats and the lower-class population is stark. An estimated 1.2 million impoverished immigrants arrived between 1880 and 1930 and settled into the multicultural slums adjacent to the port, known as La Boca, meaning “the mouth.” As you approach La Boca, the transition from French chic to Latin American vibrancy is striking, with white mansions giving way to bright colors and kitschy murals, street stalls and boisterous cafes, and sultry tango dancers weaving through tables.
The iconic multi-colored houses with corrugated metal facades along Caminito Street were thrown up in a desperate bid to create homes, cheerfully painted to detract from the hardship of the slums, and have miraculously survived the century to become protected buildings. Caminito is also a hub for artists displaying their work, with their colorful paintings adding life to La Boca. Life-size sculptures, mostly executed with a little amateurishness, of famous figures such as Che Guevara, Eva Peron, and Maradona animate the various balconies and add to the whimsical atmosphere.
Football is an omnipresent force in La Boca, with team colors adorning every corner. As a proud Swede with Spanish heritage, I couldn’t help but feel a surge of excitement when my guide Stella revealed the fascinating connection between my homeland and the vibrant world of football in La Boca. It turns out that the founders of Boca Juniors impulsively chose yellow and blue for the team according to the flag of whichever ship docked next, which happened to be Swedish!
Murals along the walls of the Boca Stadium depict the arrival and early life of Italian immigrants in Buenos Aires, from their perilous boat passage to the persistent fires that ravaged the wooden housing blocks. We stopped for a coffee at La Perla, the oldest bar in Argentina, established in 1882. The walls are filled with photographs of famous and not-so-famous patrons, documenting the district’s history.
La Boca oozes with passion and vibrancy and even though it’s crammed with tourist trappings, the soul that was created out of hardship and longing still pulses through its lively streets.
Recoleta’s Cultural Tapestry: From Museums to Artisans Market
Someone who captured La Boca’s life is the artist Quincella Martin (1890–1977). He simply painted what he saw, good or bad, conveying the endless vigor and roughness of daily life in the port. Martin’s style was widely appreciated, from the locals he portrayed to the elite art world, and he is considered one of Argentina’s founders of modern art.
Art is prominent in Buenos Aires, and to immerse ourselves in the city’s vibrant art scene, we met Victoria, a skilled art student and city guide. We visited Museo Moderno, housed in a striking red brick building once a tobacco factory. The gallery is perfect in size, and its exhibits flow seamlessly from one era of modern art to the next. The museum showcases works by pioneering Argentine artists, including numerous abstract pieces, and Victoria’s interpretations and insights added an enlightening dimension.
Our next art encounter was more hands-on at the Recoleta Cultural Center, a social enterprise that encourages art among young people and throughout the community. The Center features everything from exhibits by revered artists to elementary school projects. One of the most captivating exhibits was a fantastical underwater world with twinkling lights, swimming fish, and a mermaid! Moving from one fantasy space to another, the Center’s sublime rooftop terrace with bar, live DJs, and sweeping city views to match the ultra-cool urban vibe is an exhibit in itself.
Near the Cultural Center is Recoleta’s Artisans Market where you’ll find an abundance of unique handicrafts, including ceramics, jewelry, leather goods, and textiles, crafted by local artisans. It opens on weekends and holidays, making it the perfect marketplace for acquiring unique souvenirs and gifts for friends and family back home. Jenna and I even found the perfect memento there — matte cups that captured the essence of our Argentina trip.
Exploring Buenos Aires’ Food Truck Scene
By now we were feeling a little hungry and the aroma of sizzling Choripan filled the air, luring us towards the local food trucks. Choripan, a beloved Argentine street food, is a ubiquitous delight in Buenos Aires. This scrumptious sandwich made with grilled chorizo sausage, chimichurri sauce, and salad was truly one of the most satisfying sandwiches we’ve ever eaten! Some of the best choripan trucks can be found in La Boca and Puerto Madero — we stopped at one alongside the Ecological Reserve, which Stella assures us is the best Choripan truck in town.
San Telmo: Where Tradition Meets Eccentricity in Buenos Aires
San Telmo is perhaps the most prominent example of cultural collision, and it was undoubtedly our favorite spot in Buenos Aires. We explored the barrio with Stella on market day, Sunday, and every inch of the place was bustling with stalls stretching as far as the eye could see. With some gentle persuasion, we tore ourselves away from all those delightful trinkets and followed Stella to the district’s epicenter, San Telmo Market.
Housed in a beautiful Italian-style building and open all week since 1897, this is where the city’s trends come from. Stepping through a small side gate, we entered a sea of people, paintings, fairy lights, hipster shops, food counters, and antiques, with fresh fruit and veg stalls adding intense color to the whole scene. Around every table, brimming with enticing dishes and chilled beers, groups of friends and families gathered, creating an energetic buzz that reverberated beneath the expansive glass ceiling. After squeezing our way through the crowds, we managed to get a coffee and take some time to absorb the tingling cacophony.
Afterwards, we visited a magnificent three-story mansion, its entrance discreetly nestled among a row of unassuming doorways. Once the home of an aristocratic family, they fled the city to escape the 1930s yellow fever outbreak, abandoning the mansion and all its contents. Now, it houses a collection of quaint shops, with a backdrop of beautiful tiled flooring, ornate balustrades, and pretty archways.
The mass exodus of the rich was prevalent throughout San Telmo, allowing poor families, artists, and musicians to move into the abandoned properties, creating an eclectic and eccentric community. The once prized possessions of the wealthy, meticulously curated and collected, many of which still circulate the market today, were sold for food and basic necessities.
Walking the streets of San Telmo is like stepping into an eclectic melting pot of the weird, wonderful, and downright wacky. From a headless street performer playing a saw like a fiddle to one-man bands and countless human statues, the neighborhood's effervescent outdoor theater never fails to entertain. This vibrant community evolved from a collision of cultures, providing marginalized communities with a new setting and a reprieve from the slums.
Tracing Jewish Roots: Exploring Buenos Aires’ Rich Jewish Heritage
Buenos Aires is also home to a thriving Jewish community — the third largest in the world after the USA and Israel. The city is full of synagogues, Jewish schools, kosher restaurants, museums, and other institutions that reflect the community’s rich culture. Delve into Buenos Aires Jewish heritage and culture on a private tour with a guide from the community who will introduce you to bustling Jewish neighborhoods as well as local families and community leaders. For a unique souvenir, visit Silvia and Mario, a family-owned business prominent in the Jewish community that specializes in handcrafted leather goods. With so much to offer, Buenos Aires is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in Jewish culture and heritage.
Tango Magic: Tracing the Evolution of Buenos Aires’ Seductive Dance
Of course, no trip to Buenos Aires is complete without some, dah-dah-da-dah-da, Tango! La Boca is often credited as being the birthplace of this steamy dance style. In the overcrowded dwellings, people sought entertainment from the resident musicians, singers, dancers, and whatever instruments came to hand. One such instrument was an African drum which accompanied some of the 18,000 Africans brought over as slaves, and the skins of those drums were known as tango. Ancestral African beats soon combined with classical and Andalusian compositions, and the innate dancing, laced with desire, rippled through the community and developed into the world-famous Tango.
To witness the beautiful, sultry tango, we headed down a little cobbled lane in San Telmo — as the driver opened the door and we stepped inside, we were transported to the bygone era of the roaring Twenties. With a glass of Malbec in hand, the dancers’ contortions and pirouettes traced the evolution of tango, from its roots in the impoverished slums to the seductive allure of an iconic red tango dress, transitioning from the stage to the bar-top, starting barefoot and ending in glittering heels. Soulful singing was interspersed throughout, adding to the enchantment of a truly iconic performance.
Terracotta Travel’s exclusive tango show, accompanied by a personal driver and a delicious dinner, promises an enchanting experience where you’ll be transported to a world of romance and excitement.
Experience Buenos Aires: Your Unforgettable Journey Begins Here
Buenos Aires is a stunning and diverse city, with everything from quirky street performers to exquisite opera performances (where you can even take a behind-the-scenes tour of the costumes and stage sets at the Fabrica Colon Museum). Here, football fans also follow polo matches and immaculate French-style streets lead to a sprawling 350-hectare nature reserve that spills into the city’s eastern side. Traveling through Argentina, one can’t help but feel how young the country is, apart from the history of its indigenous people. It’s as if Argentines took time to choose their identity, and they now pride themselves on being friendly, food-loving, and sociable. The capital city embodies all of these traits, and from its early settlers to the waves of immigration, Buenos Aires is a true kaleidoscope of cultures and colors.
La Faena Hotel: Where Old-World Glamour Meets Contemporary Luxury
When it comes to accommodations, La Faena Hotel stands out with its bold, eclectic style that seamlessly blends old-world glamor and contemporary design. The deep, rich red velvet that dominates the property exudes a sense of luxury and sophistication. As you step into the lobby, you’ll be captivated by a stunning chandelier crafted from over 400 suspended golden horns and a dramatic red velvet curtain that elegantly separates the public areas from the rest of the hotel. Escape the city’s bustle and retreat to the oasis of La Faena’s pool area, where the red-tiled pool is surrounded by plush loungers and palm trees, creating a tropical ambiance unique to Buenos Aires. Take a dip, sip on refreshing cocktails, and savor light bites at the adjacent pool bar — a perfect sanctuary to unwind and bask in the sun.
